piotrek

10Nm... image post failed miserably, sorry. 7.2 lb-ft... coat with oil.

Congrats on a successful project, and thanks for a nice writeup and photos. 👌

Beautiful bike... congrats and enjoy... and come back with ownership/riding impressions.

Another take... FortNine style.

This is the thread that brought me to the brink of ordering a set a a few years back. Questions remained, so I never pursued. Very good write-up though, and seems the OP in the thread was a happy camper in the end. I recall that he bought springs from another manufacturer and modified the spacers to suit.

Racetech online tool outputs 0.9kg/mm for your 78kg weight, which is 8.8N/mm, although I found RT spec a bit on the aggressive side. I am 90kg and run a 0.9kg/mm spring, and it works very well. Can you set sag with a little room to spare? CW to increase preload. That creaking could be the spring compressing and bowing off center... which causes it to rub against the inner tube. That is not abnormal, but than again... not able to hear what you're hearing, so YMMV. FZ09 board has a lot of information on the Andreanis. Have a read on there.

I ran 2.5W and 3W in the active leg, but valving is probably different than yours. No issues here with knocking in the forks or other unusual sounds, but what you describe could be the floating brake rotor just at beginning of the rebound stroke. Have a third ear available?... have them have a closer listen. 125mm is pretty high for oil level, and at that value I think you would be filling the outer tube as well, unintentionally. Riding is believing though... have a go and see how it feels. If you have any doubts about the assembly... take them apart.

Try tweaking the APS while you have the bike apart. Made an improvement for many on here. It can smooth out any throttle twitchiness that you may be experiencing. A-mode should be pretty smooth with the flash... the power just ramps up quicker as you twist the throttle, without being twitchy.

Good job. Your son is very good at this.

I used Pro-X shims in .025 increments. I opted toward looser end of the spec. May not be optimal, but it is safe and worry free for a couple of seasons or longer.

Bonus that the ECU remains unmolested. Nice innovative design... good option for legacy MT/FJ-09 owners. Not cheap... but convenient and leaves much of the control with the owner... and the footprint is tiny. Glad it's working out for you.

Standard mode as default, generally in the city and the burbs. A-mode (quick-turn) on the freeway (unless in traffic) and other fast roads where I need quick passing performance. B-mode on wet and gravel/dirt roads.

Sounds like a great trip. Stunning scenery. Thanks for sharing. 👍

Man... that is the fanciest I've seen. Nice work. I put less effort into mine... doesn't present well. 😏

AdventureTech bracket will work great for these lamps. Give Lily a scratch behind the ear for me... love dogs. AdventureTech @keithu...on second thought, these lamps may be too large/heavy for the bracket. I use them with the smaller 2" lamps. Noticed you have have the Givi bars... maybe somewhere on there would be safer. 🤔

...sorry, couldn't resist...

You won't be disappointed. I am not tall... but I can vouch for the product quality and design (adjustability). Make this the only screen you buy for your bike... trial-and-error thing could get just as costly... lived it. 😏 They run discounts every now and then... call them up.

Google Maps > KMZ > Base Camp > GPX (8 day-routes combined). A bit of a hack, but you can work with it. PM me your email address.

Tuners disable the AIS (if you want them to) by getting the ECU to force the AIS solenoid valve to remain closed. This is an easy way to close the system, and doesn't require any surgery on the bike. The solenoid valve can still leak or fail... I know, not likely. I simply chose to blank out the ports and remove components that no longer serve any purpose. Just another way of getting there.

Thanks @rlambke19... we averaged under 600 km/day. We could have certainly taken longer if time allowed, but we had just the 8 days in the schedule. Much more to see out that way. Syracuse NY is where the fun kinda ended... it was the freeway home from there onward.

That'll suffice. Interesting how this was all supposed to be just plug-and-play... it was that damned red ring that did it. 😏

Just for clarity, none of the tuners require AIS block-off plates. They can all toggle the same bits in the ECU. The plates are just a more reliable way of closing the system... and they unclutter the valve cover quite a bit. 🙂

David is alright. When I wanted to buy his AIS block off plates, he had no good shipping options to Canada. Called him up and he added an option to the check-out transaction. Thumbs up.

Thanks for the update. I would have thought that the re-flash would yield a more subtle improvement... not quite transformational that you describe, especially considering that you're running ActiveTune. I will be sending my ECU to Vcyclenut for a re-flash in the winter... expectations are high then 😂.

Replacing the bolts with a skewer will put a different kind of strain on the bracket welds. You'll be squeezing the brackets toward the centre, rather than independently locking each side. Just a thought.