duhs10

@Salish900 its all good... next step is to look into risers if having them in that position doesn't work for you.

54 minutes ago, Salish900 said:

I'm sorry to say this thread has me turned around now. The first pictures by TexscottyD show the risers in one position that he says are not standard, or supposedly how they are supposed to be from the factory. That means that setting is further away from the rider. Ok, but then perolaforss posts the risers in the exact same position and says they are in the stock position? See my trouble? 

I've looked at them closely and mine are in the same position as both of those folks. The longer part of the rectangle is further from the rider. So which is it? I want the bars bit closer to me. 

 

The pictures are from different angles. @texscottyd's picture is from the front looking toward the rider and @perolaforss is from the rider's position looking forward. The risers are facing opposite directions.

To answer your question, if you want the bars closer to the rider, the angle on the risers should be facing the rider position. The top clamp is irrelevant.

@betoneythat bronze color with the red FJ would look sweet.

Welcome! Have fun with the new bike.

9 hours ago, WKE002 said:

waited for F900XR and finally it came, busy youtube with these bikes, no offered as it just arrived. look at Tracer, USD3,700 cheaper over F900XR and compared with the cost of spare parts, service and excitement, put my money on a Tracer GT and here am I in Tracer forum, no regrets of not getting F900XR.  whereas in many countries, you have MT-10SP , while here, the highest spec yammy bike is the Tracer. 

next bike in a FEW YEARS after Tracer likely be Vulcan 900

If you plan to replace the Tracer with a Vulcan 900 I think you will be disappointed.

If adding the Vulcan as a 2nd bike, then probably ok.

20 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

So essentially they could be claiming a maintenance free chain that lasts 5k.

Hell, just about any modern chain can make it 5k miles with no maintenance lol.... I do not recommend attempting this.

Sounds like valves or timing chain to me (non-professional opinion).

FWIW.... I had the CCT replaced under the TSB that was sent out (never actually a recall) and it only lasted a couple months before the cam chain noise was back.  I installed the manual tensioner 2-ish years ago and haven't heard it since.  Might want to give it a try.  I didn't realize how much noise the timing chain was actually making until I did the replacement.

2 hours ago, Bill H said:

well just got back and honestly it doesnt make a diff on or off,,and in a way im glad because unless i get into the habit of turning it off every time i ride Im sure as hell not gonna pull over when i feel like randomly lofting the front end..OK my theory is it needs to be re flashed ,,,so humming along 2nd gear around 5-6 k rpms right  in the sweet spot  and hammer throttle ,,there is a slight bog,,flat spot,,like your in b mode.,no way is it gonna lift,,so same thing this time pull in clutch,,rev up to 8-9 grand and pop clutch ,,it feels at first like its gonna come up but then as the rpms drop it bogs just enough to say ,,sorry no wheelie for you .Now i know newer bikes have longer frames but there is a definite  flat spot  that i  think is holding it back

This sounds like the TCS is still active... I know you said you tried it with it the TCS off... but what you are describing is exactly how the bike acts with TCS on.

1 hour ago, captainscarlet said:

I am awaiting delivery of a wind deflector, similar to the Puig item, ordered from Ebay.  I realise this varies depending on the individual, but what position works well for reducing turbulence at speed?  I'm just looking for some pointers for initial position that I might try.

CS

I have my Puig clip on deflector in the highest and closest position in relation to the windscreen.  This put the bottom of the deflector almost in line with the top of the windscreen.  I noticed more of a difference when adjusting the height as opposed to adjusting how far in front of the screen the deflector was and the angle of the deflector (as you can see mine is set parallel to the windscreen). For reference I am just under 6ft with a 32in inseam.

3 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I do super awesome rotating shift work, 12 hour shifts, switching between 7am-7pm and 7pm-7am every two weeks.  What is sleep?

Ouch every 2 weeks! I kinda feel your pain though... I work 5 on 4 off.  930pm-630am. Although my shift is consistent, I have kids that wake up at 8am.. so I'm constantly switching my sleep pattern on my off days.

3 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

It was a major issue I had with the Tracer after I traded my MT07 in, that it simply lacked the wildness of acceleration that the MT07 had.  It for sure accelerated significantly faster, but it felt slower.  The sprocket change fixed that right up. 

I'd argue you'd get similar results with an ECU flash as by stock the fueling is pretty lean at idle until it gets into closed loop mode.  This kinda damps down the initial kick off the line.  I've got a "Booster Plug" on the way, which purports to tell the ECU it's 20C colder and thus run 6% richer and fix that+smooth out the idle/low rpm low throttle irritability the CP3 has, at a much lower cost than an ECU flash and (importantly for me) not voiding parts of the warranty as it's quick and easy to remove.

Man... I guess I need to go ride a MT07 (been interested on them for a while as a 2nd bike)... I've always thought my FJ-09 (Tracer) was one of the hardest accelerating bikes I've owned... especially 0-60mph... 

If you haven't already, try keeping it in A-mode.

As far as being able to wheelie... my '15 FJ will lift the wheel in first and second easily. 

If Google translate worked... I think you said you are experiencing some black smoke out of your exhaust...

Black smoke usually indicates a "rich" condition (too much fuel).  Any check engine lights? Have you had the ECU tuned?

It can be done... not sure if you have a newer Tracer and what difference (if any) might exist.

Just started mine and let it warm up just to compare.. didn't get that noise, but also harder to hear faint noises over the rumble of the Akro.

I'm in agreement with @kilo3that it is most likely related to something expanding or adjusting to heat.

Does it happen after startup 100% of the time?

3 hours ago, SuperMax said:

Can someone tell me, please, what is the oil quantity that has to be filled in after changing the oil pan? Asking as I only have 3 x 1L (total of 3.17 quarts) cans of oil and with the oil pan and oil filter being brand new, just wondering if I would need a total of 3.4L (3.59 quarts), as the service manual mentions this value for the disassembled assembly.

 

I take "disassembled" to mean the entire engine... I don't have a definitive answer for you but I suspect the actual amount of oil needed after swapping out the pan will be somewhere between the 2 values (2.70 L and 3.40 L.

49 minutes ago, SuperMax said:

That is the correct piece, for sure. There are 3P mount systems for the Tracer 900, a wider one (thr one your posted), and a slimmer profile one (that only accepts SH35/36 case, not the SH23 ones) that doesn't need any additional part to connect to the footpegts (the mointing tubular L shaped bars connect only through a bolt to the footpegs). Schematics attached (fig. 15)

There's a slimmer profile mount for the SH36's!?! Do you have a part number?

I'm about to hit up SHAD's website.

Edit: "slimmer" mount is for '18s and '19s only.

Rear sprocket looks pretty good... front sprocket has some wear. Most will say to replace both sprockets with the chain.  You could probably get away without replacing the rear, but I would replace the front when you replace the chain.

It is definitely designed to be looked at and never ridden....

5 hours ago, Tripletrouble said:

I’ve found the problem, none of the above, but it’s sorted. 

Good to hear... can you provide some insight so that we can reference the fix in case this issue pops up again.

Welcome to the forum @Theo

The Tracer/FJ really likes to have the shift lever fully "reset" back to its resting point between shifts... if you have any pressure on the shift lever between shifts it could cause what you are describing to hapoen. This has been discussed many times on this forum.

You've had the bike for a while so I assume you are used to it at this point... Does this happen more often while shifting quickly between gears or at random times? Have you changed boots recently? 

Try adjusting the lever so that it comes to its resting point a bit above your boot.

No other electrical issues of this magnitude have been reported on the forum that I am aware of...

@charliewhen you mention "loom" I'm assuming you are referring to the wiring harness (as I know it)? Did that correct the issue?

2 hours ago, norcal616 said:

I'm already in the future 😆

Turbo FZ/MT-07... very similar peak HP/TQ numbers as its bigger CP3 sibling...

Very cool and fun upgrade... can you hear the turbo spool up when riding it? Always loved that sound...

2 hours ago, keithu said:

I don't recall seeing anything like that on my FJ-09, but I've seen bumpers like this installed on fuel tank seams. They prevent the metal seam from resting directly on a frame rail. Maybe check around the seam of your fuel tank.

This is what I was thinking...  I'm about to go inspect mine..

Perfect @keithu.... what's the next target?