piotrek

Assembled it. Double-checked all around and it is ready to go. Business trip next week, then family vacation... back March 19... hoping to get it out on the road before April arrives. Suspension, brakes, windscreen, exhaust... oh my!

Ordinarily would not have bothered, but... the tool tubes clear the outer edge of the tire by some 5mm on each side... so even though the brackets will probably never deflect enough (or suspension bottom that far) for there to be contact.... the brace will make sure it won't happen... me thinks.

No problem, or scientific evidence... but do not like how these cases bounce about on rougher roads. I pretty much load my SH36 to capacity on longer travels, and I have the tool/fuel tubes on there as well. Thought I'd reinforce the whole thing a bit, seeing how most other aftermarket setups feature some kind of brace between the sides. Plus it's winter... give me a break.

I use Stop&Go... fits neatly under the seat (red arrow). Need to cut off the plastic divider to make the under-seat compartment larger/continuous.

Installed AIS block off plates from Vcyclenut and fabricated a brace for my Shad side case brackets. Will get my new Madstad screen on tomorrow, put on body plastics, and that will be it.

I use a pin tool with my shock. See if one is available for yours. Works very well, but it is also pretty slow. I established three preset locations along the shock body by counting the number of threads showing. That will be close enough for me for now, and naturally... I will not be measuring sag with a tape each time I need to reconfigure the bike. If I need to spend a couple of minutes cranking the thing before/after a trip... no big deal. That was my thinking at time of purchase anyway. We'll see how I handle this during the course of the season. You might have to swap out a few bits on the shock to retrofit it with the remote.

Exhaust is done. It took a bit of effort in getting the mid-pipe onto the header stub, but on it went... albeit very snug. Testament to the quality of the mid-pipe maybe? All aligned nicely in the end and I am very pleased with the install. Great find @captainscarlet. If only I could hear it sing. The hanger bracket width was a bit short of the overall span between the mount points on the bike. I wasn't comfortable torquing things down in that state, so I fitted a 1/8" spacer (washer) on the brake side. Seems to be a bit of an oversight on Scorpion's part... or have I missed something? Another note... it is indeed possible to wiggle out the OE exhaust without removing the centre stand. A couple of glamour shots... love the low profile of this can.

I had this very same setup at one point... the Cosmo bracket and the SW-Motech GPS case on a long-ish RAM extension. I found that the rig vibrated like mad and there was a lot of glare from the case window. BTW... there is an updated (stiffened) version of the Como plate. I have a 'naked' Nuvi GPS mounted on a short arm, and use a Glare Stomper sun shade. I think the trick to this is to keep it short and light. Fingers crossed this works for you.

I am fully committed now. Adrenalin sent me a note this morning... shipped. Got my ~15mm, but man... it took some grinding.

Just for visual reference, lash measured on the two in photo below... 0.114 (tightest), and 0.165, left to right respectively. Two exhaust valves in the lot that came in at just about 0.20 did not show track marks. Needless to say... the work was very timely.

One more stab at this thread... really wish I didn't have to do that, but I poached some data from the FZ-09 forum and inserted my lash readings (highlighted) for the exhaust valves. All lash values in metric. Spec calls for 0.26 to 0.30. My final worksheet, with as-installed shim sizes...

Ventured to the FZ-09 forum, where it seems that this topic received some attention (here), and found buddy's worksheet reassuring. Could be that this engine bucks the trend in more ways than one. The thread is a good read overall, with some good hard data.

Gotta wonder what 'alarmingly' means. I noticed very slight signs of tracking along exhaust cam lobes where lash was very tight. Didn't think it required action, but certainly raised a flag for me. I will look in there again in ~25K km (15K mi), or two seasons.

Timely note @skipperT.... NOT! 😂 I checked photos of my parts layout, and have to believe these are correct. Lash checked out prior to closing things up, and the bike ran like a champ... but you have planted a seed of doubt that will be hard to shake until I can run the bike in the spring. 😭

More of a make-work project than a necessity, but useful... rigged my garage door remote to work with 12V power. Already had the opener board embedded in a small project box, but made some space for a tiny 3.3V 300mA voltage regulator, purchased here. Added power supply wires to connect to a switched source (the thing has a 2mA no-load draw). The other set of wires go to a push button switch at side of the bike. The opener fits neatly into the space next to the seat lock assembly.

Finally re-keyed my SH23 side cases to take the key from my SH36/48 set. A generous member on here donated a cylinder (I already had one), and I then modified the set as suggested by @kmev in an earlier post (ground some tumbler pins). Big thanks!!

Replaced my levers. This was really for the benefit of the clutch side... to make pull action easier. This install wasn't without issues. The seller sent me two black 'knuckle' parts for the lever, and neither worked well (made contact with the switch housing). I decided to swap parts with my shorty levers, and hey... it worked. I like the grey/red look, and best of all... clutch pull is much easier.

...or carry just the steel cable kit, similar to this. Reuse the outer tube... seems too convenient to ignore. Some assembly required. 😁

This... is how.

Converted my Skene Photon booster modules (formerly brake only) to the run/brake configuration, using this little gizmo. Prior to this I had my turn indicators configured as run/turn, using the same PWM modules. I did not like the run intensity behind the orange lenses, so I thought I'd try something else. For the indicators, I installed amber LED bulbs (600 LUM) behind clear lenses. Very happy with the setup. Skene modules under the top case base plate and clear lenses on OE perches. Location of PWM module... Lights in action... here.

You only have one size to pick from in the drop-down I see. Might have to look elsewhere or give them a call. SB8125L (A=16mm B=30mm) SB8125LL (A=23mm B=39mm)

Thread size is in the part number 😀... 8mm / 1.25. How is length noted with your suppliers? I can measure these if you'd like. Here they are listed as SB8125 (regular), SB8125L (longer) and SB8125LL (even longer) etc.

Speed Bleeder... makes the job easier and with no/less mess. The rear brake is a breeze either way, but this helps nicely with the front. Works quite well actually, with just 1/4 turn. The goop on the threads does wear out at some point.

Sorry... don't remember where I bought (last winter), but look-up SB8125L and SB8125LL (longer). There are a couple of reputable brands, Speed Bleeder and Goodridge. I found this application table... lists SB8125 for the rear, but the 'L' is a good length (in my previous photo). Front right OE bleeder has an o-ring on it... just an FYI. Replace it with the LL bleeder and done. Photo shows the two types used, and what came off the bike.

Standard. I considered stainless, but the bike never really sees harsh conditions and is pampered in the off-season. OE bleeder's been on there all this time and came out in perfect shape. I'd be putting stainless on my cars for sure. Lost an argument or two over the years.