duhs10

So, @piotrek, @texscottyd, @betoney... EBC HH pads ok with stock rotors?

Also... I know @pattonmeused 11mm spacers. Brembo sales spacer kits. 10mm or 12mm work with R1 rotors?

31 minutes ago, betoney said:

I haven’t noticed any excessive wear on the rotors or pads. I have been using the HH pads on R1 rotors for a few years and still have plenty of pad material on the first set of pads. 

I figured the pads would last, but my experience with ceramic pads (I know sintered are slightly different) on cars has been that the rotors need to be replaced prior to the pads.

Found the EBC rotors but at $200/each, I'm not sure its worth the $$$. 

What are your thoughts on EBC HH pads on the stock rotors? Should be ok I would think... otherwise I will just order the OE replacement pads and call it a day.

On 4/10/2021 at 4:13 PM, texscottyd said:

I actually did the big brake upgrade a couple of years back... about the same time I bought these Galfer steel lines.   

EBC 320 rotors, HH pads, and stock rubber lines:

I can hear the Sesame Street song playing in my head:  “One of these things is not like the others.  One of these things just doesn’t belong...” 

@texscottyd @betoney and/or anyone else that has gone with the EBC HH pads... have you noticed excessive rotor wear? Should I bother upgrading to the EBC rotors if the stockers still have life in them? Having a hard time finding the correct EBC rotor part #.

6 hours ago, Maytrix said:

Did you find out about your oil question ?

I never got an "answer" but I've had the APE tensioner installed for 3 years and have had 0 issues. Maybe one day I will get a new valve cover bolt and change it back to the original. 

Performance wise, I think you're fine. It would irritate my OCD having a dent in my headers/downpipe.

Anyway, glad whatever it was didn't catch the oil pan.... you would have written a much worse "Ain't that a..." post.

I agree.. when I read the original thread I was thinking to myself that you were a much nicer person than me. I would have refused delivery on the spot.

Glad to hear the dealer is getting it sorted.

@Warchild the anodized bolts on the rotors are a nice touch.

Found this on the interwebs...

Its due to the shape of the gas tank and how the gauge detects a change in level... Basically a cone shape. I think the newer bikes actually address it with an illustration.

Rope plug kit all the way. Never had one fail and I've used them on cars, trucks, and motorcycles.

2 hours ago, nhchris said:

Wow, you guys are exacting in your chain settings.  I get by using the motion pro tool with the sliding bar fully extended forward for maximum accuracy.  Sighting down the length of the bar is pretty telling if the wheel isn’t perfectly aligned.

My supposition is the chain running over the sprockets has several mm of side-to-side free play and will track out of absolute center much of the time.

It is obviously good to get it as centered as possible, but not sure digital caliper accuracy is necessary.  Then again, I don’t own a digital caliper!

I think you are correct in that eye-balling with the motion pro tool is good enough. 

However if you do have a caliper. The measurement is very easy and about takes the same amount of time as attaching the motion pro tool to the sprocket (probably even less time actually).

56 minutes ago, Your_Boy_Yuriy said:

Interesting thread here.

Anyways, what would be a good aftermarket replacement when the OEM part fails? 

I guess just buy off of a reputable supplier. lol

 

I have a set of Gilles Tooling axle block / adjusters. Really nice quality.... and they agree $$$$

25 minutes ago, betoney said:

One of the techniques I learned while riding on slick red clay is use MOMENTUM, you don't brake hard approaching the corner and then grab a hand full of throttle, you set your entry speed and use momentum (with minor SMOOTH throttle inputs) to get you through.

I learned to ride/drive with the same concept but stated differently. To state it simply, basically there is a finite amount of traction and it is shared between whatever forces you are exerting on the contact patch, for example turning, braking, or accelerating.  If you (you as in a general term) use the majority of your traction on one of those, then the amount of traction left for the other two is reduced.

Seems obvious now that I've typed it out... not sure how much it adds to this conversation lol.

When working on the FJ forks in the past... I was able to get the bottom bolt loose without using the cartridge holding tool thingy... just turned the fork upside down, put some pressure on the spring (fork caps removed) to add some resistance, and quickly turned the cartridge bolt to break it loose.

I have that fork cartridge tool somewhere in the garage.....

@Skidood

Throttle control / muscle memory is a big part of it. Also have you considered Flashing the ECU? There are several settings that are addressed that really smooth things out. If I remember correctly, much of the on/off throttle abruptness is caused by a setting which cuts the fuel to the injectors during deceleration to improve fuel efficiency. Disabling this feature with a flash makes a big difference. Several other settings can be adjusted as well to get what your looking for.  I used vcyclenut for mine... Now I have it start in "A" mode and literally never change it.

2014-2020 MT/FZ/FJ-09/XSR900/GT 900 tracer custom flash

---

store to purchase ECU flash for yamaha...

I believe you will need to cut the OEM spacer to install those. No first hand experience with cutting spacers though so good luck lol.

I have a set of sonic springs that are drop in as well...

I've installed Sonic springs and used the stock spacer without trimming it (maybe i did it wrong lol). Anyway,, trimming the spacer sgould be pretty straight forward. Can you post the link to the RaceTech chart so we can have a look and give some advice? 

8 hours ago, Buggy Nate said:

I would like to know how he knows the last mechanic set the clearance to intake spec, especially if the valve was tight enough to burn?

I think it was just a theory posed by someone based on feedback that the tech gave the OP to explain why one valve ended up completely burnt. No way to really know at this point.

On 12/20/2020 at 5:34 PM, betoney said:

...Dawn dish soap...

This is an underutilized all purpose cleaner.

I've also got a bottle of Motul Moto Wash that does a pretty good job.

@littlebruv

I switched from a Sargent seat to a Bagster.  The Bagster is more narrow at the rear than the Sargent. The Sargent sits slightly lower than the Bagster.  The Sargent is stiff and relies on spreading the load to achieve some level of comfort. The Bagster is a little more plush.  Overall I think the Bagster is more comfortable... the Sargent just doesn't have enough foam towards the rear of the rider seat.

I had a Sargent Performance Plus and now have a Bagster Ready Luxe w/ Bulltex foam.

I wouldn't be able to handle looking at that on my bike.. taking the forks apart is easier than you would think. I would go ahead and replace that sooner than later.

21 hours ago, koth442 said:

I've got a full Akro. I would prefer a different brand or preferred spending the money on suspension. 

The Yoshimura seems nice... If you're after performance, I think the Graves has posted the best dyno numbers.

Its a matter of personal opinion. If you want the exhaust go for it... I bought a second hand akropovic. No complaints. Adds a good rumble, but also not too loud as to piss off the neighbors. IMO the "can" on the Akro looks better than OEM, but I prefer the OEM headers. Just a minor matter of opinion.

I will say that you will see more benefit from the ECU flash than you will from the exhaust so I would recommend having the ECU done regardless.

12 minutes ago, rlambke19 said:

And why oh why did they switch the front brake reservoir to a cheap looking plastic cup. Let me guess - weight savings? Ugh.

Now that you brought it to my attention, I can't take my eyes off of it.... terrible

On 10/18/2020 at 10:57 AM, fjray said:

Are you sure it's not in B mode when this happens?  IIRC, the B mode not only has less power, I think I read where it also has a lower redline than A or STD mode.  Shocked me, but I don't worry about it by only using STD and A mode.

Unless that has changed... B mode is the same power and redline. Only difference is throttle mapping so that it takes more wrist to get the same amount of fueling.

Another forum member and I tested this via numerous drag races on a closed course ;-). No matter the mode the result and speed was basically the same. This was with 2 '15  FJ-09's.