angrygirafe

43mpg is the sweet spot for me. But like Wintersdark and Betoney, I bought it for fun, not fuel economy. That’s just a bonus 😁

And I thought I was lucky for just getting yelled at for doing 85 in a 55 construction zone while lane splitting at night.

There’s a Tortilla Flat ride east of Phoenix here that’s pretty nice, but it gets busy and turns into dirt road halfway through. No badass here, I just hate being in a car. I’d rather cook lol

I ride year round. Warmest I’ve seen the FJ claim was 124F while sitting at a red light. It was a little toasty. I haven’t explored too much to the south; I usually head towards the mountains in the north for some cooler weather 😂

I’m in Phoenix. There’s good riding in Arizona, but you have to make a day of it to get the good stuff, and it’s still not as good as what you’ve got 10 minutes away 😂

You live a great place for riding. I don’t miss much about California, but the riding there is second to none

Ha! Malcom Smith did a lot of my maintenance when I was in Cali. Heading south go up to Lake Matthews, and take Gavilan Road and Santa Rosa Mine Road to the 74, 74 to I5 and home. It’s a longer route than it needs to be, but those first few roads are quiet with a few twists in them. You’ll enjoy the bike without having to wring out the throttle

Whelp. I made it 3/4 of a mile before the engine died, light came on, and fault 60 was displayed. Fortunately it’s a little hazy, so only 92 degrees pushing it home. Cold shower time. I’m convinced it’s a loose connection on that YCCT sensor circuit. Or I should say “more convinced”, since Skipper basically narrowed it down to that already. I’m guessing a shorted ECU would not let me get out of the neighborhood and up to 4th gear before remembering it’s broken. Will pull apart the ECU connector next. After a beer. Or two.

Omg you guys, it lives! So, I’ve had a bit of a hiatus. Starting to get warm here in Phoenix, and there was some landscaping and attic electrical work I needed to get done before that kind of activity becomes fatal. This afternoon I got back to it. I didn’t remove the suspicious pin from the plug, but I did unplug and replug the YCCT Servo. Key on. NO ERROR?!? Fired it up, and it caught! The idle is a little low, but not bad. The gas in the tank is now 5 months old and the airbox is off, so maybe that’s it. Gonna put it back together, and if it still works, a test ride is in order 🙂

Now THAT is proper use of a traffic circle

Dude. Do a quick search for “engineer” on this forum and see how many times you mention being one. Methinks Rovari isn’t the one proselytizing...

I feel like traffic circles are designed specifically to tempt us 😂

It depends on the state. Some require you to disclose IF your are carrying, others do not. I don’t think there are states that require you to disclose your permit if you’re NOT carrying at the time. I always disclose if I’m carrying regardless of the state requirement, because I don’t want any misunderstanding about my intentions. I usually open with a very loud and clear “Sir, I am carrying a concealed handgun at” and specify where on my body it is. In Wyoming, the handful of times I got pulled over they were super cool about and we talked carry preferences for a few minutes 😂 Haven’t been pulled over in Arizona yet. I feel like they probably won’t be as casual about it here in Phoenix.

I like that you’re planning on getting pulled over 😂 Kill switch, kick stand, stay on the bike, with the heels of my hands on the bars and fingers raised. I keep helmet and gloves on as I’m not removing my hands from the bars until I’ve confirmed the officer is okay with me doing so. I also ask permission to reach for my wallet. I’ve never had to remove my helmet so far. And yeah, “yes, sir” “no, sir” “my apologies, sir” has kept me out of tickets so far.

It should be. God help us if riding in a heavy rain compromised the electrical system 😂 You ever been riding through standing water and had a car come the other way? It’s basically the same thing, but with dirt and debris instead of soap. It’s fine 🙂

Ran out of time today before I got to figure out the connector. I can’t tell if I got the lock all the way released. It popped out a little, but I was hesitant to see if it would go further. I’ll try and fashion a custom paper clip and watch some videos at work tomorrow (hooray desk job) to see if I can get those pins pushed back. Really hoping the ECU didn’t get shorted. It looks like the male pin it got pushed against doesn’t get connected to a wire (the female plug has a silicon plug in that pin) but no idea if that male pin is connected to anything in the ecu.

Spoiler alert: still Fault 60. I got the pin straightened out decently, and also pushed the obstructing plastic away from the female pin on the other side. It just kind of slid back, like it was a broken piece. But it did clear the pin. Plugged the unit in, turned on the key, and it still showed 60. Cranked it anyway, but no dice. The 60 does disappear while cranking, but comes back once I stop. Got into Diag mode, still no changes for Diag1 or Diag13. Diag61 showed two errors. I rocked the switch and it cleared one, one still pending. Unplugged the ECU again and the pins were still straight. Checked then connection at the servo which was solid, then checked continuity from there to the ECU plug, which was good. But maybe the female pin is bent out or something since the plastic seemed damaged. I’ll try and look at that closer tomorrow.

Oh man, I feel special. I noticed that pin days ago, but assumed it was fine since it was bent so neatly. But you know what they say about assuming. Female connector looks fine. I’m guessing the pins in it are similar to a Molex connector if I need to try and pull that one. I will *very gingerly and with great fear* try to straighten that pin tonight. Pucker factor of ten. Thank you so much for the walk throughs. Whether this fixes it or not, I owe you a beer (okay, a bottle) if you ever come though Phoenix. Will report this evening! I hope I’m not the brute, but since I did ride it home from the shop, I believe the evidence points towards me. The locking tab on the connector is all sorts of messed up though, so it’s definitely been handled less than gently in the past.

Okie dokie, I snuck out to the garage for a few minutes and scored some additional poking. I started with the YCC-T Servo plug (hopefully, it's got a half circle in blue just incase I'm off), and the plug and socket looked good, and were firmly attached. I then did a continuity check on my meter, and verified frame to ground, and the ETV fuse block non-powered side to one of the R/W wired on the larger ECM plug. So moving on to the pins. On the large connector, Pin 7 (red arrow) is folded down agains Pin 18 (blue arrow). I did notice this the other day, but because it looks neatly folded I assumed it was normal. On the plug side, the slot for Pin 7 is much smaller (red arrow), then there's an extra hole between it and the slot for Pin 18 (blue arrow). The slot for Pin 18 is enlarged. I checked the YCC-T Servo wires next, with continuity from one to Pin 8, and the Other to Pin 7. However, nothing is plugging into Pin 7 since that blade is bent to Pin 18. Looking at the back of the wiring harness, it looks like Pin 18 is sealed off with a silicon plug, so unless it's internally connected, that servo is only halfway connected. I couldn't verify internal connection with the safety pin I had, it was too small for the large slot. But I can find something tomorrow. Could this be my culprit? Obviously I'm hesitant to start bending the pins on the ECU around, in case it was built that way. The plug side looks way strange with the different hole sizes and the extra hole though.

Fuses totally make sense. I started measuring across terminals until realizing some wouldn’t necessarily have a path to ground unless controls were being manipulated so started checking them to ground on the battery. The kicker is there isn’t anything I’ve done to the bike aside from the teardown. It’s had the weak idle since the first shop in November, but I think we’re safe assuming busted vac cap is the culprit there. Things I’ve unplugged since having it home are the battery, front turn signals, fuel pump, ECU, and every fuse. Today I added the APS sensor to that. Everything has been plugged back in for diagnostics or start attempts. New battery currently installed. I have a few electrical and fueling mods, but nothings in the last few years. APS sensor position adjustment I think was 2017. Yamaha heated handgrips installed 2017 I think. Second Yamaha branded 12v accessory outlet in 2017. ECU flash (2WDW), and charcoal canister delete was summer 2018. At the same time I installed a tail tidy, new brake light with integrated turn signals and flush mount front led signals, all from Motodynamic, including a flasher relay. Everything else is cosmetic or bodywork related like windscreen, hand guards, luggage, etc. A lead for a battery tender junior has been on it for years, but not used religiously. It’s old enough the tender may be toast, and I haven’t connected the leads back to the bike with the new battery installed. The ECU connectors are kind of a pain. Not much slack in the cable. Could I have pulled a wire loose disconnecting those you think?

Okie dokie, I got some data. Since you're suspicious of the ETV fuse, I looked a little farther into it. The fuse IS fine, and if you're on the left side of the bike, the RIGHT terminal of the fuse block for that fuse has 13V to ground, key on or off. The left side has nothing to positive or ground, key on or off, and so not surprisingly, there's not measurement across the fuse terminals. I'm tempted to stick a piece of 14ga wire between the terminals, but since there's problems, that idea also scares me. The DIAG mode was interesting. I've never checked 1 or 13 before, so I'm not sure if those are supposed to change. DIAG MODE Throttle Closed Throttle Open DIAG1 16 16 DIAG13 17 17 DIAG14 14 98 DIAG15 13 97 I checked the Connector and Plug on the APS sensor, and measure values from the Plug to ground with the key on and off, with the plug oriented as the picture shows, and numbering the slots 1-4 starting from the left. Slot 1 had 12V to (+), Slot 2 had continuity to ground, and Slots 3 and 4 each had 5V to ground with the key on. I checked the connections as best I could, but as I have never personally removed the air box until today, it's unlikely I screwed up any connections underneath it. From what I could tell, the way the cables are taped to together they can't reach the wrong terminal, at least, not without another cable being unable to reach anything. And since I did ride the bike home, I'm guessing none of these are wrong. Anything else I should be looking at in here? Or is that DIAG1 and DIAG13 seem wonky since there's no change with throttle position? Thanks

@skipperT, thank you for the list! I have replaced the ETV fuse, both with a spare, and one from the turn signals that are working. No luck there. I’ll start double checking through the others tomorrow; about to go visit some family for the evening. I really appreciate the suggestions though. I figure it’s got to be something I did since I rode it home from the shop, and I’ve been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what.

Thanks Skip, that does help a bit, and it's encouraging to know that at least that is normal. Guess now I need to decide if I'm going to take it to shop yet again and hope that this time it comes back better instead of worse, or just light it on fire in the back yard and be done with it.

The drama continues. I got a new battery installed, and still getting the Fault 60 on the dash. It's trying to start, and it sounds like it almost catches a few times, but nada. What's really bugging me is if I get into DIAG + INFO, and scroll to 60, it shows 00 - no data. I did go to 61, and it scrolled through a handful of numbers. I went to 62, and toggled the start switch to reset the errors. Now, 60 shows 00, 61 shows 00, and 62 shows 1. The dash still shows 60 during a normal startup. I can't think of where else to look. I've checked EVERY fuse at least three times, ohmed EVERY fuse once, cleaned each 7.5 amp fuse with contact cleaner, replaced the ETV fuse with a new one. Ohmed and cleaned that. Replaced the battery. Hunted for sensors that I might have disconnected. The only things that I can think I unplugged are front turn signals, ECU, and fuel tank. ECU gets plugged back in to test, and I've tried the DIAG + DATA mode with the fuel tank unplugged and plugged back in. Only thing I can think of is maybe I pulled a wire loose in the one of the ECU connectors? That'll be fun to trace.

I always just filled an MSR fuel or two bottle and shoved them in a pannier. It’s cheap 🙂