norcal616

Nothing wrong with either bike, suspension is needed but I can live with it... I have already built my GT long before Yamaha released one by copying what the forum peeps wanted... I would buy a FJ-09 over the newer bikes to save cash to build the bike to me vs spending the extra for a newer bike and still having to spend more to build it to me...

A turbo option would be nice 😀

I don't see much improvement, just different colors, maybe a little refinement of the electronics package... I really hope Yamaha actually starts using a 200# test rider as the majority seems to need heavier springs vs a 140# test rider 🙊🙉🙈

I really wish they would use the latest electronics used in the actual sports bikes, just better refinement but I understand it would increase the cost a bit... maybe one day this little motor will find itself in a crotch rocket chassis, its a nice blend of twin cylinder torque with the 4 cylinder RPM horsepower to give a huge usable powerband... 

I usually fill just to top of sight glass...run the engine for a min or two then I check the oil lvl a min or two after I shut the motor off... I have a chunk of 2x4 wood that I pop under the kickstand to tilt the bike more vertical for oil changes...

Just give me an adjustable (able to rotate the meter housing) old school analog needle sweep style gauge... So easy to give a quick glance and see if the needle is pointing vertical or not to shift... 

I'm probably one of the few who ride in A mode with TCS off... Big difference in how engine behaves in my opinion when TCS is on vs off... I do use STD mode with TCS off if I just want easy/lazy throttle control... 

Once in awhile when "we go out and cruise" TCS has to stay on because I use the hidden feature called LaunchControl 😆

Normal... It's a safety thing... It's easier for another to judge your distance with a dim and bright headlight setup vs one big singular looking light... 

Mine was missing also- dealership had it stashed in a parts drawer neatly labled 😁

Both MCruise and Brandon Dist used the same stuff but had different switch blocks/harness to operate the CC... I have used both but went with Brandon Dist... 

MCruise .. still works with Woolich Race Kit if you have ECU tuned to use the Race Kit... Race Kit is QS for both up/downshifts, launch control, etc...

4 hours ago, BBB said:

That exhaust looks amazing. Is there any reason to put the O2 sensor back in, or is it just to fill the hole? And what is the other blanked off port for ?

It's for a wideband o2 sensor for tuning/data logging...

I will try to post some pics later today on how it looks(colors) after approx 9k miles... IIRC it took about 2.5k hard miles to really set the color of the pipes... 

I highly approved of this exhaust choice... Them welds are pornographic tho... Headers/midpipe barely weight more than skimpy lingerie... 

11 minutes ago, gv550 said:

I have the little plastic tool pouch under the seat, it has the helmet lock cable and one 12&14 open end wrench in it. Is there supposed to be any other tools in the pouch? I do have the Allen key, screwdriver bit and handle attached to the seat. 

That's it... The early years prior to the rear remote preload adjustment, we got a special 2pc tool to adjust rear preload manually... That's what I know... 

This problem seems to only happen when that person takes his/hers hands off the handlebars when slowing down in gear(what gear/RPM?) but does this happen in N ? 

New battery...stock lasted almost 4yrs here in Michigan... Never put on battery tender... Finally died (wouldn't hold a charge or provide enough oomph to turn over)... Had to jump start the bike last night to get home...tried to bump start but the parking lot surface was not working in my favor...

13 minutes ago, betoney said:

Very interested in hearing how it runs after the exhaust and flash, I have heard that the Graves system with a quality fuel map makes a VERY noticeable difference.  I believe @norcal616 has a Graves full exhaust?

Yes Graves Exhaust using Woolich is route I went... It's been almost 4yrs since 2WDW created my tune as it was the 1st time they had a request for using Woolich vs FTECU... Nothing wrong with FTECU but at the time the Woolich race kit was hard to beat in value... No separate tune needed for running with/wo baffle... I also have AIS block off plates... 

Bikes will have lower running temps in general when the big ole heater box(cat convert) is removed... 

Quite a few places like that round here...one RV campground owner banned motorcycles on his property after his son took his own life riding one after they got into an argument... 

One campground banned all "power sports" such as quads, boats, jet skis, motorcycles because a group of renter's tore up the gravel road doing "stunts" and showing off one day during the off season somehow... 

Mainly I am getting the idea "motorcycles" do not project the image the condo owner wants for the property 🤨

It's pretty much stocked in stores in my experience vs 525 ... Yes it's lighter, etc.. 

You can even switch to a 520 chain size if you also switch sprockets... That's my plan... 525 is an odd size and 520 is pretty much universal from R1 to dirt bikes... 

On 8/8/2019 at 5:44 AM, norcal616 said:

There is enough clearance to run near the edge of tire ... That's past lvl 3 fun 🙃

Thinking about this: I would not recommend going out and hitting lean angles to go past lvl 3 fun just because it was shown on the forum... For me, I'm comfortable with the rear tire slipping/sliding, etc as others may not even like a "lively" rear tire behavior...

There is enough clearance to run near the edge of tire ... That's past lvl 3 fun 🙃

Remove the windscreen... Otherwise you will go crazy 

1 hour ago, nhchris said:

Intereting @norcal616.   

I wonder if using the red button for shut off will keep the fuel system energized until the key shuts it down. This might improve fueling for the next start cycle over the short term.

Just a theory...

I think it's more of how everything is "synch up" the moment it gets shut down via the red button... To me if I shut the running motor off via key and go back to turn the key on, the fuel pump kicks it in like its running an idling motor due to red button in ON position- so when I go to start it back up it seems like it's just turning over a few extra times to "synch up"...

I don't think one is better than the other but we are cursed by habits... 

Other reason can explain longer than normal starts such as kinked breather hose(should hear the unique airbox whine if hose is not kinked)... Also CA bikes have an EVAP cannister which can do a random weird thing when gas tank is super full sitting under hot sun for hours...

Simple wipe down of the gear sensor solves the problem... Mine was coated like triple dipped candy in grease... I Wiped it off and put a light smear of grease back on sensor face...

Sensor is located behind front sprocket cover just above the front sprocket...

This is me: I can feel the bike settle a bit when I roll off the gas, same feeling when I get on the gas- I can feel the bike trying to pick itself up... This is on stock suspension... 

A Giraffe is slightly faster than a rabbit- I kinda relate the FJ-09 to a giraffe- yea it's "legs" are a bit wobbly but it moves 🙃