piotrek

My Nitron has a similar preload ring I think. I use a pin tool and it is quite effective. I have to alternate between the straight and angled end as I work the ring. Works for me. Maybe K-Tech has a similar tool or could refer you to a third party solution. You could probably adapt the Nitron tool but would have to grind the ends to fit the holes in the ring. Would weaken the tool though. Good luck.

Seller link changes... but have a look here. There may be other sources.

My RPHA70 came with a pinlock... did no good as my glassess fogged up. I removed the breath deflector thingy and just crack my visor and/or fore vent open. Not ideal... but acceptable in most conditions. Only really an issue closer to freezing OA temps.

I use the ones in photo below. Scales match up on each side... and accurate within 1mm when wheels/sprockets are aligned. With these things... I trust, but always verify. There is also a margin of error on the swingarm marks.

Use the same tool on my 2015... works great. Oddly enough... tried to use it on my buddy's 2017, and it would not work as the coupling was different.

Same here... and primarily so I could brace the screen bracket to the stay. You can see a thin, flat washer poking through at the bottom bolt, between the bracket and the stay. There is already a nylon OE washer at the top, so this is just to equalize the gap top to bottom and reduce stress.

...and it takes a minute to remove... if only to gain clear access to the manifold block behind it. I would be going with Spiegler if I were doing this again... for proper mounting hardware, and grommeted lines. I assume you had no issues there?

I received a letter from my insurer (Ontario, Canada) offering discounts on vehicles no longer in use, or infrequently used during the pandemic. My daily travel was reduced from 100km to a set of stairs... will be getting a rebate.

Nice shield. I was forced into one when my other barn door (Kappa the wind catcher) became prime suspect of having broken my dash stay. I think that for it's size, the Madstad still looks decent. I use my 22" panel (at lowest setting) with the X-Creen Tour deflector that I removed from the old setup. The Madstad on its own worked very well, but the combination made it just right. The deflector is not so much an extension of the shield, but it manages buffeting very well and can be adjusted (offset/height and angle) while sitting on the bike (say a stop/ light). I still see over the screen comfortably.

...and after all, it's the thought that counts 😜

I replaced it with a BMW-style socket... but having said that... it's been pretty unused because of the terrible location. A bar mounted USB will be much more useful 👍. I use mine all the time when touring... will even sometimes tether my Cardo to it directly from my helmet as I ride.

Ha... I wave to the BRP guys, and them scooter people too. We're all just trying to have fun in the open air. That said... I don't know if I've ever waved to a guy washing his bike in the driveway... I would certainly respond to a wave. I do notice that in the first several weeks of each season, we're all so excited to be out riding that everybody is waving to everyone they come across. Pretty sure it's a universal thing. I do a fair bit of riding in the U.S. each year... get the waves all the time.

Hmm... no longer have these, but still cheaper than a new TPS. I recall that the gap on the Iridium plugs was just a hair smaller than the spec.... I left it alone. I paid attention to how the meter reads the dip... and it looked legit and repeatable. 'AUTO' on the meter did not flash and scale remained at Kohms. I can only measure the sensor resistance with the setup I have at the moment. The schematic shows wipers W and B as common. Found it odd... but okay. I appreciate the advice and the dialogue @skipperT. I can't wait to discover that this will turn out to be a simple fix. Fingers crossed.

Part of ECU re-flash to improve throttle response and performance in general. This was a worthy mod on 2015-2016 bikes with throttle response issues. Not sure that would be necessary on the GT for that particular reason.

I will know in a week or so... waiting for my ECU. I am told it won't throw a code/CEL... we'll see. Sensor is disabled in the ECU flash.

Interesting. I came across an issue on the R1 forum, engine making a rattling-like racket at higher RPM. That was due to a bad EXUP valve... which we don't have on this bike.

I was able to conduct this test more slowly, and can repeat the condition on the one suspected pot. The meter doesn't show open, but resistance dips in consistently the same spot, and as measured in both directions of the sweep. It dips to 0.17K somewhere around 1.8K. Throttle plate positions are different depending on which direction of the sweep is being measured. Not even sure any of this is an issue, but it is what I am seeing. This is still all present in STD and B modes. Have some measurements to share, but these are fixed minimum and maximum values and don't quite tell the story, but for reference... The ECU was already re-flashed and the condition did not go away... appears unique to my bike. You'd think it would have come up on another machine at some point if the flash were bad. I could not find anything resembling what I am experiencing. Plugs are fresh... Iridium CR9EIA-9. Have been running these for 4 years now. 91-94 octane fuel as available. ECU did not throw any codes that I could see... but I have not checked for any stored codes. Will have to force the condition and take it from there.

I will get methodical with this once I have my ECU back... but the one constant appears to be ~7,000 RPM. It's either that or a particular throttle (grip and/or plate) position. More questions than answers at the moment.

Thank you all for chiming in with ideas. I will continue to simmer in these, and once I have my ECU back I will get right on with the task of narrowing the issue. Engine knocking did cross my mind, and APS/TPS remain in the crosshairs. Will try different fuel octane and tweak my APS... etc. etc.. I sent the ECU for a re-flash (for the exhaust) in February and mentioned this to Dave. He was doubtful that the re-flash would fix the issue... and he was right. I have experienced this in gears 2 through 5... that's not to say it's not there in the others, but I just haven't been there. The bike works great otherwise... starts great, fuel consumption is OK, pulls hard, doesn't burn oil, plugs are clean etc. I suspect this to be fuelling/ignition related. @betoney... the quick-turn, or 3/4-turn was explained to me as ramping up to full throttle in 3/4 of a regular full twist. I do suspect it has something to do with the issue... and maybe repositioning the APS could fix this. TBC

Make-work task... deleted the O2 sensor.

I am chasing a nasty gremlin. When in A-mode (flashed, quick turn), something really odd is happening when I get to 7,000 RPM. The engine sounds like what I can best describe as a rattling can of nails, the RPM gauge remains at ~7,000 RPM, and the engine stops pulling/accelerating... but doesn't die or sputter. I don't detect any jarring, clutch slipping etc.... just loss of acceleration and the awful sound. All returns to normal when I ease up on the throttle. This does not happen in any other mode. I can comfortably and predictably take the bike to the red line in STD and B modes. The bike otherwise starts and runs very well and I continue to ride the thing. Detected this issue at the end of last season, and thought it might have been an issue with the quick-turn map, but I am told that this can not be the case. Suggestion was that TPS might be defective, but I am having a hard time understanding how it would affect the bike in only one mode. While I am waiting for my re-flashed ECU to return from Vcyclenut (not related to this issue), I tested both outputs of each sensor (there are two in each), individually and in parallel. All values check out and are within spec. Sensors remained on the bike. I also checked for values across the sweep for each sensor output. Of the two sensors, APS readings for each output were gradual and consistent as I moved the throttle from closed to open and back, using both slow and quick action. No issues with APS that I could discern. When exercising the TPS (moving the throttle plates from closed to open and back), one of the outputs wasn't consistent, i.e. the meter would show open circuit for a fraction of a second in various positions (mostly toward 50% open). It was difficult to capture because of the very brief instant when this occurred... and because moving the plates was more step-like than linear. Anyway... thought I'd share and see if anyone has ever come across this. The only electrical mod that I can think of that integrated with these circuits was MCCruise (APS), but this issue did not exist until late last season. I will disable CC and see what happens.

My range test ended at 378km, with 63km of it on reserve. Rode in B-mode at 100km/h (cc)... things we do for science.

FWIW... the service manual shows ohm value to be different for each sensor, and measured across different set of terminals.

Yup... these guys are pretty much setup for domestic market (walk-in locations in my area). Industrial supply and surplus items. They will ship to you, but it would be a one-off, and therefore expensive. Harborfreight should have something similar on your side of the fence, no? I bought a MC dolly from them some years back.

Absolutely should happen.