Wintersdark

Checked, and no... the T7 pegs are pretty substantially different. The angle is different, the pivot is significantly wider, etc. I'm sure you could make it work with a lot of effort, but meh. Alas. I actually like the stock T7 pegs a lot. They're not good for adv pegs, but they're quite comfortable. Ah well.

For the curious, in this position the rear wheel is about 3" off the ground. The center stand *just barely* clears the lift: For some bikes, if you don't have a center stand, you can continue to tighten the strap between the swingarm and frame and stand the bike up nearly completely vertically, but that's not happening with out center stand. That's not something supported by Abba, mind you, but it's something I've watched videos of people doing successfully. Total front wheel lift in wheelie position. This would be a very effective winter storage solution, as the bike doesn't use any more "footprint" than the lift itself, is quite secure, no wheels on the ground getting flat spots, and it's very easy to move around.

Step 4 - Lift. This is the first of three lock points. Maximum lift.

Step two - Insert the right side brace, lock it in position with the handle set screw at it's base, then use the T handle to apply tension across the swingarm pivot and hold the bike securely. Use the attached allen key to lock the brace in position with the second set screw for extra safety (there are two, because when you tension the t-handle the upright will pivot outwards some because of play inside the "sleeve" at the base of the upright - you want that to move before setting both set screws tightly): Step 3 - This step differs depending on which lift position you want. In this case, for wheelie position, you run the provided strap from the (also provided) swingarm spool to a bobbin in the base of the lift. This allows the rear tire to lift off the ground, but keeps it just a couple inches up and forces the bike to pivot up into wheelie position. Alternatively, you can insert a bar into the body of the lift (note the square hole in the red where the upright and base meet) and strap the rear wheel to that, which will cause the bike to lift level, or finally you can not strap the rear at all, which will lift just the rear end of the bike keeping the front wheel on the ground.

So I've had the Skylift for about a month now, figured I'd do a review and picture show of it's use. As I've said in other discussions, overall it's an extremely good piece of kit. Quick and easy to hook up a bike and lift, lots of options in specifically how you lift. In the following, I'll show lifting in "wheelie" position, but it's very flexible. You can lift with the bike in wheelie position, level, or stoppie position with the rear wheel raised. With a little experience, you can go from the bike on the sidestand to fully lifted in about two minutes without rushing. Step one - holding the bike upright, kickstand and center stand raised. Roll the stand in, and lift or lower the left side swingarm pivot bit with the D-shaped fitting until it fits into the swingarm pivot. You want it a bit low, so the bike leans slightly into the lift. This allows the lift to support the bike without the right side brace in.

@Warchild Man, those adjusters are so, so sexy. Do want. Totally unnecessary but so beautiful.

Honestly, I'm kind of impressed that you managed to bend but not break the stock pegs. I broke both the feelers off mine; felt like they were pretty soft. Those look exactly like T7 footpegs. I wonder if the T7 ones fit? I'm pretty sure I tried that and it didn't work, but... I'd rather run the stock T7 pegs than the rubber topped amazon pegs I have now, and I've got my stock T7 pegs in a box. Maybe I should check that again.

I scrolled past an instagram ad for a polychromatic ("transitions") layer you can stick on your visor too - transparent at night, dims in the sunlight. Dunno how it'll be for optical clarity though; I'm always reluctant to add layers between my eyeballs and what I'm pointing them at. IIRC it was ~$20 or so, so honestly something that would probably be worth trying for the OP.

Can confirm. I've got the Scorpion AT 960, and it's a great helmet. The peak is of course removable but even at high speed it's pretty neutral in terms of catching the air. Well designed to block sun without being a problem. It comes with side covers so if you do want to remove the peak it just looks like a regular sport full face helmet too. Modular portion can lock open so it's safe to ride with it open though I wouldn't, as it's VERY top heavy while open and absolutely does catch air badly too. As you said, it's a modular so a bit louder than a normal full face, but it's significantly quieter than my old modular GMax MD01S. Even with the chin curtain removed (I hate those) it's actually surprisingly quiet for a modular. Newer ECE 0.26 rated too! Edit: The visor and modular face CAN be opened with the peak attached. The peak rotates backwards when the face is opened, and the visor opens directly under the peak. https://www.scorpionusa.com/product/exo-at960-solid/

We can't all be Daffy, rocking our beaks either way with style an panache. The parts out of the back of the front look nice, whereas the parts out of the front of the front look awful and anyone doing that is clearly just wrong and has no taste whatsoever. - No one, ever.

I dunno about improving cooling or anything (and don't really care) but yeah, if it was a garage queen maybe that would be different, but I ride way to often in terrible conditions to even consider that much effort for a very, very short term gain. I mean, mine didn't look that good new ("new" - it had a couple hundred kilometers on it as a demo bike) and after a month and say 1500kms or so it'll just be splotchybronze again If/when my headers come off, they're going in the trash and I'm mounting new ones. Like those that come with that Black Widow tri-oval system I've been eyeballing forever. All that said: Mad respect for how great they look, though. Sweet. Oh, those look awesome. So many times that would have come in really useful, and for $15... There's a new tool in the box right there.

This... I don't know what to feel about this. On one hand, I totally get it, and it's super well executed and all. On the other, it seems deeply wrong on some level But I guess it's not like you can just buy a bigger tank, and the stock range on these is embarrassingly bad, so much so that despite there being factory hardbags, a trip of any distance would be incredibly irritating stopping for gas even 20 minutes. But I'm going to bet that you're right, and that you're the only person on the planet with an MT10 with a 8.3 gallon tank! Mine is exactly the same. It assumes I'm travelling faster than I am, and then calculates my fuel economy too optimistically. I just use the display to judge how I'm riding or if anything has changed, rather than as a specific guide. Strong agree. You recommended these when my Tracer was new, and I've now been through three sets of Superlite sprockets from Sprocket Center over two bikes and yeah. They're amazing. Miles beyond stock sprockets, and very reasonably priced. 1) Oh, my god, that's amazing. That looks better than mine did brand new, by a large margin. 2) That's WAY more effort than I'm gonna put into it. New headers, here I come!

Exactly the problem with the 5's front, and is what the 6's fix. Much more solid feel, better feedback, less vague mushiness requiring constant attention and adjustment. I run 36/42, and am a big chonky boy - 330lbs/150kg or so in gear? In the winter I lower that a bit, 34/38. Which is more "just don't adjust pressure as the temperature drops" than adjust to that, if I'm being honest. Rear likes to be a bit lower to grab better when it's cold.

If it does, and won't restart in gear, try neutral. If it restarts in neutral, but dies when you put it in gear, that's definitely the sidestand switch. If that does happen, you can just cut the wires to the sidestand switch and connect them together to make the bike run and get you home.

I'm in Calgary, so I'm starting from 3425ft ASL, but frequently ride up into the Rockies here (I want to say 4500ft ASL) which while not 11k, is still pretty damn high, as well as down to the coast. In that 0-4500ft range, there's really not an appreciable difference at all. As @bwringer said, EFI != carbs. Your ECU will adjust fueling for altitude. Sure, there's less oxygen to work with, but it won't bog down and get really rich like you would with a carb. You just gradually lose a little oomph which is pretty negligible when considering ~120hp. It's not like the old days of taking a 40hp carbureted bike up a mountain 😃

The rear is about the same (6 vs 5) imho, but the front is substantially improved vs the 5. I find you get much better feedback thanks to the much stiffer sidewalls, particularly on the side of the tire. Also, better wear characteristics. The 4 and 5 fronts tended to wear in a /-\ sort of pattern(think the top of an octagon); flat angled sides, flat top, with a weird pointy transition where the harder center compound meets the softer sides, resulting in fronts that you'd swap out with rears where normally you'd run 2 rears to a front. Of course, it wasn't that bad, because you'd get around 10k out of a set, but still. The Road 6 front is dramatically better. It's a very different tire, and solves what was IMHO the biggest weakness of the Road tire line, at least over the last decade or so - as far as my experience goes. I gave the T32's a run between my Road 5's and 6's, and while I felt the T32 was a good value tire, it wore down WAY faster, and was nowhere near as good in the wet and cold as the 5's, let alone the 6's which get purportedly 10% more wet/cold grip than the 5's. I took mine for a ride in -15C a couple weeks ago, and was genuinely impressed at how much I had to work on it to trigger traction control. And that's my Road 6 fanboying for the day.

Yeah, I suspect a lot of people either don't ride in poor weather or live in dry places where rain isn't super common. Getting that spray up your back and (worst part) up into the back of your helmet then down your neck is the worst. It's awful. So much so that I'm *very* choosey even about tail tidies these days. I appreciate the look a lot, but... ugh. First day when you're on a big motorcycle trip and need to log a whole day riding in rain and you change your mind REAL FAST.

Yep, definitely hollow.

The sidestand doesn't normally trigger the CEL but if it kills the bike at highway speeds *only briefly* while you're still in gear and moving it's entirely possible that the ECU throws a code as it expects the bike to be running except it's not. I'd put money on the sidestand switch being the culprit. Maybe just a one-off because some junk got knocked into it, or maybe it becomes an ongoing problem. If it's one-off who cares, if it happens again though the first step is jumping the switch to see if it happens again without the switch in use. Regardless, I'm definitely curious how this pans out.

As I said, I've got both too. This is something I've rambled on about at length, and while it may be less popular on this specific forum you'll find it's not an uncommon opinion. The CP2 is a more fun engine. It's not a faster engine, but it often *feels* faster. The CP3 is more refined and powerful, but needs to spin up more to make that power and (particularly before the refresh) has kind of a flat spot around 4000-5000rpm. On the other hand, the CP2 hammers the power on *immediately*, giving it a very raw, visceral feel with acceleration being hard and fast. The problem with the CP2 is that it kind of runs out of steam at the high end, and while the CP2 bikes will hit top speeds just a little shy of the CP3, after 100mph the CP2 noticeably lags where the CP3 roars. On the flip side, to get the CP2 experience out of the CP3 you need to rev it up into the 7000-8000rpm range. There, it's a monster, tons of power on tap. But the problem you run in to in town is that with that power and at high rpm you find yourself hitting unusable speeds too fast. Where the CP2 bike can roar off a stop pulling power wheelies gear after gear as you bang through the gears... But not end up going felony speeds.... The CP3 is either in its flat spot (where I'll note it's still very powerful, just not exciting) or accelerating *extremely* rapidly and god I hope there isn't a cop around. So. If you're riding mostly in town, or on windy highways where you're not really exceeding 100mph/160 kph, the CP2 feels gruntier and more exciting. It's simpler, direct cable throttle, no ride modes, traction control, or other degrees of separation between wrist and zoom. Put a short throw throttle tube on it for $20 and it feels almost frenzied. But once you're on highways more often, open roads (winding or otherwise) where being able to put significant power down when you're already moving pretty fast is important, and suddenly everything changes. Or if you want to ride two up, and need more power to overcome the weight. As well, if you ride like a hooligan on both, you'll tend to get better gas mileage out of the cp3 as it gives fewer phucks about wind resistance due to the higher power, whereas after around 120kph/75mph the CP2 becomes very inefficient as too large a percentage of its output is going to just countering drag. This specific point is less relevant for the R7, however.

Lol well not reeeeeeally, they wouldn't interfere with riding but you'd certainly lose them. They just sit kind of loosely in the holes, they don't actually attach to the bike. Was just demonstrating how they fit in. The lift squeezes the two sides together holding those in cups, which allows the bike to pivot for the wheelie/flat/stoppie positions. Max height straight lift: @knyteJust had to push down when releasing the lowering valve to drop it all the way down. Lol.

Here's the Tracer adapters: It's rock solid stable with them.

Hah this is a good point too. All the farkles you put into the bike have zero resale value but if you're going to need to spend that money again farkling the new bike pushes the price up even more. Incremental upgrades at thousands of dollars... eh, that just doesn't really work for me. I know I'd never consider trading my 900GT in for a Tracer 9, and if I'd bought an FJ I wouldn't have considered a Tracer 900. Honestly, around town, I enjoyed my prior bike (2018 MT07) more than the Tracer 900GT. The Tracer is a better bike, but the MT07 was wicked fun and super maneuverable. It just fell down on longer rides, and was pretty small for my 6'4" frame. If I had to choose one for primarily city riding however it would be an MT07 every single time, without a second thought. Interestingly, I bought a Tenere 700 last year, and frankly it too is significantly better to ride around in town than the Tracer is. That CP2 is a delight at low speeds, and it's height (directly in opposition to the OP's ask) is IMHO a huge benefit: I can stand on it and easily see over pickup trucks, and seated I've got clear LOS over cars. Vision is safety riding in a city, you're never surprised by someone obscured by the car in front of you. It's the same weight as the Tracer and taller, so if OP is very small that'd probably be a problem, but frankly the Tenere is an absolute beast of a city bike. Gravel on the road? Who cares. Curbs? Just ride over them. You can put the bike whereever you want, don't need to care about roads at all. I'm a bit of a hooligan on mine

I dunno. Just my opinion of course, this is all very subjective, but I'd argue that the gains are very minor and most aren't relevant for your stated use case (urban commuting) - the electronic suspension, slightly more power, etc. The seat height difference is pretty minor and unless you're having issues getting feet down I don't see it really making a noticable difference. All of which and more are all things that are better with the new T9GT.... But they're all small, too.... And it's a HUGE price difference. I know personally I couldn't justify that spend for such minor gains - again, particularly given your use case. I mean, if seat height is that important to you, why not just lower the existing Tracer and save several thousand dollars?

Looks pretty damn cool though 😃