Jump to content

Adjusted my valves and my exhaust smells terrible now


vinnie

Recommended Posts

Has anyone adjusted their valves and get a very noticeably smelly exhaust after the job is complete? The bike seems to be running well and throttle response is normal. I rode it over 500 miles so far, but the stock exhaust smells terrible. It is most noticeable when I get to a red light or just idling...I smell it within 5-10 seconds of being stopped.
 
My entire bike is stock, besides a windshield and seat. My exhaust valves were very tight and all required shims @24k miles. I had to disconnect the ECU for the job and I'm wondering if it needed to be reset or something. I really want to restore confidence in the bike's reliability because I am taking it out to California and back in 17 days. I was also concerned about having to touch the stock CCT because of the issues people have been having with them, but I don't hear any noise coming from there. Any thoughts are appreciated
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where is the smell coming from? Is it out of the pipe or from the engine? warm it up leaving it running on the stand and walk around and try to pinpoint the location of the smell. that will give you somewhere to start.
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in the middle of my valve adjust at 22,000 miles.  As per the OP, all my intakes were in spec. while all the exhaust were tight.  Don't have the numbers here at work.  The new shims should be at the house when I get home and the engine will go back together on Friday.  Will post details when the bike gets started up.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have no clue about smelly exhaust. But the stock came chain tensioner can break at any time. Mine broke 600 miles from new, others have gone a lot longer. I replaced mine with an APE manual tensioner before the recall, and personally like having way better reliability. Regardless, both of these issues can leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere with a destroyed engine. I would highly recommend you get your bike to a competent shop before you end up stranded with a destroyed engine.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have no clue about smelly exhaust. But the stock came chain tensioner can break at any time. Mine broke 600 miles from new, others have gone a lot longer. I replaced mine with an APE manual tensioner before the recall, and personally like having way better reliability. Regardless, both of these issues can leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere with a destroyed engine. I would highly recommend you get your bike to a competent shop before you end up stranded with a destroyed engine.
Did the recall come out after your cam chain tensioner broke? Or do even the recalled ones still break?

'15 FJ09

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My cam chain tensioner broke before the recall, Yamaha dealer would not do anything until "engine performance was adversely affected". I was not going to wait until the engine blew up. These kind of cam chain tensioners have had problems over several different bike and brands of bikes. APE manual tensioner much more reliable, nothing but a bolt and lock nut vs lots of small parts that wear and break in the stock design.
 
Google rotten egg exhaust smell, apparently fuels high in sulfur, excessively rich engine mixture, especially when cold, and catalytic converter loading up all contribute to the smell. Maybe you just need to run the engine a little harder when fully warmed up to clear out catalytic converter. After you install APE manual cam chain tensioner, of course.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So my tune up work is completed and ready for a a test ride tomorrow.  At 22,400 miles I: changed oil and filter; changed coolant; changed spark plugs; installed APE cam chain tensioner; adjusted valves; synched throttle bodies.
 
With respect to the OP in this thread, All my intakes were in spec, while all the exhaust were tight, ranging from 0.0075 to 0.009 inch.  I installed proper shims and then rechecked.  Clearances were still too tight.  This is a known thing that you don't always get the result you calculated.  I heat cycled the engine with no effect, so ordered more shims.  This time I got what I was looking for.  All are now 0.011 inch, so at the loose end of the spec.
 
I'm a little nervous about the APE tensioner adjustment.  Will review the thread on that and recheck after a few miles.  
 
The engine sounds great in the garage!
 
Regarding the smelly exhaust.  When you remove the valve cover there is a bit of oil drip onto the headers.  On startup there is smoke and stink.  No big thing.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

my mt09 tracer smelled terrible its burns chain lube that thrown onto the silencer box if you look at it you will see burnt oil on it ive taken my stock exhaust off and put a motad lobster system on job sorted
 
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quit over lubing the chain. An O-ring chain does not need lube because lube cannot get past O-rings and attracts and hold dirt which wears O-rings faster. Only exception is if you live in a damp environment and lube is needed to prevent rust.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quit over lubing the chain. An O-ring chain does not need lube because lube cannot get past O-rings and attracts and hold dirt which wears O-rings faster. Only exception is if you live in a damp environment and lube is needed to prevent rust.
I'm pretty sure you still need a little lube between the chain rollers, inside plates and sprockets. You should not use so much that it's flinging off but some lubes don't cling that well.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×