piotrek

We have options... but we naturally end up gravitating to places with best prices and service, and so FortNine wins almost every time... for me anyway. We also have (some local to GTA for walk-in) Royal Distributing, GP Bikes, Parts Canada, Kimpex etc. Twisted Throttle gouges and no longer offers free local pickup... but sometimes there may be no better choice. Out your way, you have Motostarz and Bayside Performance just to the west. I've ordered from both, but shipping is usually pretty expensive. There are probably other options.

You're right... DID not coming up, but they're there. Chain is 525 VX 110 links and sprockets are 16T front and 45T rear. I bought the front sprocket without the dampener.

@hammer... FortNine is a good source. I bought DID 525VX and sprockets from them.

Welcome to the forum bud... just know that we're all very... very... biased.

Are you happy with the length of the OE line from the front MC? I recall you have risers and/or a taller bar... you might want some more flexibility in routing this line, as the ones you show will match OE mount points and likely the length as well. You may have an option of ordering a longer line with this kit. I didn't need a longer line, but opted to route differently from factory to buy me some slack. Just a thought... before you lay down the cash.

Hmm... know of no such law on this side of big water. Very popular mod on bikes and cars alike. LED bulbs generally draw less and run cooler. These bulbs are meant to fit a 7443 socket. Heat on LED bulbs will be generated at the base (driver circuits), but still outside the socket cavity. If you're talking indicator flash rate... then maybe hyper-flashing indicators will attract LEO's attention. LED flasher relay will fix that.

AdventureTech (bottom of the page)

I swapped the OE amber lenses to clear, and then fitted switch-back LED bulbs. White DRL and amber when blinking. The effect is pretty cool. Had to mute the DRL intensity with 50 ohm resistors... but I am very pleased with this setup. Bright and very visible over a wide angle.

You may need the sensor on your exhaust if the tune requires this input. My tuner (and several others) disabled the sensor input to be able to better control AFR and smooth out the throttle response... so the O2 sensor on my bike has since become a glorified anchor point for the slip-on.

Timely post... like the cleaned up look of the O2 port on your bike, so I ordered the plug. Sensor input is "disabled" in the flash, so hopefully ECU wont throw an error code when I unplug the thing, but if it does... I will rig up a dongle.

I am jealous... waiting for some parts to tear into my car next weekend, but projects are otherwise completed. I am curious to see what was included in your Galfer set. As I noted earlier... it was slim pickings for hardware in mine. That's where you could run into snags.

WRT the Scorpion... its claim to fame was that it would not require changes to the factory map, so we're in a bit of an uncharted territory. My bike was initially flashed for OE exhaust (AIS active to save the catalytic etc.)... so maybe I should've just left things alone, save for disabling AIS. Hard to tell now.

I did nothing different than I would have normally done on an unmolested system. The bike was off. Takes longer and will consume more fluid. Watch fluid levels in reservoirs as you fill the system. NOTE: Close the front master reservoir cover as you work the lever... the fluid will squirt upward. Patience is your friend.

Food for thought... I reached out to David at Vcyclenut about his slip-on maps. He confirmed that he develops them with the baffle (db killer) removed, but that the bike should "run great" with the baffle in. Would be interesting to know how other tuners do this. I am inclined to think they only do it one way so that the maps can be as universal as possible. This could explain things a bit. 🤔

Right... but I suppose the point is that while the preload adjuster will alter the ride height to a small degree (spring spacer size is varied, as you rightly note), it is not there for this purpose. The shock in @betoney's photo is a good example in the rear, where the preload and ride height are independent adjustments.

Preload adjustment is not there to substantively alter ride height. Preload is meant (with the right springs) to optimize suspension travel (without bottoming out). Once you have suspension travel optimized, you can then move the forks up/down in the clamps to set desired ride height... or you could do these in reverse order. If your springs are correct, you will not need a lot of preload (I have one turn)... but might still need to alter your ride height.

Weary of doing this after having the ECU re-flashed... but sometimes butt dyno don't lie. I will report back if/when I break down. I don't personally discern any particular loss or gain after the re-flash... but it's been months in between.

I bought my set with the bike, through Yamaha dealer... but then added SH23 cased through Kimpex back in 2017. There was a time when they stopped importing these, and now they're stocking again.

Tempted... and on stand-by... but it reminds me a little bit of the air box foam surround mod... 😛

These are very are nice side cases, but size/width-wise... kinda look like they might be equivalent to Shad SH36. For this same Shad mounting system, a smaller set of inexpensive cases (SH23) is available for the everyday/commuting etc. See this thread for comparison. I am not necessarily promoting Shad per se (their support in NA has been inconsistent), but this type of setup/solution has served me very well. I switch to the large boxes on week-long outings (~3 times a year), and otherwise the smaller cases are always on the bike. Just a thought.

Wow... is this for real? Did your re-flash account for the holes in the baffle? Hard to believe that this baffle would be more restrictive than the OE can with the catalytic converter, but maybe. I recall that @betoney had his ECU re-flashed by 2WDW for the Scorpion... wonder what their dyno charts would show. I recall a very favourable review then. I do have a 3/16 bit that looks bored.

You don't need anything special to bleed the system, it will just take a little longer overall. I used the good old bottle and hose setup. Speed bleeders really helped during this procedure, but doing it old-school will work too. You will have to take the bike for a spin and work the brake system to activate ABS several times. I still had some air after my first outing, but it was all gone when checked after my second run.

In my experience... I was able to achieve good compression and rebound damping performance with just the one OE leg re-valved, but I also managed a decent performance with OE valving prior to the upgrade, with the right-sized springs, and much thinner oil. I re-valved because the range of adjustment was very limited. My selection of oil viscosity was more biased toward the compression damping performance (because it's fixed), and the rebound damping could then be tweaked because it's adjustable. Of course, you'll need to start with the right springs. YMMV.

Hey @skipperT, sounds like a bit of an adventure. FWIW, people upgrading springs on Andreani carts end up cutting spacers (compensate for longer springs) and playing with oil viscosity in the C-leg to adapt them for street use. Oil levels will make a difference too. Reports are positive in general. Looks like things are starting to come together for you. 👍

I had the bike all apart for maintenance so had it all in the open. In any case, to complete alternate routing I needed to have the airbox out of the way. Might also help you in removing OE lines. Once you remove the plastics and the tank... might as well give yourself some extra space to see and work.