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What amp fuse have yall switched to for the accessory port?


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Just blew the second 2amp fuse on my 21 T9GT charging my phone. I've seen mention of people who have changed the fuse out to higher amp fuses. 

My Galaxy S24+ pulls 5amps at max draw and I'd like to have that if possible. 

Does anyone know the wiring gauge of that accessory port? What's the max amperage it can take? 

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Posted (edited)

The maximum power rating for the accessory port is 24W (12V x 2A).

S24+ charges at 25W for fast charge, and 45W for super-fast charging. Both exceed the bike's accessory port specification. Not surprising that you're blowing the fuse.

I wouldn't put a higher rated fuse in there. Safer to use a USB adapter that outputs <24W to the USB port.

Alternately, run a separate USB port adapter directly from the battery with its own fuse circuit +/- relay.

Edit: I should also mention that your phone battery has a 4.9Ah (22Wh) capacity, whilst the bike has one with 9Ah (108Wh) - and more or less 50% depth of discharge (54Wh), depending on age. So you can easily flatten your bike battery by charging your phone.

Edited by someguy
Battery capacities
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Posted (edited)

Suggest above also. If you plan on connecting other accessories like aux lights, GPS nav or heated gear, a fuse block would be better so you only have 1 connection to the battery and the fuses are mated with that device or accessory. Something like this:

https://www.fuzeblocks.com/

 

Edited by robzilla
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I completely agree that there is better solutions. Realistically I know running a dedicated charger off the battery is probably the solution I will end up with. But at 2amp max I literally do not own a device that won't blow that fuse. I believe even my smart watch will pull more than that. I've seen multiple threads where people discussed changing that fuse. I'm trying to read the wiring diagram to see if the wiring can even take a higher amp fuse, and while I have decent wrenching experiance, it is over my head to figure out the wiring gauge. 

 

I don't have a dedicated GPS (I use my phone), heated gear is run off a battery tender pigtail, and i dont have aux lights. If it doesn't charge my phone it's useless to me. 

 

Im thinking about testing a 3amp fuse since I'm guessing that will be a safe increase. 

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I would not put a higher amp fuse in it. You're asking for trouble. Don't risk it and just add a dedicated charger hooked up directly to the battery. Less than $10 is nothing compared to melted bike wires.

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Posted (edited)
Quote

But at 2amp max I literally do not own a device that won't blow that fuse.

I gave you a solution. Go to a dollar store and get an 18W QC 12V-to-USB adapter. Your phone will still charge.

Amazon example

You’re stuck in the X part of an XY problem. We’re trying to help you by addressing Y.

Edited by someguy
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Finally

they put the Microphone button in the bottom left

 Anyway.

Back to the subject at hand

 Depending how electrically you're inclined, you run positive and negative from a fuse near the battery Up to the front

 on Amazon a dual USB high-speed 5w per channel plus a Volt meter

problem solved. You can also run a smaller USB to your phone mount and have a plug going right into your phone that stays there.

 I don't know which one you have, but on earlier models on the left, there was a cigarette lighter and on the right there was a hole that needs to be opened up a tad for the dual kickass USB V ️ meter

20240511_201054.jpg

20240511_201336.jpg

20240511_201356.jpg

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Was $16 on Amazon

A 5v power converter mounted near the right front pair of OEM  fuse boxes feeds twin USB A cables that EACH crank out as much as 5 amps if needed.

One USB socket goes up to my phone mount into a clip (connection buckle) one of the  RAM arm pivot bolts, the other goes under the pillion saddle and a USB C or Micro USB cable feeds through a small hole into my Shad top case. 

Screenshot_20240511_233956_Samsung Internet.jpg

Screenshot_20240511_234003_Samsung Internet.jpg

 

20240512_105855.jpg

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15 hours ago, Chlocker said:

I am reading your iPhone pulls 2.2amps max which means you will blow your accessory port fuse since it is rated at 2amp. 

I am getting the feeling that you may not understand how current (amps) and potential (volts) works.

Power = potential x current (Ohm's law)
P = VI
watts =volts x amps

Just saying "1 amp" or "2 amps" is meaningless without the voltage.

An iPhone draws 5W when charging at 1 amp, because it's at 5 volts. At 2.2 amps it's drawing 11W. So no, it's not going to blow a fuse rated for 2 amps at 12 volts. The USB adapter is nominally converting 12V*0.9A to 5V*2.2A.

Your Samsung draws 5A at 5V, which is 25W.

Edited by someguy
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