Midlife Crisis Tour

[rustyshackles]

Stage 4: Provo to Lava Hot Springs, ID; 328 miles.
I started early again, sidestand up right around 6 AM. I'm a rule follower generally. I've always pretty much followed manufacturer's recommendations regarding maintenance for my cars and motorcycles to the letter, and with a few exceptions the practice has served me well. At this stage of the tour I was past 4000 miles on the bike, which meant a scheduled servicing was due. I opted to have the oil change done only, at South Valley Motorsports in Draper, UT
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3077_zpsluudanj8.jpg
which was on my route out of the Provo area. The service department opens at 7 AM during the week. Other dealers take note and raise your game!!
 
After this i was in morning rush hour traffic on the I-15 headed north. Between Orem and Salt Lake City traffic slowed in a hurry, and the cause was a motorcycle cop who was single handedly holding everyone to the speed limit. A short distance later a second motor officer entered the road from the shoulder, and began gesturing to motorists to slow down while weaving left and right across all lanes of traffic. At the next exit he and his partner left the freeway. The only explanation I could figure is that they were practicing traffic control for response to an emergency situation.
 
In addition to uploading my daily routes to the Garmin device, I had backup copies on storage media just in case. I never had to go the the backup during tour, but knowing I had it gave me peace of mind.
 
I continued on I-15 north from Salt Lake City, just west of the Wasatch Nat'l Forest. Near Brigham City I exited the superslab and rode US-91 north through Logan and into Idaho. A gas stop followed in Preston, ID, where i chatted up a group of six Harley riders who, in traditional costume, were enjoying a good ride out. The temperature was climbing so I took some extra time to hydrate.  I enjoy the bottled Starbucks coffee drinks which while overpriced, are a tasty and somewhat satisfying way to take in some calories, and I downed one here along with a liter of water.
 
At Preston I took ID-36 west, which led me through the Caribou Nat'l Forest before a quick jaunt south on I-15 again. The road surface on 36, while sufficiently tacky, visually did not impart a sense of traction to me. I've always felt that the belief that the tires will stick is part of traction, in that confidence leads to smooth riding, loose arms and shoulders, and an avoidance of tension and jerky moves that increase the risk of going down. 
 
The plan from here was more riding of state roads in a clockwise loop to I-86, then east through Pocatello, back to I-15, then US-30 east to my lodging for the night in Lava Hot Springs, ID. Before long I came upon these warnings
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3079_zpsrnjxqt8c.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3078_zpsvo2pu4hw.jpg
 
I just wasn't up for slow riding, sketchy traction, or both. I cut out the state road loop and arrived in LHS at about 2:00 PM, refreshingly early enough to get a few things done like buy some breakfast items at the local grocery store and ship home some clothing that I packed that wasn't needed.
 
Lava Hot Springs had a population of 407 at the 2010 census. It appears to be mostly a tourist town, though I observed some authentic cowboy types, who I assumed to be locals, at a saloon. Here are a few photos
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0100_zpsydlkmqkm.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0101_zpsbe9lzalw.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0102_zpsjqhlhnpf.jpg
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0103_zpsg89vekgu.jpg
This place was a stone's throw from my accommodations at the Alpaca Inn, where the owner is a motorcyclist.  He has done some long tours and we had an enjoyable chat while he checked me in.
 
The bike outside the bar might be a GS 500, which was my first ride. Ah memories.
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3081_zps33mox5qv.jpg
 
I had a bison ribeye at the nicest restaurant in town, the Portneuf Grille & Lounge, washed down by a couple of Snake River IPAs. I walked around the small town for a bit before again calling it a night soon after sunset.
 
 
 

[rustyshackles]

Stage 5: Lava Hot Springs to Boise; 379 miles
By now I was settling into a daily rhythm and routine. Wake up before sunrise, finish packing luggage, put bags on bike, eat a light breakfast, start riding. The riding part was starting to feel like a job, and i mean the best job possible. Getting from point A to point B (safely) was really my only responsibility.
 
Upon arrival at the evening's lodging I'd remove the luggage from the bike, put a wet towel on my helmet face shield to aid bug removal, shower, wash clothing if necessary (usually by hand for wicking base layer stuff; i did one small load using a hotel machine and one other at an Airbnb property), eat, review the next day's route and attempt to figure out road construction, check in with the family, and sack out.
 
I had planned little time for sightseeing. The tour was about riding roads that were technically challenging or scenic, and long days in the saddle. I wanted it to be tough.
 
Minutes after leaving the hotel I looked down and saw that the oil level warning light was lit. WTF? Seconds later it turned off and did not return. The only difference in conditions that morning was the temperature: 47 F. This was the coldest the bike had experienced but I don't know if this had anything to do with it.
 
The route took me back west on US-30 then I-15 north to near Blackfoot. I followed US-26 north, US-20 west, US-93 north, then ID-75 into the Challis Nat'l Forest to the town of Stanley where it was time for gas and a break for food and fluids. 
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3086_zpsukm19vgc.jpg http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3085_zps9kzgdclp.jpg
 
I rode ID-21 from Stanley, which was wonderfully twisty mountain roads, gorgeous vistas, and little other traffic. As had been the case since I left home the weather was sunny, but now the temperature was pleasant. I was enjoying the kind of all-to-myself solitude that I had set out to experience.
 
The planned route was ID-21 all the way into Boise. In Lowman I missed a turn (the Garmin was very difficult to read in bright sunlight) and found myself instead on ID-55 which dropped me south into Boise.
 
After taking care of post-ride chores I set out on foot to explore a bit of downtown Boise (this is the capitol building)
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3088_zpsbv5ivri0.jpg
 
Another great day!!
 
 

[rustyshackles]

Stage 6: Boise to Bend, OR; 319 miles
About 50 miles of riding on I-184 and I-84 got me to the OR state line. I took OR-21 south for a short distance then picked up US-20 aka Central Oregon Hwy westbound. The day's route called for simply following this highway into Bend, OR where I would stay at Mcmenamins Old St. Francis School. McMenamins is a chain of quirky pubs, restaurants, and hotels in OR and Seattle/Tacoma www.mcmenamins.com. The Old St. Francis School is a 1930s Catholic school which was converted into a very cool hotel. If you like things slightly out of the ordinary you should check out the properties of this chain, which are all unique.
 
Common to all of them are weird art

 

 

 

 
and design elements that incorporate the history of the building in unusual ways, particularly the hotels.  The McMenamins Passport is a small book the size, shape and look of a regular passport in which customers can get stamps for visiting locations and participating in activities and amenities.  Completion of the passport bestows the Cosmic Tripster designation, which has benefits. During about 2 1/2 years of business travel to Portland/Vancouver and Seattle I had visited all of the WA and greater Portland locations, leaving those in outlying parts of OR.  My route for the tour would take me to all of those for which I needed a stamp. 
 
I had read that Eastern OR is remote, so I added gas stops in Vale and Burns (where an armed occupation and standoff between law enforcement and anti-government types happened during six weeks in January-February 2016) to my route to make sure I had enough gas.  The highway surface was good, traffic was light, and no police were spotted.  Twice I pushed the speed to within striking distance of that limited by the bike.  For much of the way a Hardley Ableson rider stuck with me. 
 
The terrain reminded me of parts of S. CA between San Diego and L. A. - rolling brown hills with scrubby vegetation.  The feeling was of remoteness and open space.
 
Here's a place I was happy not to be staying at!
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3089_zpsng68ngly.jpg
 
The day was another sunny and hot one, with blue, nearly cloudless skies.  The ride had been fun and satisfying, and I was very much looking forward to drinking local Bend craft beer, as the town is recognized as one of the meccas for this.  I enjoyed the Deschutes brewpub, but my favorite place was called Crux Fermentation Project.  The beer was excellent and varied, and I really enjoyed the conversations with other patrons and the bartenders.   Bend is a town I could easily retire to.

[rustyshackles]

Stage 7: Bend to Forest Grove, OR; approximately 425 miles.
 
I'm not sure of the precise distance for the day because I deviated from the planned route to visit Crater Lake National Park. i rode US-97 south from Bend to near Chiloquin, then OR-62 and a Crater Lake approach road to the park. The sights, sounds and smells of the forest were a delight for the senses.
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0108_zpsra5nm2l9.jpg
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0107_zpsinknnqji.jpg
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0105_zpsj5oia2xs.jpg
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0111_zpswginrahx.jpg
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0115_zps7ewaf5vl.jpg
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0116_zps8nsflurp.jpg
 
This was super cool and as you can see the weather was spectacular. I don't recommend visiting on a Saturday, as I did, as parking spaces were in short supply. Other riders and I parked illegally which did not please park staff.
 
An unplanned treat after leaving the park was OR-138, which I rode to Roseburg, OR and McMenamins Roseburg Station Pub & Brewery, the southernmost outpost in the McMenamins empire
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0122_zpsnz1u6jm1.jpg
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0120_zps8sfc9l2l.jpg
 
State road 138 was spectacular mountain roads (and some scary downhill corners) and gorgeous scenery. Traffic was light and I felt free to ride as fast as I dared. I highly recommend this road.
 
I was feeling depleted and had a late lunch at Roseburg Station. Service was appallingly slow, and by the time I got out of there, given the distance to my accommodations for the night (McMenamins Grand Lodge in Forest Grove)
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0124_zps9njxr061.jpg
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0125_zpsjjraw9ee.jpg
 
an after dark arrival was a distinct possibility. I opted for the dreaded I-5 to make up some time, and arrived at around 7:30 PM. I had an entire passport page to complete, including a search for a piece of art using a clue, so I showered, completed the evening routine, and got busy.

[rustyshackles]

Stage 8: Forest Grove to Lincoln City, OR; 215 miles
 
i always cover the bike when parking it overnight away from home. It is the first line of defense against the opportunistic thief, and it makes me feel better. Before covering it the night before I put it on the center stand and lubed the chain. I carried two small cans of lube with me.
 
As the day's ride would be relatively short I slept in a bit and had a good breakfast at the hotel. This painting http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3116_zpsbt0yn2rp.jpg
was very close to my hotel room, which made me miss my old dog Archie. i didn't know that soon I would be missing him terribly.
 
The day's route was local roads until I reached the town of Clatskanie, from where I followed US-30 roughly parallel to the Columbia River to near the mouth of the Columbia at Astoria. Some of these local roads were challenging. One, which has Butler Maps' highest grade, had me in almost over my head. There were many tight turns with sometimes very rough pavement, and frequent camber changes, some mid-turn. I was pleased to be deposited onto smooth highway and a gas stop in Clatskanie.
 
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3120_zpsrecia25s.jpg
 
This photo was taken in Astoria, the far point of my journey. The bridge, going from left to right, is US-101 toward WA. 101 going south would be my companion for the next 2 1/2 days.
 
Another passport opportunity awaited in Gearhart http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0126_zps4zsjgvcd.jpg
 
I stayed for a sandwich and bowl of chowder. Back on the bike, i became frustrated with the slower speed and traffic lights.  I had to remind myself that this was therapy for me, and to go with the flow. Flow was interrupted a short distance later upon realizing that the right handguard was no longer connected to the handlebar. Either it had vibrated out or some scumbag with an allen wrench had stolen the collar and connecting parts. Riding was not effected but it was annoying. I decided to try to locate a Yamaha dealer who could fix it.
 
101 was a pleasant ride, at times right beside the ocean
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3124_zpsahp0voi6.jpg
 
I got the final passport stamps at the McMenamins Lighthouse Brewpub in Lincoln CIty. http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0141_zpsqhqf8or2.jpg
 
My beachside hotel was just a few miles south.  I had arranged with the manager to park my bike next to the main entrance, which gave me piece of mind. A walk on the beach http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3127_zpszyi9rqzj.jpg and phone call home were a nice end to a splendid day.
 
 
 

[rustyshackles]

Stage 9: Lincoln City to Newport, OR; 305 miles
 
Lincoln City to Newport point-to-point is only 26 miles. Many of the best bike roads in OR are in the coastal region, and I wanted to explore more of them. My route included a long loop and a shorter loop inland. The final stretch into Newport was US-20, past Corvallis and Oregon State University, and on some lovely twisties and elevation change. Five minutes of rain fell, the first I experienced since leaving home. I had invested in some quality Gore-Tex gear I had been lusting after for aa few years, and really wanted to put it to the test.
 
I didn't realize how much of a tourist town Newport is. People and cars were everywhere, and my senses were a bit shocked. Here is a quieter part of town http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_0143_zpsprkqzofb.jpg near my Airbnb accommodation. The driveway was uphill and all gravel, and I put the sidestand plate I purchased for the tour to use.
 
I hand washed clothing for the last time and had a wonderful fish dinner before retiring for the night.

[rustyshackles]

Stage 10: Newport to Crescent City, CA; 231 miles
 
I rode the rest of the OR coast, US-101 all the way. Many more postcard views
http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj523/FJ-09rider/IMG_3131_zpsubi6hyvl.jpg
 
(dangling handguard visible) dead stops for highway construction, and much contemplative riding. I stopped at Florence Yamaha in Florence, OR for a proper chain cleaning. It is a small shop, and I found it unusual that they had me ride the bike into the service bay and back out after the job was done. I had to sweep away a dozen or more bolts and other metal bits. Housekeeping left a lot to be desired.
 
The Garmin got confused in Crescent City, and finding where I would be staying took a bit of doing. This was another Airbnb booking. My host was a delightful older lady who provides her guests with homemade sourdough pizza, made from a 110-year old sourdough starter. The house oozed charm and quirkiness.
 
The next morning my wife called. The health of Archie (our 14-year old dog) had taken an unexpected turn for the worse, and she was concerned he might not survive until I made it home. The thought of my loyal friend dying without me by his side was almost too much to take. I decided to change plans and compress four planned days of riding (approximately 2100 miles) into three. This meant not staying in Santa Rosa, CA as planned - within walking distance of Russian River Brewing Co. and their fabulous double IPA called Pliny the Elder.
 
 

[rustyshackles]

Stages 11 & 12: Crescent City to Kingsburg, CA (555 miles) & Kingsburg to Albuquerque (893 miles)
 
My focus now was simply on getting home; enjoying the journey was no longer a priority. I had found a Yamaha dealer in Santa Rosa who offered to take the handguard hardware from a floor model FJ-09 , which I thought was excellent customer service. None of the other dealers I called thought creatively about a solution. I was all about getting from point A to B though, so I kept rolling through Santa Rosa.
 
To avoid late afternoon Bay Area traffic I rode east, staying north of San Pablo Bay and the connected bodies of water moving inland. There was a horrific tie-up on a road that feeds Napa Valley traffic; probably an hour to cover about a 1.1 mile stretch. I should have lane split or rode the shoulder.
 
I picked up CA-99 near Stockton and rode it to Kingsburg. I finished in the dark, and battled smoke from multiple grass fires on both sides of the highway in the Fresno area. After unloading the bike I went outside to cover it, and found the fork-mounted LED on the right side dangling! It was working, and I duct taped the wire to the reflector on that side.
 
I awoke early the next day. Riding south on 99 I found way more 18 wheeler volume than I cared for at 6 AM. My goal was to live in the moment and not think about the mileage that remained.
 
At Bakersfield I turned east on CA-58 and stayed on it to Barstow, spent a few miles on I-15, then I-40. The Bakersfield-Barstow stretch felt like the Mojave Desert. It was hot, I mean wind burning your eyeballs hot.  At one point the bike wouldn't start after being turned off to wait out a train at a railroad crossing. Not here, not now! I pushed it to the side, let it rest for a few minutes, and was thrilled when it fired up.
 
At Needles, CA (AZ border) I was overheating and stopped for an extended cooling break. I got a respite from the heat around Flagstaff, and cool weather and rain from a storm approaching Albuquerque. Another after dark arrival.

[rustyshackles]

Stage 13: Albuquerque to home; 635 miles
 
This was all very familiar roads. Here I am in my custom Midlife Crisis Tour shirt at a gas stop in Amarillo
 
 

 
I kept my head down so to speak and ground out the remaining few hundred miles. It was great to see my family again. Archie
 
 
 

 
was doing better and seems to have recovered, though his hips and hearing are failing. We're just trying to love and spoil him in the time we have left together.
 
I found what I was looking for out on the road. It was a part of me that while not lost, has been pushed into the background by the demands of career and family. I think I needed to be reminded of the value of relationships, and the tour accomplished this. I plan to make more solo trips like this, though not as many days. Just long enough and frequently enough to restore balance.
 
Thanks for reading.
 
 
 
 

[pcarnut]

Great report and fun to read, thanks!
 
Had a Basecamp question for you:
 
If one is not starting the day's route at the EXACT spot you've plugged in for the day, the GPS will ask if you want to start from the original starting point. If you say no, then it re-calculates the route using the standard unit parameters (fastest route, shortest route etc), not the custom roads you've spent all this time planning. Is there a way to keep the GPS using the Basecamp planned route without going all the way back to the starting point?

[rustyshackles]

I'm not sure pcarnut. Why Garmin would release a product with virtually no instructions is beyond me. There are some good you tube tutorials. The best document I found was self published by a guy in Germany.
 
I never started the day at a location other than the one plugged in, but many times during a route I shut my Zumo 660 off and after turning on again chose not to start at original point; the original route was maintained every time.
 
Sorry I can't offer more. I learned just enough about Basecamp to meet my needs.

[fddriver2]

Nice RR. Thanks for sharing....

[upshift]

Just wanted to say that I enjoyed reading this - lowered defences look good on you.
 
Thanks for letting us ride pillion on your journey.

[pcarnut]

I'm not sure pcarnut. Why Garmin would release a product with virtually no instructions is beyond me. There are some good you tube tutorials. The best document I found was self published by a guy in Germany. 
I never started the day at a location other than the one plugged in, but many times during a route I shut my Zumo 660 off and after turning on again chose not to start at original point; the original route was maintained every time.
 
Sorry I can't offer more. I learned just enough about Basecamp to meet my needs.

Thanks.  Recently did a ride from San Diego to northern CA and had spent a bunch of time importing some nice routes/roads and it turned into a thoroughly frustrating experience trying use Basecamp.  If I deviated from the route or turned off the unit I was screwed.  Did you use "Create a Route" or just leave your route as a "Track"?  From what I've learned subsequently, leaving the route as a "Track" rather than importing it as a "Route" might be the key to not having the Zumo recalculate things. 

[BentAero]

I'm not sure pcarnut. Why Garmin would release a product with virtually no instructions is beyond me. There are some good you tube tutorials. The best document I found was self published by a guy in Germany. 
I never started the day at a location other than the one plugged in, but many times during a route I shut my Zumo 660 off and after turning on again chose not to start at original point; the original route was maintained every time.
 
Sorry I can't offer more. I learned just enough about Basecamp to meet my needs.

Thanks.  Recently did a ride from San Diego to northern CA and had spent a bunch of time importing some nice routes/roads and it turned into a thoroughly frustrating experience trying use Basecamp.  If I deviated from the route or turned off the unit I was screwed.  Did you use "Create a Route" or just leave your route as a "Track"?  From what I've learned subsequently, leaving the route as a "Track" rather than importing it as a "Route" might be the key to not having the Zumo recalculate things.

No. It's not instead of, it's in addition to. After you've created your route and confirmed its going where you want, create a track. After you send the route to device, then send the track to device. On the Zumo, import the route, then import the same file in "off road tracks". By doing that, if the Zumo deviates from your originally intended course, the screen will display the original 'track' in a different color -just follow the track until the two lines converge again. 
It's important to confirm your desired route is actually going where you intend before exporting to device. Once you export...
 
Logic says recalculating is a good idea, but it doesn't respond consistently to a written/imported route. It's best to turn OFF recalculate when using an imported route and use the track you imported to confirm your course. Recalculate works fine when you let Zumo plot your course but can really get goofy on an imported, pre-prepared route.
 
It's inexcusable Garmin's Basecamp instructions are non-existent, especially since it appears the software and algorithms were written by space aliens.