dazzler24

Thanks Tom. I guess it's a possibility but I'm thinking not, at least in my case. I say that because it was a matter of recycling the key to get me back up and running. I know that there are reports of people bumping it into the off position from time to time but not me in this case. Worth a mention though. 👍

Thanks Skipper. Numerical order of course! Guess that's obvious really, now that I'm standing back looking at it...derrr.🙄 Yes, I'll be putting DIAG 61 & 62 on the list every time I service the bike from now on. Ha! Looking forward to the ABS trick. Way safer than getting it to activate the old fashioned and riskier way. Cheers for the help and advice. 👍

Just a quick addendum to my previous post - Thought I'd go through all of the checks (that I was able to do) in DIAG mode and am pleased to report that all of the parameters are withing spec so that gives me a little more peace of mind. For those who might be interested enough to check your own bike and have a service manual the procedure starts on page 9-6 (in my manual at least) and is headed DIAGNOSTIC CODE: SENSOR OPERATION TABLE. This is the first of several pages - You'll have to be in DIAG mode before all of this of course. Just remember to have your start/stop switch in the off/stop position to begin with then follow the bouncing ball in the table. Also would pay to have a battery tender attached as per @skipperT's advice. N.B. that this is for the 2015 model and is done all on the screen with no OBD required.

I appreciate you commenting on this as it has educated me just that bit more on the ins and outs of this bike 👍😁. Firstly - I'm glad (sort of) that you've experienced the key thing too. But to be clear, when you say "had that happen to me too", do you mean an engine cut-out or key not fully dropping into the on position? And yes, I have a couple of things on my ignition key ring to try to minimise the problem but there are times (obviously) that if they fall into a particular position on insertion then I can get this difficulty in free turning of the keys and have to fiddle until it's right. Might have to minimise further and get rid of the Yamaha bling tag! Secondly - So, after absorbing this useful info, here is what I found: - 1. DIAG CODE 60 revealed no history = good. 2. DIAG CODE 62 revealed that I have had 9 'error' codes in history. 3. DIAG CODE 61 revealed that those 9 errors were - 13, 15, 21, 22, 25, 41, 42, 59, 89. I'm a bit surprised I don't see a 19 in there - isn't that the side-stand error? I've forgotten to put up the side-stand on more than one occasion! Unless I'm not fully understanding how these errors are displayed. Question - As this displays ALL of the errors since a last reset and the errors show sequentially in a 'circular' fashion, is it the first or the last error code that is the latest one experienced? Some of those errors recorded could have been from a couple of jobs/mods that I have done over the years and may be red herrings as far as the problem experienced is concerned. I've been doing my own servicing and have never reset DIAG 62.... until now as follows. Then I've gone back into DIAG 62 and erased all of the history and then checked that it reverted back to '00' Can I assume that if it happens again I should have a clean slate to now work with? Thanks very much for the info @skipperT. As always, full of useful info and advice.👍🍻

I bought one from a local distributor here in Oz. It was branded DRC and was advertised as being for MX bikes. It cost me just under AU$50 so I'm hoping that it is of better quality. It appears to be of a higher quality finish and the switch certainly responds to just a press of the brake now as opposed to my cheap one. EDIT: - I know @betoney has this one from Spiegler and swears by it. Might be easier to source from where you are too if you're interested in changing brands? I do like that it is right angled which makes it a bit tidier but of course the straight ones work just as well.

Thanks Tex. Yes, I reviewed my on board video of the ride and can say the engine cut right at the precise time of hitting a bump in the road. I had hit many bumps before that mind you but that one may have been enough if there was something barely in contact as you say. These bikes are so reliable I guess I got a big surprise that it just cut cold on me. Before I'd even come to a stop I was already thinking of the time of day, the heat (I was stopped out in the open - no shade) and how I was going to get the bike back home so wasn't thinking about diag codes at that point. I'm tending to lean towards agreeing with you though to put it behind me and carry on riding.

Yes, I wonder how many people have fallen for this trap while reasonably thinking that the screws were just corroded in there. I too was ready with the junior hacksaw before trying the applied heat which resolved it for me.

Tell her it's a safety enhancement that may save your life one day. 😉

OEM as per the Part Shark link above. So yes, XSR900 slipper. 👍

I went with this Part Shark kit from the US Oz. It was a bit cheaper back in 2019 but hey ... that's the way of things these days. It really is a worthwhile investment IMHO. Soft clutch lever, slipper advantages when both decelerating and accelerating. Here's a thread that may help/tempt you.

I've been trolling around the interwebs trying to catch some clues on this issue and one I came across was to make sure that the ignition switch is positively in the on position as there were reports (anecdotally) that that could cause an engine to stop unexpectedly. I did note that on two occasions yesterday on my ride that I had to turn the key just a tad more to feel it notch into position prior to startup. Ignition lights did come up but the key wasn't quite 'locked' into the on position. I don't know if this was a contributing factor but thought I'd throw it out there in case someone else had experienced it or could comment as to the likelihood of that being a possible issue. @skipperT? On a side note and in retrospect I wondered why the bike didn't lock up the rear wheel when the engine just stopped dead. I'm guessing I can thank my aftermarket slipper clutch for that.

I've replaced them with a socket head screw type with split washers - NO LOCTITE! Just seemed like way overkill to use the red stuff on a couple of 5mm screws that hold a light little switch.

Ok, have opened, lightly sanded and cleaned the side stand switch contacts - they looked pretty good really. But not until after nearly rounding out the 5mm hex button head bolts that secure it to the frame. Argh! Bloody red loctite! When I realised what the problem was, I applied some heat via a mini blowtorch to the bolts and they came free thankfully before I completely buggered the Allen key hole. A little tip if you're doing this is to either use a air heat gun or if using an open flame then move the rubber fuel breather and overflow hoses away from where the flame is being used! The open ends of those tubes are right next to the side stand switch! Checked and cleaned the clutch switch rear contacts - looked fine. I wish that I had a positive handle on what the cause was as now it's just a go ride and hope it doesn't happen again situation. Especially if in traffic.

Hi Dan, If you don't get what you need in the other thread where you've asked someone (aras) who has already done it then come back here and we'll see if we can assist. It would be a very straight forward install.

Yes, that's a good point - potentially.

I've just looked at where the side stand switch connector is located in the service manual and it's in the area where the rear brake hydraulic switch connector is located - I installed a new brake switch very recently! Could be coincidental but will definitely check that I haven't disturbed that connector tomorrow. Hmmm...

Normally closed by the looks of this from the service manual.

Yeah, that's the thing, I got a check engine light but didn't check the fault code before turning the bike off and back on again. A little pi$$ed off at myself as that would have given the clue.

Thanks OZ, Since writing this I've been wondering - tip over switch and/or side stand switch. Do you know if the side stand switch can be serviced? i.e. taken apart and cleaned?

Don't think it would be too hard to measure 2plus3 as those hard lines run along the inside of the frame where you can see/feel them as you know. You could measure along the outside and get it damn near right. The lines that would replace them can have some 'fiddle factor' and don't have to be within a 'few thou' to work perfectly. In fact if you'd changed your handlebars and the height of same you may be better off going the custom route. I have changed my handlebars from OEM and adjusted the height as well and found that my 'kit' lines were a tad short and I had to adjust things accordingly so.......

When I say manually I meant the old fashioned way as described by the skipper in step 1 above. I too must look into the step 2 method as that may save me some nervous sweat and butt clenching in future (as opposed to skill and bravery)

I went for a leisurely ride today and all was well for the most part. I was (thankfully) on a back country road with no traffic and accelerating in 5th when all of a sudden and without warning the engine cut out! I looked down to see that the check engine light had come on and I drifted to a stop on the side of the road to take in what had just happened. Without trying to restart it immediately, I attempted the I.T. 1st principal of turn it off and on again. Thankfully, all of the expected things happened on the dash and I was able to restart and ride home without further incident. Very odd but very confidence shaking as well. I'd thought about taking the freeway home before it happened and glad I hadn't as that could have been a real 'problem' if I'd lost power there! The only thing that I'd done that I could think of that might have caused the issue was that I had filled up with fuel ~5mins before it happened. Surely not?! Anyone had this happen to them and more importantly, what was the cause and fix if known? I was so unsettled when it happened that I didn't notice if there was an error code thrown up before I did the reset. I'm a bit annoyed at myself for not having the presence of mind to look first. Can I check that in a menu somewhere? - does it hold a history of error codes? My bike is the 2015 model. TIA

That's interesting regarding the sliding experiences. I wear 'Bullit' ATGATT jeans for some riding and RST textiles on other occasions. My jeans slide a little more on the seat than my textiles BUT the textile pants do have a couple of small, but strategically placed, non-slip patches in the derriere area as per photo which keeps me relatively planted - so to speak.

That someone would be me Tex - (The saga described here) And yes, their kit uses seven lines and re-uses the hard lines under the tank. It definitely was a PITA to install the interfacing lines to the hard ones but the quality of the HEL product was top notch so can't fault them there. And just to be clear, HEL does offer a 'custom' order where you can simply tell them the line length and fitting you require and they will make a 'kit' up for you so you could have the five line kit if desired.

For me, no is the short answer. I used a vacuum bleeder to draw the fluid through and while it took some time to get all of the bubbles out I had no real issues. I did however, deliberately activate the ABS both front and back (manually) just to be sure and then did another bleed. Re-reading my earlier comments I did have some more bubbles to clear on the 2nd flush after ABS activation.