duhs10

10 minutes ago, peteinpa said:

95 RON is the UK designation.  It's equal to 90 R+M/2 here.  USA.

I had a feeling there was a reasonable explanation... thanks.

6 hours ago, peteinpa said:

Wanted to find the best place to post this.  Hope this is it.

Emissions sticker on my 15 FJ-09. 

Note the exhaust spec. goes smaller than the manual.  Another of many mistakes in the manual.

Can anybody get a pic of a newer Tracer sticker to see what it says?  Mine is under the rear fender where the wheel throws dirt.

Off subject, but interesting that your sticker says "95 RON MIN" for the fuel. I don't even know where to get 95 octane gas. 93 is the highest I have near me unless I'm buying 110 race fuel.... now I need to go look at my sticker.

3 hours ago, Warchild said:

This, a million times. These silly-ass beaks are just embarrassing.  Marketed by those who want you to believe the Tracer is somehow a mini-GS bike, and you can ride off-road, too, after installing a beak.  🙄    Please.

To each their own, what-ev's,  just know these goofy things look ridiculous on your road machine.

At least 2021 owners won't be doing this clown addition due to their headlight location.

 

I respectfully disagree... the front end looks incomplete with the horn hanging beneath the headlights. The beak helps.

...but to each their own.

9 hours ago, Achaios said:

So I found the culprit, so to speak.
Something was clogged. This is what is left of my catalytic converter. I am surprised that I didn´t notice a greater difference.

Does the mapping still work if I just rip out the wavy metal part? Tried riding it without the piece, it was deafening.

Contact the person or company that did your ECU flash and ask them about removing the cat... my thoughts are, remove the cat and let her rip.

2 minutes ago, Skidood said:

Hmm...bike has 1200 km on it...hope it settles down...wonder if using a full synthetic oil would help.  Also, chain slack was zero when I brought it home from the dealer.  Unfortunately I rode it like that for about 100 km before realizing it didn't match what is stated in the manual.

The manual (atleast on the early models) is too tight as well.

34 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

No, every motorcycle transmission has straight cut gears.

Did not know that

Its been discussed at length.  The consensus is that the whine is a result of straight cut gears in the transmission.

Definitely louder at certain speeds. Mine has either gotten quieter or I've gotten used to it because I don't notice it very often anymore.

Also check your chain slack and make sure its not too tight (recommended spec from yamaha is way to tight IMO).

...and lastly, kick it down to 5th if it gets too loud for you or your holding a speed where it gets annoying.

6 hours ago, Clegg78 said:

For threading the end of the bars,  are the stock bars threaded (I've not explored how the brush guards are actually mounted, I figured it was a compression fitting. 

The OEM bars are threaded and then there is also a threaded insert that is threaded that hand guards are threaded into....

Its not a matter of the gauge being inaccurate, it is due to the shape of the tank... the attached image is referring to a FZ-09 but the concept is the same.

40 minutes ago, Yamajank said:

Is it normal to have the middle cylinder the one with the white painted screw?  The videos I've watched were all one side or the other. 

It is my understanding that the one with the mark is the one with the lowest vacuum from the factory (or maybe its the other way around) that the other 2 are then adjusted to match.  Regardless, any one of them can be marked on any given motor.

If you search for FZ-09 or FJ-09 cylinder head assembly on ebay, there are some reasonably priced assemblies.

Yamaha FZ09 FJ09 Cylinder Head Top Engine Motor 2014-2016 B Part 1RC-11101-09-00

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This is a used cylinder head for a 2014 to...

Yamaha FZ09 FJ09 Fz 09 Cylinder Head Top Engine Motor 2014 2015 2016 Cams

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<p>Yamaha FZ09 FJ09 Fz 09 Cylinder...

33 minutes ago, betoney said:

 

Same here, the bar risers and bars with a different bend make a huge difference in comfort.  I have used the Rizoma bars on my current and past few bikes and find the sweep angle to be very neutral on the wrists.

Rizoma 1 1/8" Handlebars

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Remind me which model you have? MA009?

Its hard to diagnose roughness over the internet.

I know Ivan gets further into the ECU than most other tuners. He claimed to have adjusted ignition timing and gear dependent fuel and timing maps on my Bolt, so I assume he does similar on his other flashes. I would imagine that retarding or advancing the timing could add to some perceived roughness. Perhaps sync the throttle bodies and see if the "roughness" gets any better. This engine does have a little bit of a vibe/roughness through the mid range under load (hard to put into words). Nothing that has ever bothered me but definitely more so than a 4 cylinder would.

I would assume the smell is related to the bike running in a more rich condition while still having a catalytic converter installed.

How does the throttle feel? Smoother in terms of on/off, etc.? How does the power feel more/less? Most have a generally positive reaction to an ECU flash... so...

Lastly, if it continues to bother you, I would just tell him to return it to stock settings and either run it stock or use 2wheeldynoworks or flashed by vcyclenut.

22 minutes ago, Yamajank said:

Could the Ivan ecu flash have already caused a rough engine?  Initially I thought everything was smoother. Smooth to the point that I figured the speedo was completely jacked up somehow. The smell does bother me.  Not necessarily the smell itself but it gives me that feeling that something isn't right.  I don't know how to describe it but it's a cross between an electrical and gas but kind of foul. Some have mentioned that it's a signal that it's running rich from the flash. I emailed 2WDW about whether their flash causes that type of smell.  Response below. 

No, with the stock exhaust in place our custom mapping does not cause an overly rich "fuel" smell from the exhaust system. Over time, that CAN result in the failure and clogging of the catalytic converter.

 

However what has me even more concerned is that I think there is more engine vibration than before. I have probably only 500 miles on it since the flash. I hopped on fjray tracer the other day and I thought it was smoother and possibly even quicker than mine.  (We were both in std). Went on the highway today and at 75 it's giving a good amount of vibration to the bars. I don't remember that to be the case. Any opinions?  This is a 2019 GT with almost 7000 miles. 

It has been long time but I vaguely remember my stock exhaust being stinky at times. Just always thought it had to do with the catalytic converter. Haven't noticed it in years. Now running a Vcyclenut flash and a full Akrapovic exhaust.

You didn't provide much background info... Is everything else about the bike stock? Were there any other changes done to the bike at the same time as the flash? Is the smell after a hard run? At idle? Does the smell go away? Any loss of power? Have the throttle bodies been synced?

Since you are concerned that the flash is having a negative impact, you should call Ivan and discuss what you are experiencing.  As I previously stated, I used a different tuner for my '15 FJ, but I used Ivan for my '14 Bolt and he gave me the impression that he was proud of his work and would stand by it and make it right.

Lastly. Have you searched the FZ-09 forums for any similar experiences? 

1 hour ago, NotVeryCreative16 said:

Perhaps I wasn't clear with my wording. The broken bolt hole with the collar is for the bolt that goes through the valve cover and the camshaft cap. All 16 of the bolt holes going just through the camshaft caps are fine. You're correct that they would not have been touched during the CCT recall work. The broken bolts are the ones that would have been removed when removing the valve cover.

Oh ok.. that makes sense.

I thought you were describing multiple threads as well as the valve cover bolt with the collar.

Likely over-tightened during the CCT replacement.

So if you are just using helicoils for the valve cover bolts I think they would work. Although it will go the countless heat cycles, there shouldn't be much pressure on them. A concern I might have is that if the new threads were to fail/break and end up in the valve train it could cause some problems.

I don't have much to add in terms of how to fix the issues with the threads.

However I'm pretty confident that the damage to the cam cover bolt holes was not caused by the tensioner kit install (or shouldn't have been).

The broken bolt with the colar could be from the tensioner kit install and over torquing the bolt, but the camshaft caps wouldn't have been touched.  The valve cover doesn't get removed during the CCT replacement.

Very strange that those threads / bolt holes were damaged.

11 hours ago, CRFan250 said:

Well there you go!  Man if that seat had some firmer foam it would be a keeper though!  I broke down and ordered a Sargent....

I went from a Sargent to a Bagster. Sargent was definitely better than stock, but the foam to the rear of the seat was just too thin for me. Hopefully it works perfectly for you! 

7 hours ago, Bill H said:

HUH ?? 1000,is a thousand 🧐Einstein

You wrote "1000k" in your reply to the thread which implies 1000 x 1000... usually 1,000 would be represented as 1k. 10,000 = 10k 100,000 = 100k and so on.

"With a new Akrapovic exhaust system and ECU modifications, the 847cc motor goes from 115 to 140 horsepower."

I'm going to need to know more about that please.... 

6 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

...so while I could get more miles out of the fronts, I don't bother to (and honestly, at 15k per set, I feel I'm getting my money's worth). 

I agree that 15k per set is pretty good.

1 hour ago, BBB said:

It does have the advantage of easy adjustability, but that just gives lots of ways to make it worse.

This statement made me laugh.

2 hours ago, metallion said:

I logged on to hopefully find out some info on the gas situation also. I have a trip planned for the Smokies for the last week in May. Last night i was reading posts on the Tail of the Dragon Facebook page and it does not look good. 

I would hope that by the end of May things will be back to "normal" in those areas.  Losing the pipeline just slowed distribution.. then the news said there might be shortages.. so the herd flocked to the gas stations to make sure that the shortage actually happened.. regardless just need some positive news about the pipeline and things should be back fairly quickly.

2 hours ago, sabre85 said:

Got a big trip planed for 9 riders this coming weekend, May 14 thru 18. If you folks in the area (Gatlinburg south to the Georgia-N C state line and east towards Ashville Lake Lure area) have any updates about gas availability it would be appreciated.

Went through this a few years ago and it was a bit of a hassle. I know it all depends on the pipeline folks gettin their act together, just hoping that you can shed some light on just how bad it is. The news makes it sound like there is a "gas apocalypse" but they just concentrate on the big towns. How is it so far out where the roads are?

Any help would be appreciated!!!!!

Doubt there will be any improvement before the weekend.

1 hour ago, Clegg78 said:

I am curious why you would remove the insulating foam from the underside of the tank.... isn't it there to specifically help avoid heating up the fuel which can throw off F/A mixtures?

This has been discussed at length. Doubtful that the foam has any effect on fuel or air temps given the location of the tank and airbox.

2wheeldynoworks and vcyclenut (both tuners very familiar with our machines) will both tell you to remove the foam for better induction noise and increase in HP, atleast with regards to the earlier models.

If you are hesitant, then leave it alone... My FJ hasn't had foam there for 20k miles and I still love the induction noise :-).

Below is the link to the original post by 2wheeldynoworks regarding the removal of the foam...

How smooth the motor on the FJ is really depends on what you are comparing it to.  Compared to my old FZ6 (4 cyl) the FJ buzzes like an angry hornet... but compared to my old Versys (parallel twin) or my Bolt (v twin), the FJ is extremely smooth.  Some people are more sensitive to the vibrations than others. The vibrations only bother me if I'm at a constant speed for an extended period of time, but even then, I can usually find a speed or RPM that settles it a bit.  Either way its a minor gripe and generally a condition of most motorcycles to vibrate at some speed/rpm.

53 minutes ago, piotrek said:

Extreme Creations has 10mm spacers that are otherwise correct in other dimensions I believe. A note on there says that 10mm would be applicable to 320mm rotors. There is a member on here somewhere who was cutting his own 11mm spacers. I would maybe do some searching first before deciding. 10/12mm spacers will just move the pads to extreme edge of the rotor's wear band.

Thanks... I will search around. 

Just going EBC on stock rotors for now... may pursue the 320mm rotors at a future date. 90% of my riding is commuting so I'm not sure I will see the benefit of the larger rotors...