Dark&Stormy

I've a Scottoiler Vsystem. It works ok, just get used to always having oil specks flung all over the rear section. Im using ATF in it right now, its a light weight oil that flings off easy. I may try gear oil next batch. I still hit the chain up with Motul chain paste once in a while

As far as breaking the old chain. I grind down the rivets with a Dremel and pop the plate off with a large screwdriver. Takes about 2 minuets. Yeah i just grinded down one rivet and used the motion pro chain breaker.

My thought exactly! It just looks that way. It could be the tacky grease that came from factory.

All finished. The Regina chain was interesting to install. I chose to use the solid link which involves flaring the pins with hammer and punch included with the chain installation tool. Lots of swearing and a few shashed thumbs later the chain is on and aligned.

[quote author="@fj29er" Was able to find a RK excel tool on ebay used for about $60. Made replacing the chain so much easier!! (just checked ebay, there is one on there now) You did good.

I could have sworn it said it needed the heavy duty rivet tool, but now that I look at it again, it does not mention it. It must have been for another chain I was looking at and I got confused (getting old). My bad. I was also looking at the Motion Pro chain tool. Let me know if yours works; I am waiting on a back tire and an OEM front sprocket so I have some time. Also, if you don't already have one get one of these (well worth the money): https://fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool Im tempted to order the Regina Chain riveter tool. I already have a chain breaker and this is almost half the price of the motion pro PBR tool. +1 on the chain alignment tool. https://fortnine.ca/en/regina-chain-assembly-and-rivet-tool-805199?gclid=CjwKCAjw9e3YBRBcEiwAzjCJumKMe5_fpBCZ1MLLY5ouQwsNVhJt9lxK21OYFqwOh4wSuosqTfbYQxoCabYQAvD_BwE

What are you using to break your chain and rivet the new Regina chain? I understand that the solid pins on link supplied with the Regina chain are pretty hard to rivet so you need a heavy duty riveter. Did you do the job yourself? I plan to replace the chain, sprockets and rear tire at the same time on my 2016 and I am looking at similar hardware but need to buy a chain tool that will work with this setup. Thanks in advance. My parts are still in transit. I was planning on buying a breaker/riveter kit most likely the Motion Pro kit. I didnt know Regina chains were hard to rivet.

Lol i looked at those this morning but the shipping rate to Canada was a deal breaker for me. I hope they work for you.

None of the dealers in my city had an OEM front sprocket in stock... nor any aftermarket sprockets either. So I ordered an undampened bikemaster steel front sprocket , a JT steel rear sprocket, and a Regina ZRT Z-ring chain from Fortnine.ca After some pondering (and a good long ride) i decided to stick with the stock gearing.

I did both. When I bought the bike I installed a 15T, when I recently replaced the chain and sprockets I went with a stock 16T front and a 47, (+2) in the rear with a 112 link chain. The ratio is fairly similar, either way you go its a nice improvement for the way I ride, it might not be for everyone. So do you feel a difference going this way verses the 15t? sprockets not wearing as fast?

Lol ive made my bike heavier and less aerodynamic so no need for me to cruise over 100mph.

Perhaps, but i do a lot of highway and long distant rides. Wouldnt that increase my rpms at highway speed and lower my fuel range?

Here is my grossly worn out sprocket. If i understand this correctly the chain links ride on the rubber and that is supposed to quell vibration and noise.

Im well over due for new sprockets, my stock sprockets have 30000kms on the 2nd chain. My question is should a get a front sprocket with the OEM style rubber dampener or just a regular steel sprocket? Ive read some mixed reviews stating the damped sprocket causes wierd harmonics as well as the regular steel sprockets also causing noise and vibrations...

I eventually got it to fit. The barkbuster clamps arent sitting as flush as they were intended to be but it works.

@shigeta did you manage to install the backbone without unpluging the clutch safety switch? I cannot get the clamp the line up with the backbone unless i unplug that switch.

Oooh thats a nice looking system and you get to "break in" the finish too.

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone knew the tread diameter and pitch of the mirror studs? (ie M8 X 1.25) I'm going to see if i can find some male-female standoffs locally.

I finally just caved downloaded a pdf of the service manual. https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/280196478-yamaha-2015-2016-fj09-fj-09-tracer-900 I always figured with my luck the moment i paid actual money for it i would be able to find a pirated copy online. I had no problem finding FZ-09 and XSR900 service manual pdfs free online. Its searchable, zoomable, and is a blatant photocopy of the real book, but for $33 CAD ($25US) you cant go wrong. I can print off that pages that i need (if i owned a printer that is), keep a copy on my phone, or on my email account.

You'll likely be taking the wind right in the chest instead of the stock screen which sends turbulent air right to your head.

Has anyone seen the Yamaha sport screen? It's two pieces and I think it looks pretty awesome. P-) http://japan.webike.net/products/21996751.html

I'd like to share my Powerbronze adventure sport screen. The finish is Frosted Stealth Grey which is almost an exact match to the matte dark grey paint on the side fairings.