piotrek

Thanks for the report... good to see things worked out as planned 👍. My experience with Spot tracking is similar to yours... but It is their service fees and terms that annoy me more.

Section 10 in my 2015 MY User's Manual has a service record table. Is that what you're referring to? Hardly and space on there for any informative notes IMO. You can just create your own record table and have the dealer enter updates on there. I just maintain a spreadsheet with notes and collect the receipts etc.

Have it on my bike as well. Initially purchased a CustomLED flasher relay, which worked well until I installed switchback LEDs (made all turn signals flicker). The TST Industries relay fixed that.

Super glad to hear. 👍

Wish your pads a long and happy life then... 😃 In fairness, the M12 x 1.25 thread on the guide pin (caliper side) is easily crossed when aligning things, but I agree... if it don't go in by hand... 🤔

@hammer... I am in Mississauga and could pop in to compare and for reference measurements if you'd like. Brake parts that is... Today (06/06) afternoon works for me... or tomorrow sometime.

I remember this guy and the chatter on the FZ forum. Pushed me to check my valves a bit early, and I am very glad I did. This is a great engine, but I would just advise on checking valves a tad earlier than what the maintenance schedule calls for. Let it go for too long, and if the factory put the engine together on, say... a Friday before a long weekend... could become a problem.

Sorry... didn't catch that. You're right, it will be affected... but you never know by how much until you try it. Going slightly heavier with the oil might buy you another click or two in the rebound circuit, and not affect the compression damping to a point where you're unhappy with it. I guess the whole point is... if I were in your shoes, I'd explore how I could inexpensively fix what I have before spending big money... but I know... the force... it is strong. 🙂 Something else to consider... your rebound circuit might come back to its former glory with just new/fresh oil (same viscosity). Two years of hard riding will affect its properties.

Depends on the range of adjustment that you have on the compression valve. That's what it's there for... if the oil is a bit too heavy... back off the screw to compensate a bit. If the harshness goes away... you're done, and if not... you get your wish. 😉 It was a $500 mod... I am sure it can be improved with a $1,300 set of fully adjustable cartridges. Comes down to cost-benefit thing really... and very subjective.

I was describing the process for determining the oil level in a fork that's been in use. Fill the tube to say 140mm, go ride the bike for a week and measure again... it will not read 140mm. Some oil will flow back and forth between the inner tube and the space between the inner and outer tubes as you ride the bike. Our inner tube has overflow holes near the top, so by raising the outer tube we are forcing the overflow oil back into the inner tube. Then collapse the outer tube and measure the level as normal. i do this even on new fill, just to make sure I have all the oil where it needs to be before I measure.

If the maxed out rebound screw is the real issue, and you can live with the compression screw as is, then just dump the oil and replace with something a bit heavier (higher CSt@40C). Do that before servicing the rest of it. Make sure to note the original oil level. Lift the outer tube slowly all the way up to empty the outer chamber into the inner tube, then measure. If the new oil works well... then replace the seals, bushings, refill etc... and save cash. Oil can make a big difference. It is super easy work. I am assuming you have all the specs of the original build from Matt? If you really, really want the comp screw in the cap though... this might turn into a regret in a hurry. If you're not doing the service yourself... do you already have a quote for the work (with, and without the re-valve)?

Sounds like a lot of progress... congrats on your new bike! My wife was also voluntold to assist over the weekend to set the sag for my touring and pillion setups. 3 threads visible for everyday/commute, 4.5 threads for touring and 6 threads for my 90lb pillion w/light luggage. A full turn is about a full thread, so I just made a sharpie mark on the ring for reference. Works out to 35-39mm sag from unladen. Good to know these so that you can always be in the ballpark without having to measure or guess. Feels great across the range.

Is it possible that the first assembly was off kilter and damaged the piston/caliper on first hard use? That first set of photos showed the caliper not sitting quite right. Could be worthwhile taking the caliper apart to inspect for damage. Anyway... curious to know what you find, and good luck with the repair.

Looks to me like an assembly/installation issue, causing surfaces to not mate properly and things to bind/drag. Have a look at how the caliper is mated to the bracket. It appears off-centre. Last image (mine) for reference. I would disassemble and inspect. Good luck.

Glad you found your way (kinda) with the Nitron. I remember that mine came from the factory set at 12 clicks out (CCW), and it felt like it wanted to punt me off the seat over bumps. I progressively backed it out until the rear behaved (17 clicks), and then adjusted the front to suit. The damping clicker has a range of 24 clicks... experiment. 🙂

Pretty much closes the case for me. An incorrect application for the spark plug. It was operating on very margins of acceptable spec. Reason NGK selector tool would not output the plug as an acceptable alternative.

Apparently, but only under certain AFR/timing conditions etc. I could redline the bike in STD and B modes without issues.

I don't think the plugs actually failed. Maybe the 12 months of service altered the plug properties enough to affect ignition under certain conditions (A-mode at 7,000RPM). I installed a slip-on in 2019... but all else was the same. Would be interesting to know the WHY for sure.

Good idea to choose a product that stands off a bit from the surface of the rad so that the guard can absorb the impact and deform without causing damage behind it. Some guards install flush with the rad... not ideal. Good investment IMO.

They work great wired in parallel. I was fine with the Oxford Heaterz, but managed to destroy them during removal... so decided to try the Heat Demon route. I have heat levels set at 1, 2 and 3. Level 1 is great for OAT ~10C (with summer gloves)... and levels 2 and 3 are much warmer and should work great in cooler temps. Some kits came with the left and right pads different. Mine were both the same part number. Kit included a heat shrink tube to install over the clutch side of the bar. Pleased thus far.

Really enjoying my Heat Demon mod... but do have a question. When I shut off the bike while the heated grips are active, they come right back ON the next time I start the bike (at the same/last heat level). Is this correct? I would have thought the grips would default to OFF upon re-start.

This was a seemingly legitimate upgrade (better performance, longer life etc.). There is a thread on here somewhere with NGK sales rep (🙄) claiming compatibility, so several members switched over at maintenance time. There was no reason to expect issues... and there were none for a year. Should have trusted their selector tool... and Yamaha instead. I have come across spark plug/coil/distributor failures in the past, but this was a completely new thing to me. The engine sound and the loss of pull, and the set of conditions involved was a head scratcher. Should've, could've... whatever. Good lesson... won't forget.

~ SOLVED ~ @skipperT hammers it into the net, and @phpaul gets the assist. Gone are the iridium plugs and so is the problem. Thank you. I first ran the re-flashed ECU through all the diagnostic tests (all checked out great), and then rode the bike with the iridium plugs. Sure enough... the issue resurfaced, with no error codes. Replaced with NGK CPR9EA-9 and the bike sailed past 7,000RPM without a hiccup. For interest's sake... photo of the two electrodes below. I don't recall having this problem before later last year, with the plugs at ~30K kms. I will stick with the stock plugs. NGK rates them at 30K miles.

Yes it can, but best (and cheaper) to do this at build time. I recall it was a ~$200USD premium to add at build time.

It's just a hair under 6mm. I think you will need a tool with the straight and angled pin end combination to make this work. The fit needs to be precise for the tool to be effective.