Help - Need advice on installing a Fuze Block

[DavidS]

I'm not savvy with electrical stuff, so before I go and screw something up, I'm going to ask a few basic questions.....
 
1) I have a 2015 FJ-09 and I want to add a Fuze Block to make adding accessories easier. I don't like having everything running directly to the battery.
 
2) The Fuze Block needs a switched wire to control devices that only work when the switch comes on. They suggest tapping into the rear brake light electrical line for power.
 
3) It appears that the electrical connector to the rear brake is a plug, with three wires feeding into the plug. Blue, Black, and Yellow. I'm not sure which of the three lines going into the plug would be the switched line.
 
4) I'm a little uncomfortable peeling back the black wrap over the wires and cutting / splicing before it connects to the plug, is this really the best way to do this?
 
5) Is there another source of switched power I could/should be using that would be better/safer/easier?
 
 
Any help is appreciated, I just don't want to botch this up.
 

[peporter]

I'm not savvy with electrical stuff, so before I go and screw something up, I'm going to ask a few basic questions..... 
1) I have a 2015 FJ-09 and I want to add a Fuze Block to make adding accessories easier. I don't like having everything running directly to the battery.
 
2) The Fuze Block needs a switched wire to control devices that only work when the switch comes on. They suggest tapping into the rear brake light electrical line for power.
 
3) It appears that the electrical connector to the rear brake is a plug, with three wires feeding into the plug. Blue, Black, and Yellow. I'm not sure which of the three lines going into the plug would be the switched line.
 
4) I'm a little uncomfortable peeling back the black wrap over the wires and cutting / splicing before it connects to the plug, is this really the best way to do this?
 
5) Is there another source of switched power I could/should be using that would be better/safer/easier?
 
 
Any help is appreciated, I just don't want to botch this up.

As far as splicing into the line, these are simple and good quality https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Connector-16-18-Gauge-Wire/dp/B00389R8KU I would suggest tapping into the tail light hot wire, not the brake lights. I think it's only a black and white wire pair, and tap into white. Easy peasy.....good luck. 

[DavidS]

peporter - thanks for responding, I mistakenly called the plug a brake, when it is the plug for the tail light. There isn't a single electrical line I can plug into, just the plug, which if you peel back the black casing, has three individual wires feeding into the plug. They are blue, black, and yellow in color. It is hard to see in the image.
 
I suppose one of those would be the right one to splice into, but I'm not sure which one.
 
Any ideas on how to find out which would be the correct wire? See picture below:
 
 

 

[DavidS]

Adding a new picture with better visibility to the wires.....

 

[DavidS]

Well after doing some research it appears that Yamaha's color coding for wiring is:
 

 
I'm guessing the Blue is the tail light, can anyone confirm?

[BBB]

A video on using positaps in case you’ve not used them before @david. Splicing from about 1 min 40s. The Blue looks good from the colour code you posted.

[DavidS]

Thanks BBB, I'm going out to get them now. I realized I could pull the sheathing back and separate the tail light wire from the rest of the wires in that group, and it should give me enough clearance to get the posi-lock around the wire. Much cleaner way to solve my problem. Love this forum.....
 
 

[okietgtrider]

Where you have wound up is exactly the same path and destination I wound up with just a couple weeks ago sorting out this same modification.  Blue wire, positap, switched power...
 
The PC-8 fuse block even came with a a positap just for this. 
 
 
https://fj-09.org/thread/5752/when-get-wiring-block?page=2
 
The forum was a big help to me as well. 

[DavidS]

Well I finished the mod, tested everything, and it all works great. Then a put the seat back on. Unfortunately, the Corbin seat doesn't fit very well with all the new wires, so I'm going to run the wires under the metal seat plate, which should give me plenty of room for the seat.
 
I was able to get switched and non-switched power to a few devices, so I know it is all working as intended. I just need to clean up the wiring and I'm ready to go.
 
My general impression is that using this block cleans up the electrical stuff under the seat, but it moves everything back behind the seat, which creates for longer wire runs. All in all, a decent trade off, but I spent most of my time dealing with wiring issues, not with the device itself.
 
Thanks to everyone for all your help.

[agunslinger]

DavidS,

About to do this as well.  Any chance you have a picture of exactly where you used the pos-tap on that blue tail light wire?  Was it up close tot he OEM terminal connection?

[piotrek]

@agunslinger... you can tap into the blue (run) wire anywhere before the white OE connector (yellow line in photo). You'll just need to split the black wire loom to expose the wire to be able to work with it. I tapped my relay coil into that same spot.

[DavidS]

Thanks @piotrek

That's exactly what I did, and it works fine. The wire is pretty small, making it a pain to splice, but it works fine.....

[agunslinger]

Thanks everyone.  That helps.

[agunslinger]

Considered moving this to new topic, but will continue this for future electric neophytes seeking info that stumble upon it.  This thread David started and his questions, combined with these questions and answers below might help others I think that truly need guidance.  things some take for granted but could be fatal errors to new, but up to the challenge, noobs.

My remaining questions as I try my best to make it harder than it really is ;^)

1. I assumed the two green 20 amp fuses are for the main PC-8 inline fuse.   Doesn't really mention that, intuited from the picture of the product.
    
2. Also not clearly mentioned, I assume from others pictures that the first 2 positions are unswitched, the remaining 6 are switched.
    
3. For existing trickle charger already on battery direct, its clip off the terminal connector rings, strip the ends, connect to PC-8 (unswitched).  Same for any new accessory - cut off exiting, strip and attach to PC-8.
    
4. Can I place all the fuses in line even if not being used?  Staggered by size of course as suggested in instructions.  Many of the pictures show empty fuse spots not being used.  Can I use those non used locations just as fuse storage wiht nothing attached?
    
5. My OCD would prefer a slightly better connection than screw down terminals for stranded wires.  seems like they culd get frayed over time.  I might apply a little solder to each twisted end to make it a solid end.
    
6. And for my FJ-09, I think the only option I have for the connection to existing switched wire is the posi-tap option and wire on the kit?  I just wanted to make sure I wasnt missing another option or one of the many add ons they sell that would make a more direct connection.  I know the African Twin boys have a dedicated existing Aux terminal near back they can use without a splice.

Many, many thanks!

[YamaGeezer]

I have been thinking about using one of these on my bike.  The block is made for a car but should provide a single tap to the battery for multiple accessories.  It also includes relays to avoid needing to add them separately.  If anyone has already tried this, I would like to hear how well it worked.  

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-7564 

 

RIde Safe!