Removing left side heated grip

[betoney]

I want to install a different set of handlebars but don't want to ruin the factory heated grip.  Any hints, tips or advice on safely removing the heated grip?

Thanks

[kilo3]

Well only the left one really. Air is about the only option, not sure if preheating would help.

[2and3cylinders]

I've changed bars three times, first to a low bar, back to OEM and then to the Street Naked, and used the same procedure I have for eons as I would for any grip I want to save; it's just a bit more difficult due to heated grips stiffness and delicacy.

1. Remove the hand guard bolt and bar end adapter. Duh!

2. Insert a PE plastic flat screwdriver shaped "stick" or "probe" (I use an ancient Tupperware thingy or smooth wood) lubed with clear dielectric grease or similar grease between the bar and grip inward as far as possible without damaging the grip, and move the probe as a "spreader" around the circumference of the bar.

3. Insert the spray "straw" of CRC QD Electronic Cleaner (NO. 05103, iTEM #1003719 but any plastic and rubber safe spray (CRC non-chlorinated brake cleaner) next to the probe, and spray between grip and bar working it deeper and deeper and circumferentially, then pull the grip off.  Be sure to have the bar slid to the right in loosened or out of the bar clamps, and have enough slack in the heated grip wire. Duh again!

4. Clean I.D. of grips with the CRC QD Electric Cleaner or even Isopropyl Alcohol .  I use unscented "Aqua Net Professional Hold" hair spray as my grip cement...

Good Luck!

[betoney]

Thanks Brett

I used your recommendations, but sprayed WD-40 between the grip.  I forgot how thick and stiff the wall of the heated grip is, took quite a bit of light prying, spraying, twisting, prying, spraying and twisting to get the grip off.

I cleaned the inside of the grip with alcohol and a tooth brush and then sprayed the inside with hair spray to slip it on the bar.  You have to be quick as it sets up quickly, the last 1/2 inch had me worried, I really had to twist and push to get it in place as the hairspray dried the grip in place.

Rizoma MA009

[2and3cylinders]

Nice!  Whose MC, bracket, reservoir and discs?  If you look I've got a 14 R1 Brembo MC I grafted an Ebay reservoir to with the bracket I crafted from a DC-10 longeron clip; it's a zinc chromate coated high yield aluminum I coated black after shaping & drilling it, I can't remember what alloy and condition, after all I took it circa 1975.  I don't remember anything from the 60s!!!

I still have aerospace bits I regularly incorporate all these years later.

After 6 years at GD Convair in the late 70s, I went from the 757/757 to designing and fabing advanced composite Funny Car bodies, ultralight Cuyuna 500 engine and landing wheel nascels, and had always been buying, restoring / moding and selling Matchless and AJS basket cases.  SoCal was the epicenter of Matchless and AJS in the US.  The red beauty (ALL my bikes have been and are red LOL), the lighting makes it look Indian Red, was my personal ride on one of my fave putts, ENE out of SD up to Mt. Palomar and Julian.  Those were the days. 🙂

[2and3cylinders]

Oh, and WD40 was not the ideal ticket, it only worked because it has Kerosene in it (along with oil and that patented perfume smell).  A flat plastic probe is real important as it can be used taking it off and slipping it on; you just didn't use enough FinalNet...  Acetone squirted in will resoluableize the hair spray if it kicks-off too soon.

Ever tune a Mikuni pumper for a 500cc single?  If you look there is an aluminum adapter between the Mik and head, I made a few of different lengths and diameters before I found one that worked low and high with my pipe and can, which was like 1450 ~ 6,700 RPM.  Nothing the the smell of burning Caster R in the morning and a big single in the canyons!!  I think it had a 4 speed, certainly on the right...

[betoney]

12 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Nice!  Whose MC, bracket, reservoir and discs?  If you look I've got a 14 R1 Brembo MC I grafted an Ebay reservoir to with the bracket I crafted from a DC-10 longeron clip;

Bret

I am using an R1 MC along with R1 rotors.  The reservoir and bracket are parts I put together from eBay.  I like the improved braking but the only thing I don't like is the long lever pull before it grabs.  I wish it was more 'immediate', I'm not sure if it is the MC piston size or what?

[2and3cylinders]

Whose lever are you using?  I ran a Chinese reach/length adjustable and folding lever like I've used on my VTR and for a long time had the same issue as you.  I finally bought the matching R1 OEM lever and boom!  Problem solved!  Short travel with easy, accurate modulation and great bite.  I have the Spiegler lines front & rear, and EBC HH+ pads in fron (and may go with Hh i the rear when its time, as the OEM GG just don't have the feel or power I'd like).  I prefer the Veteran RJL but not the version Kurvey Girl sells.  My first set were ruined when Matt's adjustable compression set screw O-ring leaked fork fluid on my left rotor a second time (I was pissed and just installed his fixed comp valve).  Vesrahs just weren't worth the added cost again.

[betoney]

19 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Whose lever are you using?  I ran a Chinese reach/length adjustable and folding lever like I've used on my VTR and for a long time had the same issue as you.  I finally bought the matching R1 OEM lever and boom!  Problem solved!

I have Pazzo adjustable levers but can easily find an oem R1 lever to try.  -Thanks for the tip. 👍

After using adjustable levers for so many years though you get spoiled with the superior feel and ability to quickly adjust the reach based on the glove thickness.

[2and3cylinders]

The OEM R1 lever does have reach adjustment though the nearest notch is JUST close enough for my preference, and I have size 11 hands with only size 9.5 fingers (hammocks).  Apparently, there are 2 types of OEM levers, the 09~14 one I chose has a little knob on the front edge that is awkward to adjust and is unmarked.  The other 15 & on mechanism has a horizontal thumb wheel that may be better but may not fit 09~14 which have the Brembo MC.

[betoney]

On 10/24/2020 at 8:22 AM, 2and3cylinders said:

Whose lever are you using?  I ran a Chinese reach/length adjustable and folding lever like I've used on my VTR and for a long time had the same issue as you.  I finally bought the matching R1 OEM lever and boom!  Problem solved!  Short travel with easy, accurate modulation and great bite.

Bret, I bought an R1 brake lever to compare with my Pazzo.  I went out for a ride and immediately noticed less lever travel (before actuation) and firmer lever feel.  When I got home, I took the lever off and compared it with the Pazzo.  I noticed when measuring it with calipers that the hole that the plunger fits in is about 2mm deeper on the Pazzo lever meaning the plunger is already depressed a bit more initially with the oem R1 lever.  I'm going to try and shim the depth of the Pazzo to decrease the initial plunger depth - getting closer!

Thanks for the suggestion on the oem R1 lever. 👍