chain tight spots

[oztracey]

Hi guys. I have a 2016 Tracer,  I just had new sprockets and chain fitted. Went with OEM front and JT rear with EK chain. When I went to pick the bike up the mechanic said there was a problem. There were tight spots in the new chain with a difference of 11 mm between loose and tight spots. This is the reason I changed the chain and sprockets in the first place! Interesting fact is that the difference in chain tension was also 11 mm with the old parts. What is going on here? I have read about possible causes such as sprocket not properly centred, tight master link etc... I have checked wheel alignment and its properly centred. Chain tension is 25 mm at loosest section and 36 mm at tightest. Not sure what to do and don't want to spend money chasing a problem if I don't need to. Any helpful advice gratefully received. 

Edited March 27, 2020 by oztracey

[BBB]

Whole bunch of questions here, to see if I understand the problem.

I presume you swapped like-for-like, as in, same number of teeth on each sprocket, same number of links in chain?

If there is a tight link in the new chain then it’s most likely to be the master link, so check that it moves freely. If not there, then spin the rear wheel slowly and examine the chain in sections until you find it. It’s unlikely though, as it is a new chain.

 Are you measuring chain tension at about the mid point between the two sprockets? I’m not sure I understand your measurements as you said it was “25mm at the lowest and 36mm at tightest” which seems counterintuitive. Do you mean it is only a 25mm vertical deflection when the chain is at a tight point, but 36mm when moving freely?

[oztracey]

yes, swapped like for like. Master link seems ok and yes, measuring between mid point of the 2 sprockets. Re my measurements, what I mean is that when taking measurements for chain tension, one section of the chain  I get a measurement of 25 mm and in another section 36 mm. Hope that makes sense?

[BBB]

Thanks, that’s clear.

I can only think that the chain is not flexing correctly in one section. I would lube the chain, go for a short ride to make sure all is bedded in correctly, then measure the deflection again, whilst the chain is warm. A visual check by sighting along the chain whilst rotating the wheel should also confirm that the wheel is aligned correctly.

[oztracey]

Thanks for your help. I will do that and see what happens. If that doesn't work I will take it to a Yamaha mechanic. Need new break pads soon anyway.  Noticed you are from North West UK, I am from Liverpool but now live in Australia. Anyway, thanks again for your help.

Stay healthy!

 

[BugsInTeeth]

25 to 35 mm slack is NOT enuff....you NEED 35 to 45 slack.....

get that much slack...then take it for a ride 4 - 5 miles,... come back, and with the chain warm,

up on the centerstand,  lube it   ...then run it a bit on the stand (couple minutes...shut it down

and check it again...if you still have a tight spot the chain is junk.

 

and I do NOT like EK chain....I like RK's best or DID's best   the rest are not in my ballpark.

 

and my opinion is based on experience since 1960..... whatever ya think....

[tktplz]

Do you know which EK he put on it? I use this EK and they excellent. 

EK Chain - 525SRX2-110 - 525 SRX2 Series Chain, 110 Links - Natural for sale online | eBay

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Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for EK...

You can get EK chains that don't even have orings. They are like the old chains we had in the late 60's and 70's. Don't last long either but they are cheap. You can get a few different grades. There are cheap oring chains like this;

520X118 SRO6 O-Ring Chain EK Chain 520SRO6-118

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Solid rollers and entended anti-kink bushings increase chain...

Heck the cheap one even has drilled links to lighten it. 

The 525SRX2 like I have even has drilled links in between the outer links to lighten them. I ran EK's on both my ZX11 and ZRX1100, 530 instead of 525 of course. Ran the ZRX1100 for 30,000 miles before it needed changed. only had to tighten it 3 times in 30,000 miles. Stiff links were the culprit and just the start of a tight spot. I use  kerosene and a chain brush to clean it and Motol I think, chain lube. A bit messer than chain wax but I'm old school and want a oil type film on the outside for rust prevention. Plus it comes in a 2.5 or 3 oz aresol can that's small and I take it on trips so I can lube on the fly. love that center stand. 

 

Tell us how it comes out. 

 

[BBB]

8 hours ago, oztracey said:

Noticed you are from North West UK, I am from Liverpool but now live in Australia.

I’m in Birkenhead. Slightly different climate in Brisbane I would imagine!

[Dodgy Knees]

May be worth taking it up the road and re check. If links are good, is the new chain seating correctly on sprockets, do the links sit within the teeth.?  Other than that, are the sprockets faulty.?