dazzler24

Not having the 320mm rotors but changing the pads to the sintered variety and installing braided brake lines made a big difference over the organic OEM pads and lines for me I know - but yea, the rotors do look very blingy and we know we all secretly like that🙂

I know this is not the original posters problem but I think you were trying to think of the so called "Gronk" noise Grumpy where the cushion rubbers of the clutch basket were on the way out?

Just got back from a really pleasant ride myself. 25 deg C with no wind or traffic - bliss. Good to hear you're back in the saddle 2plus3. Not so good news about your ongoing pain issues though. And by the size of that meal in the photo, you won't be squeezing into your Transit 2 for much longer! Whoa! 😉 Looks pretty tasty though.

It does sound like the fan is now faulty but to prove it you could use the test method for the fan as described above and included below BUT I would insert a 15A fuse in line from the battery positive to provide some safety. If the fuse blows then you have confirmed that the fault lies with the fan.

So, out of pure curiousity of what actually are the forces applied to a band I found this.... If I've understood this correctly (and I probably haven't!), the force applied to the clamp when the bolt is torqued to 19 ft/lbs is thus..... 2 x 3.4159 x 19 ft/lbs =~ 130 ft/lbs. No wonder you were unable to turn the cap!! ** Engineers - please confirm or alternatively feel free to deride me accordingly.

Having said that, it's all that holds the front together while we pound our way down the road so I guess it's not hard to appreciate the clamping forces that must be exerted via those 4 clamp/s. Also, while the bolt is torqued to 19 ft/lbs, the force applied by the ring of the clamp is significantly larger. I'll leave those calculations to smarter folks than me to determine. Anyway, good to know it all worked out for you. 👍

Ha! You're on to me heavy. Maybe this is what actually happened.....

Yea, I must admit I thought the same about the white too when I saw it in the flesh. But I also like the basic black look with the gold accents. Ditto for me too with respect to your reference about our vintage 2015 bikes. While our bikes might a look a bit dated compared to the T9 GT the price differential is hard to justify - for me at least. They did look pretty though. 🙂 Yes HGP, it is very hard to justify the large outlay in cash for the newer bike especially when (in my case) virtually all aspects of the vintage bike have been upgraded to GT specs anyway. New suspension, cruise control, slipper clutch, etc. Have you ever considered a suspension update on your beast? Much cheaper than a new bike for a similar ride experience. Similar story adding a McCruise too.

I found myself in my local Yamaha dealership today while my wife mused herself in the nearby 'shops'. The devil appeared in the form of a salesman and tempted me with these '23 model beauties....... I do like the much more refined look of these later models compared to my vintage '15 Tracer. Over here ~$25K ride away.

This -> " Yeah, we really need to clarify exactly when the fuse blows. Does it pop right away when the key is on or the bike is started, or does it pop when the fan is supposed to run?" Anyway, here's the info you need from the service manual to guide you through if still required. The circuit is straight forward in that it is Battery positive -> 15A fuse -> fan relay -> fan motor -> ground. As @bwringer has indicated - "..I believe the fan relay is the one hiding on the right side of the bike, next to and about in the middle of the top of the battery, under the seat plastic seat spacer. " It is the easiest one to get access to. If that proves OK then I'd be looking for that connector that goes to the fan (shown below as #96), pull it apart i.e. remove the fan from the circuit and re-test. Sounds like a bad relay - all things being equal and there are no shorts - but this info should be able to guide you through the process. Good luck and please let us know your findings. HTH. 🙂 Fuse , Relay and Fan...

Seconded!

That was my first thought on reading this. I'll find the technique I used when reinstalling the clutch cover to ensure that the push rod engaged correctly with the lever. I'll be back....... OK here is my post on how I aligned things to get a working clutch. HTHs EDIT: - there's other advice tips in that thread from the learned community that may/should help as well. Good luck.

Ah yes! "Nightmare on Elm Street" comes to mind recalling my experience with this scenario! I may have even invented some extra-colourful words during that exercise! Interesting read on @Wintersdark experience of reverse plumbing!! That would have definitely been a 'new pair of undies day' immediately after the testing terror. Imagine if it had been the front that was reversed!.......

Nice review of the 2023 Tracer 9 GT....

Yes, the Arrows are $$$$. While I'm happy with the build quality of my Arrow, if I had my time over again I probably would have opted for one of the less expensive options.

FWIW - I went for an Arrow X-Kone system some time ago - It looks a lot like the Black Widow mentioned here. (probably why I like the look of the B.W.) The can of the X-Kone is 300mm in length and I wouldn't want it any louder than what it pumps out and that's with the baffle in. As always YMMV. Just for fun - here is a you tube of the X-Kone can with and without the db killer compared to the stock sound. Not me, just an example.

Sounds and looks good IMHO. Is that with baffle out?

This thread will probably be of interest to you then 🙂

Thanks for the potential tip. I will have a look in the area you've mentioned in case connections have corroded/loosened. Having said that, I've been out a several times since the incident and (touch wood) it hasn't occurred again.

Great tribute Tex. The passing of loved ones is always hard on those who are left to grieve. Again, lovely memories and tribute.

I might be stating the obvious but FWIW - something that might be worth noting for some people is that delivery might depend on your location anyway. This snapshot from the UK site only shows delivery to the UK and Europe.

I know that this info won't help you with a 2019 bike but you can do it via the diagnostics on a 2015-16 bike. My point is that there is probably an equivalent function via an OBD device. Another option is to simply break the connector and apply 12V directly to it if you just want to be sure the fan is OK.

If you do a search in this forum for "Brandon" there are several references to their CC that might help you.

This guy's back to tempt you again isn't he!

Cooler for where I'm at is 25C(77F) and under with 60% and under humidity. We started out the other day at 22C(72F)-bliss and it warmed up to around 28C(83F) in the middle of the day - still good with the lower humidity as the air starts to dry out and we move towards our Winter. Yes, the closest we come to a pail of calcium chloride is this stuff and its many cousins and we use them in the hot heavy humid months inside the house to keep the mould (mold) away/reduced. Same main ingredient.