petshark

Same here. Not worried about it at all. But if is not a common issue and someone knows how to fix it, it's just an excuse to go tinkering

I'm just saying that the suspension tech seemed to find the KYB fork decent quality so that the spring, oil and seal upgrade would result in a good shock. The difference with Ohlins cartridges would only be noticeable on track according to him (that's where he spends most of his time on the Yamaha Racing team). I'm not sure if the standard shock is also ok to do this with. I could be, I just don't know.

I have the Yamaha tank lock and bag which is a rebranded SW Motech. The release mechanism didn't work well at first. I almost couldn't get it off when I pulled in for gas om my way home after buying the bike (second hand). I disassembled the mechanism and found nothing wrong. No dirt, no rough edges, so I sprayed it with silicon lube and it has been working fine ever since. Apart from that rough start I am pretty pleased with it.

I have exactly the same thing on a 900 GT. Perfect start: -cold engine -stop and restart engine immediately -let the engine cool down sufficiently before restarting But when I do a short stop to get gas or buy something upon restarting the engine will often run rough for 20 seconds or until I rev it. My ECU is flashed for performance and it didn't change this problem.

Wait, the 2018 non-GT does not have the TFT dash? That alone is worth it in my book. I consider getting an older bike and the LCD dashes always turns my off. I still like completely analogue but LCD is just so ugly to me now. I know it's very superficial but it is what it is. I've considered buying a 2012 multistrada or an older VFR but when I see that dash I realize I don't want to go back to that. I've done a few test rides with other new bikes and the Tracer 900 GT's TFT in dark mode is one of the best out there. It's just the right size too, don't like the big ones with too much info. The GT has better suspension for sure, it's just still not very good, average at best. The Tracer 9 is the first one with good suspension out of the box. As many people on this forum will tell you, suspension is the best upgrade you can do. Even after saying all the above I think I would still choose the non-GT with Ohlins over the factory GT in a vacuum.

Sorry, I think I made a mistake here.. if you get the non-GT you will not have the upgraded KYB forks that were the basis for the spring upgrade I had done. I'm not sure if the same can be done to the non-GT fork. It doesn't have the compression and rebound screws, right? You might have to get a GT after all

My suspension guy said that for my style of riding (sporty twisty roady) cartridges were overkill. The rear shock had to go but for the front we just did Ohlins springs for my weight, Ohlins oil and SKF seals. It wasn't expensive and I'm really happy with the result. I also went to another suspension tech first and had the stock shock and forks set up for my weight. He ended up lowering the forks in the triple clamps because he didn't like the geometry (too light on the nose). I wasn't satisfied but I'm not saying that the suspension is trash and that everyone should upgrade. It just transforms a very nice bike into a superb bike. I know I said that I would never buy a non-GT but since you' really don't seem to have use for any of the extra's I want to change my vote to non-GT and get a good shock and springs for the front. That's what I would do in your shoes anyway. If the non-GT 2018+ have got the longer swingarm that is (I'm not sure about that)

+1 O2 sensor deleted and disconnected after ECU flash and QS works great.

I definitely recommend the GT and would personally never buy a non-GT if this one is totalled. factory CC, heated grips and QS all are luxuries I don't want to go without. No-one has addressed the shock yet. I have no experience with the Nitron R1 but have considered it while researching the shock upgrade (went for Ohlins in the end). The stock shock on the GT is really not on par with any aftermarket quality shock. It is still a budget part so if you're used to something good you'll likely not be satisfied. GT + ECU flash + suspension upgrade = perfection IMO

So I aligned everything as said and everything looks straight except the nose from the rider position. It's much more obvious now that the forks are better aligned. I'll start a new thread because it doesn't match the title anymore.

So what was the diagnosis?

I agree with everything you say. Wouldn't you also say though that Del is a certain old-school type of mechanic that you often encounter in real life? None of it is very scientific but he makes up for that with rugged charm and confidence. I would go as far as to say that the heuristic approach is not uncommon amongst mechanics. That is my experience at least. It is true that this kind of content can be dangerous. A mechanic has a reputation and liability whereas a YouTube teacher has none. As always the responsibility lies completely with the viewer. It's free information and none of it is guaranteed to be correct. Censoring the peer review system is bad but I imagine constant trolling by 'the workshop' fans could be the reason. On the other hand the workshop video's could have started because there is no other way to dispute Del's advice. Who knows. I like that Del addresses exactly what happened to me as he often does. Dave's video is more generic and I never know how relevant it is to my situation. So it's up to me to piece it all together and ask for a second opinion. Thank you for yours!

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query="the+workshop"+delboy I've heard this a lot from this youtube channel "the workshop" that has many video's dedicated to Delboy supposedly being a moron but there are also some fans on the forum so I gave him the benefit of the doubt. Anything specific that is wrong in this video?

Great video and I am happy to say that I already use these methods. I probably learned this from Dave in an older video. It's not really about twisted forks after a drop though. My question is more about in how many places things can be off and how much you have to loosen than how to do it right. Still much appreciated! Doing the lower triple tree clamps and axle really helped and I'm hoping that there is still some tension caused by things I haven't loosened in my first try. If this method fails I will check if the forks are still straight and so on. I would be surprised if the forks or even the handlebars are bent as the screen and thus the entire nose of the bike took the worst hit (the screen hitting a large wooden crate was the first point of impact). The forks were rebuilt under warranty last november with new Ohlins oil and SKF seals because it developed a small leak after the complete rebuild last summer. There was practically no stiction at after both rebuilds. I'm trying again this weekend and will include brake callipers and mudguard bolts. My dilemma is currently wether to undo the top head bearing nut or not. Can it hurt? Otherwise I'll do it just te be sure that I've tried everything. If that fails I will take the wheel and forks out as per your advise.

Sorry I forgot to link the video

So as some of you may have read I dropped my bike while pushing it up on a motorcycle lift.. I researched and executed the realignment of the forks and it's a lot better but not perfect. I loosened the lower triple tree bolts, axle pinch bolt and axle and pushed down on the forks to realign them. In this video Delboy goes a lot further, loosening the bolts for the mudguard, brake callipers and the nut on top of the steering head. Any advice before I give it another go? Thanks.

That's a pretty good endorsement for the Road 6's. Noted!

Can you read error codes to see which switch or sensor is causing this? If not, I bought this cheap ebay wifi scanner in combination with a free phone app and it seems to read and reset everything but TBH I have not needed it for anything real yet so I don't know if the ECU gives useful info on errors like these.

Did you get the front brake switch replaced under the warranty recall?

Thanks. Yeah, I just put a very small dab around the pin.

I've glued them in and it worked great. Thanks again for the tip! So what happens with this stuff when I remove them? Is it like silicone in the bathroom in that it just peels off (with some effort)?

@WarchildMay I ask you a few questions about these? Where did you buy them? They look like pro bolts from the UK. Are you happy with them? (Real titanium? No corrosion anywhere?) Does one need a 12 point socket? I only have 6 point sockets. Does the titanium look noticeably better than stainless steel? If I'm not mistaken this is a race part and is meant to lower unsprung weight. I don't think we really notice this so it's mostly about looks, right? My thinking is if I'm not sure how to proceed I might as well throw a visual upgrade in the mix to make it easier to decide.

You are not going to believe this. I can't remember the last time I got gasoline on me. I was very young, that's for sure. Today I took the family for a long drive (well, long for Belgians at least) to first go for a walk at a lake and then visit friends with a new baby. Along the way I was filling up the car and a lot went wrong with the reading of my card which I won't get into but suffice to say that I was not relaxed. The nozzle was at an odd angle and didn't go in all the way but the last notch on the nozzle held it into place fine. But with this conversation in the back of my mind I had the urge to try and adjust the nozzle in the middle of filling the tank. I thought I really don't want to get gasoline all over me. Which resulted in it happening! I jumped out and sprayed me. I should have left it alone. I am writing this still wearing the pants that were full of gas hours ago. Also on the crotch and I had no choice but to wear them all day long. Luckily I at least had a fresh t-shirt with me and the gas station has a plastic bag for the smelly one. It was also a glorious day and we could keep the windows open and now the smell is gone (or we've all gotten used to it). Life is strange.

That makes sense.

That's a lot! Hang in there and fingers crossed for July. +1 @WarchildIt's probably been asked before but what role does the Tracer have when you have a XR? I haven't tried one yet but have ridden with one and I always thought of the XR as a similar bike only more luxurious and powerful. An upgrade? I know about the difference in engine character but had not expected someone to keep riding both. Could you share what the Tracer gives you that the XR doesn't so much so that you keep both?