Clegg78

Funny enough my dealer when they installed the new switch, the new switch had the 2nd switch broken inside that that Cruise Control looks at... dealer told me it would take 2 months to get the right switch in to replace it again... $70 on Partzilla later and I fixed it myself. Expensive recall, and a PITA. That was about a year ago and I think they are still waiting on the switch or they never called me at least. (Reason #158 I will do everything I can myself and shun dealerships service deps.)

I rode the bike for the first time since getting the valves shimmed and valve bodies synchronized, new plugs, and maybe placebo, but the bike feels feisty and smooth. Happy no leaks found. Got home and put a new DID VX3 gold chain on the bike and new front sprocket. My order of new front and rear locknuts for the sprockets looks like it tore open in transit... I ended up with one rear sprocket nut... So going to see if any dealers are open tomorrow to get them, then I can finish and put the rear sprocket on. Then the hardware part of the work on the bike. Then just need to change the oil and good to go for many miles.

And it lives, got the cooling system back on filled, and fired right up. Let it come to temp, and nothing odd, the engine sounds good (it did before as well), now onto syncing the throttle bodies, then to replacing the chain/sprockets.

I am looking to pick up a new side panel as I accidentally scraped the crap out of one of mine by dropping something on it. B5C-21711-00-P2 is the number, and since the 9GT came in only one color in 2019 in the US I am curious if this part comes painted? Anyone know?

Fair, this is about $1 in material and 30 minutes of print time And unlike pliers I can easily rotate both cam sprockets with one hand.

Posted the cam tool wrench: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5862747

Whelp - valve adjustment done. All intakes are now at .15+ Exhaust is also OK... not perfect, I am not sure what happened- 2 valves are on the tight side of the margin .25++ but not quite .28 ( could probably get the .28 through if I forced it). The rest are .28 or +. I second guessed my writing on my initial checks I think and read a .23 as .20, kicking myself, I wanted them all at .28. But it's all in spec it will be fine till the next check. I did find the ProX shims to be quite wild in their variance. Ended up using some of the Hot Cams shims in place. It's still in spec and FAR better than it was... Reassembly was easy. I love the Permatex assembly lube. (Only mess up on reassembly was forgetting to put the chain on the cams before bolting them in and not being able to get it past the not on the cam sprocket. Timing was relatively easy to get set, initially I was off a tooth overall on the crank side. I designed 2 wrenches to let me adjust the timing easily by rotating both sprockets at the same time. Using the Zip Tie method that the video above used to then hold the chain on the sprocket. The tool to the left is the new design I ended up settling on, if you print 2 of that that's all you need. you can hold both with one hand to offload the stress on the chain and then zip tie them in place with the other. I'll get the part posted to download in the coming days. Now onto getting the cooling system installed and refilled. Then balancing the throttle bodies.

Just ordered some shims I am going to be flush with them by end of the week! the video series above is great, I was curious about the cam tool to rotate against the exhaust valve springs loading and just bought one on Ebay to keep things simple. The CCT looks like it is going to be an event, seems a good bit more complex than my Triumph was!

Like most - For the valve adjustment at 20K miles - all exhaust valves were tight, most were a bit under the lower part of the tolerance band, with one being dangerously tight (like .16mm) All the intake valves were in spec with 2 of them on the tighter side of the tolerance, going to try and fix that... hard when the increments for 7.48mm valves is half the tolerance band! Now I wait for shims to get delivered, but I may call around seeing if anyone has any odd sizes as the closest thing I can get for the one of the exhaust put it .303 which is marginally too much gap, but also a bit off from the rest of the exhaust valves. Plugs looked great for 20K miles. Replaced them anyway, the gaps were even in band so very little erosion or anything. My one screw up is I forgot to take a picture of the cams before releasing the cam tensioner and I am pretty sure one of them rotated a bit... so I just gotta spend some time ensuring timing is right.

Bigger issue I had was getting the cam tensioner out with the givi bars on, so I removed them from both sides. And since I am draining cooling system and refilling, it was easier to remove the radiator than keep it on.

Yeah... and I think the actual effect of that 3K would be some different sound and minimal performance. Where spending 3K on suspension and tires... thats a real upgrade!

I live in a very mountainous area, and I actually like the engine braking a bit on the downhills so I don't need to ride the brakes much but it would be nice on the twisties to have a smooth off/on transition. An yeah I would be all into a change of exhaust but not sure there is a huge benefit since I want to keep it quiet or close to stock noise, and keep the cat... cause... you know... smelling like a refinery after a long ride sucks (that and increasing the emissions on a 900cc bike to the level of an il tuned 1980's V8 in a F150 isn't awesome)

Thanks for the insight! I've been curious if its less needed on the newer models

Stock its a huge improvement? because yeah I find the Tracer 900 GT (2019) to be pretty good stock. Not sure $350 is worth it just to get more cruise control speed options.

ahh yeah I guess there are some highlights, I was looking at the manual a bit on a Kindle last time I did work and ... that was all Black and white, so I never really noticed. I can highlight those sections... with my imagination I guess

Yeah I bought through a suspension specialist who did the setup for me (and ordered based on my weight). Most of my settings are right in the middle of the band after setting everything up so a LOT of adjustment left. Only thing I had to tweak after the initial install was the preload collar, to move it down just a tad because I got fat and needed a bit more for long rides with the bike loaded up.

I did a bit of weigh reduction on the bike today Biggest PITA was draining the tank a bit, it was full and I didn't want to deal with moving it around like that... and my gas pump failed so there was a bit of a mess using a vacuum pump to start a siphon. Tomorrow, I drain the coolant, and remove the radiator (since I am doing the valves and coolant no reason to keep the radiator strapped to the front for the whole ordeal. ), and start checking valves, and doing the plugs. A minor PITA, but the Givi crash bars block the opening to turn the engine over for the valve job.

I have only experience with the stock and the Ohlins YA537/NIX30 combo on the bike, and I can tell you going to a proper front and rear suspension upgrade is massive... the bike is so stable and consistent. Worth every penny.

Hey there, I am in the middle of tearing the bike down for a bunch of maintenance (Oil, Coolant, Air Filter, Valve check, Sprockets, Chain, Plugs, etc...) While the bike is open, the ECU is out and able to be shipped easily. Curious if anyone knows (and I can call Ivans on Monday as well to check) Is the ECU reflash worth it on a completely stock bike? Keeping the stock filter, exhaust, plugs... (the chassis has upgrades with Ohlins all around but that's not relevant) I do like some of the features of his flash. Just curious if anyone here has had his work done on a stock ride.

ahh yeah 2 pages at the back are color, I have those printed out already.... I will say the quality of the graphic in the Yamaha PDF is lacking compared to other MFGs, but it works I guess.

The funny thing about "color" is that the only color part of the manual in PDF form (from Yamaha!) is the cover

So, I put a shackle into a stud above where I work on the bike and use some ratchet straps the handlebars, and use the center stand. I've done a few wheel swaps this way and a full suspension swap easily. Its stable enough if you aren't a mad man around the bike And clearly you need to be aware of balance, so it doesn't rock backwards. But it works for me

In prep to do a lot of work on the bike (Chain, Sprockets, Air filter, Plugs, Coolant, Valve check/Adjustment, Oil/Filter) and a few other things like lubricating various parts... I took my PDF of the service manual and sent it over to FedEx office to be printed, bound and then I tagged the chapters. I've found printed manuals FAR better when doing the actual work than going to a laptop or iPad for the info. Expensive though, since the manual is damn huge, $100 to get the manual done this way (its 300+ pages long, double sided!) yes,I know there are cheaper options on Ebay in 3 Ring binders, or printing it myself and binding it... I've found this to just be easier and I am busy. For coolant I just grabbed some of the Honda Motorcycle coolant, the local shop had a bunch of it and I know it's safe for these engines. Kept the stock gearing as I like it for the new sprockets. Keeping the OEM stock filters and not going to one of the fancy K&N style ones... the hassle of opening the bike to swap a filter, I'll just keep swapping the stock ones.

I am lining up to do a bit 20K bit of maintenance on the tracer, and one of the bits is the coolant. What is everyone using? I see the Yamacool stuff kind of hit/miss on being able to find it. there are a ton of valid options, so I was curious what ya'll were going with.

They all seem to be about a horse a piece between Nitron, K-Tech, and Ohlins at the same spec level. Getting something that is tunable and rebuildable is key. Basic shocks and forks may have limited tuning (Only Rebound, no remote preload, etc...) where teh higher end ones make tuning easy. That YA535 above for a rear shock is about the best out there... rebuildable, has easy compression and rebound adjustments, and remote preload... I love it. the NIX30 forks are good, but really not that much more special than K-Tech, or any other replacement cartridges. You'll also start to learn about suspension tuning once you have those options. If you get it done at a suspension shop, they normally focus on a few brands or only one... so get what the shop you want to go to can build, tune, and maintain. My dude was an Ohlins shop so I just did it all through him. I want to say all up with parts (NIX30/YA535) labor for the install was $2300 (I think... I cant remember TBH). In hindsight the rear shock I could have done myself easily. the forks though I lack some tools for.