duhs10

1 hour ago, Bimbim18 said:

I'm very tempted to dremmel down the pins to the correct diameter lol . (bad idea?)

 

I would not recommend using a dremel the on the pins... no way to know if or how much you weaken them and a snapped chain at speed is no joke.

@Bimbim18 Order it from Yamaha or drop by a local shop to get it... or get a new chain.

Also, why did you break you chain for a tire change?? Not necessary in the future.

There is a turbo kit for the CP3 if you really want to go crazy...

https://www.extremecreations.com.au/yamaha-mt-09-turbo-kit

I have this relay installed... plug and play. Couldn't be easier.

It's not a GT, but I think @norcal616 the highest dyno confirmed HP on the forum. Woolich Racing ECU tuning and Graves exhaust.

Also @papac2000 got 112 HP to the wheel with a muffler mod...

I started out on a Ninja 500R... that ER-5 looks very similar to my Ninja but without the front fairing.

Welcome to the forum.

5 hours ago, duhg said:

OK, next challenge: photograph your bike a with publicly displayed art depiction of a mythological creature (dragon, yeti, lake monster, etc...)

I have an old one next to the dragon on 129.... too old to count.

Welcome to the forum.

3 hours ago, duhg said:

Today - this one counts.

Well done!

Now it's up to you, @duhg, to name the next target.

I got my akro second hand for a decent price... if I were to spend the money on a brand new system.... I would go with the graves or yoshi.

I really like the look (carbon model) and I also actually like the fact that it isn't loud. The only negative opinion I have about the Akro is how far the headers stick out to the front as compared to the stock and other aftermarket headers.

If you want a loud exhaust and are sold on akro... get the "ti" version as the baffle is much easier to remove than the carbon version.

21 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Since it’s been brought up again - still think that there wasn’t much wrong with the cylinder head on that engine.... his tech diagnosed that the valves and seats were prematurely worn, but the pics didn’t show that IMHO. 
Would have like to see those parts for myself. 
 

-Skip

I'm in agreement with you @skipperT... I try to give them the benefit of the doubt. Regardless, let's say that what vinnie experienced was 100% as described and the mechanic diagnosed it correctly.... it's still the only FJ I've ever heard of or that's been reported on the forum to experience that sort of damage/failure.  Tight valves seem to be common, but other than that no major issues.

We have a few members with 100k miles and climbing without any maintenance other than routine.

Congrats! I want one.

@Lisa Another option (if you like the stock screen) is a scratch remover / polish.  Novus makes a kit to remove scratches from plastic and ABS.  You can get it on Amazon.com too but I couldn't get the link to work.

Novus 7100 NOVUS Plastic Polish Kit | Quadratec

---

Scratched plastic windows are the first signs of wear on...

@JonEBlazeUnless you just really want a new bike. I would go with the '15 with all the extras.

6 hours ago, piotrek said:

I was describing the process for determining the oil level in a fork that's been in use. Fill the tube to say 140mm, go ride the bike for a week and measure again... it will not read 140mm.

Some oil will flow back and forth between the inner tube and the space between the inner and outer tubes as you ride the bike. Our inner tube has overflow holes near the top, so by raising the outer tube we are forcing the overflow oil back into the inner tube. Then collapse the outer tube and measure the level as normal.

i do this even on new fill, just to make sure I have all the oil where it needs to be before I measure.

I got you... Thanks for the explanation.

1 hour ago, piotrek said:

Lift the outer tube slowly all the way up to empty the outer chamber into the inner tube, then measure.

I'm confused by this statement... I was under the impression that you measure fork oil level with forks fully compressed (ie. outer tube as low as possible on the inner tube)

9 hours ago, duhg said:

I rode a friend's FZ-6 and enjoyed it very much.  It's a badly underrated bike IMHO.

I agree.  It really was a good bike.  Only sold it because I needed cash at the time due to purchasing my first home.

I also feel like the FJ-09 is somewhat of an evolution of the FZ6 (Fazer).  The '08 FZ6 had approx 98hp and just over 400lbs... similar power to weight to a stock FJ, but the FJ has much more instant torque as we all know.  Both are half faired. Similar seating positions although the FZ-6 was slightly more aggressive.

FJ-09/Tracer definitely better in almost all categories IMO.

I will try to track down some pictures later... I've owned 4 motorcycles.

'05 Ninja 500R

'08 FZ-6

'08 Versys 650

'15 FJ-09

The Ninja was honestly terrible looking back, but it was a very cheap started bike so it served its purpose.  I loved my FZ-6. The engine was SO SMOOTH. The Versys was a solid bike but kind boring. Then the FJ... 

@com3 I appreciate your sense of humor... Liked and Subscribed! 

7 hours ago, piotrek said:

Looks to me like an assembly/installation issue, causing surfaces to not mate properly and things to bind/drag. Have a look at how the caliper is mated to the bracket. It appears off-centre. Last image (mine) for reference. I would disassemble and inspect. Good luck.

I agree, @piotrek... 

2 hours ago, kilo3 said:

I don't think 2019+ has APS adjustments.

I think you are right... I missed the fact that it was a 2019.

1 hour ago, Yamajank said:

No...while trying to just obey a 30mph speed limit and keep it steady.  I can keep the speedometer at 30, but it doesn't feel like it's smooth.  I can't tell if it's suspension or engine or something else. I get the snatchiness of the throttle and differences of the a, b, and standard.

This motor just doesn't want to go 30mph.... it can be done but it will constantly beg you to twist the throttle and let it fly!

In all seriousness.... I would recommend a search on the forum for some of the fixes to smooth out the throttle and fueling (mainly APS adjustment) . I also recommend getting the ECU flashed if you are willing to do that to disable the O2 and create a closed loop fueling map. That will be the biggest improvement in fueling.

I carry a tire repair kit (tar stick type), portable air compressor, a roll up tool kit with a variety of stuff (wrenches, sockets, fuses, wires, screw driver), a flash light (technically a head lamp), and a set of foldable allen wrenches.  As well as the OEM "toolkit" if that even qualifies.

Reading through these makes me realize I need to pack the little tool that is used to adjust the Gilles Tooling axle blocks.

57 minutes ago, betoney said:

I wouldn't worry about it, I have never replaced plugs with less than 22k miles and even then it was only because it was a part of the valve service.  The plugs aren't as fragile as the owners manual would lead you to believe.

Yeah, I agree and am not worried... I was just being funny saying "oops."

24 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Yes. NGK CPR9EA-9 if memory serves. they really don’t need to be replaced every 8k mikes either - could probably go 12-16k miles before replacing under normal operating conditions unless a running condition crops up.

-S

I'm at almost 19k miles on the original set of spark plugs.... oops lol.

No issues, however. I'm going to get the valves done at 20k so they will be replaced then.