dazzler24

Lovely photos as usual. 👍 I was going to ask the same question about that sprocket cover but the "...waiting for my laziness to pass" does it for me too.

When the power goes out here, I too don't have any running water - but for a different reason. I live on a block that isn't serviced by town water or sewerage services so rely on water tanks with pumps to deliver our water and a private sewerage system that also requires power to operate. It is necessary to have a generator in those circumstances but mine is only a portable 3500W inverter so I can start mine by hand if required. It'll service the essentials so good enough for us . Maybe the only thing that separates our circumstances, on occasions, is a mere 80 degrees C! 😲😉

-36 C !!!!! 🥶 I took a look at the temperature of my freezer and it's 'only' -18 C. How does anything outside even survive in those kind of temperatures?! Wow!

Larry, As the 1st owner has done some work on the bike, he/she may have also done an APS adjustment that many of us here have done and that is referenced in this link. If so, there is a possibility that the APS was not snugged up again on adjustment or that it was on the 'edge' of adjustment. As I said, this may or may not have been done but the referenced link may help in your diagnosis either way. Good luck and please let us know your findings.

You're painting a wonderful image in my mind there betony. 😏👍

I hear you. I have a son-in-law from the cold climes that says it's warm at around 20C when I say it's cool to getting cold. All depends on your perspective from where in the world you live I guess. 😏

Think I'm going to opt for one of the higher capacity batteries (or equivalent) when the time comes, as they will fit - without the foam spacer installed - 2015 version at least.

Normally it would mean a high coolant temperature but that doesn't apply here it would seem? Maybe you temp sensor has failed or it's a by-product of your flat battery? I'm only speculating on that though.

I was hoping that no one would ask me the question about the cSt spec because sadly I didn't ask at the time - I had a bike shop do the job. But, I did give them info on recommendations that I had found on the interwebs where it was stated that the C leg should be in the range of 11-14cST@40C (2.5-3wt) with the R leg remaining with 19cSt@40 (5wt) I can remember that I'd gathered that info some time ago and filed it away for my own reference but don't have any links unfortunately. Not 100% certain of my spring rate but fairly confident that they were 7.8 N/mm (0.8kg/mm) units as I did order them for my weight and riding style at the time (2017). Speaking of which - 85kgs (~187lbs) kitted out. Might a bit more now! 😲 HTH.

I have the Andreani kit (Model 105/Y07) installed in my 2015 and while they were a vast improvement over the OEM stock I found there was a further improvement (for my weight and riding style) when I changed to 2.5wt in the compression leg while leaving the rebound with 5wt. As always - YMMV.

Thanks 2 + 3. As usual, you are full of useful and well thought through advice. Check my replies inside the quote above. Cheers.

The first two on your list and the valve checks were on my mind as possibilities as well. It'll be interesting to see what you find.👍

The temperatures are climbing here again at this time of the year (35C+) and on my last two runs I've noticed an undesirable issue that's crept in to harsh my riding buzz. What has been happening is that after stopping at e.g. controlled road works where the delay is extended for a few minutes I tend to shut the bike off with the key before the fan kicks in and/or I roast from the radiated heat. When it's time to go I key on and wait for all the 'stuff' - pump, electrics etc to settle before hitting the starter. The bike will start but suddenly I've got a 'lumpy' cam installed and the bike kind of 'gallops' at idle and has stalled a few times requiring a restart where I've got to twist the wrist slightly to keep the revs up until I can get moving. Not a big deal but hasn't happened before and has been repeatable so I thought I'd ask the brains trust if there is anything sinister I should be looking out for. I should note that the bike starts and runs fine from cold. If I've been off the bike for a bit somewhere and restart after say 10mins or so the 'galloping' is detectable but settles soon after and all is good. I'm getting close to a service so it may just be that she needs a TB sync?

This thread may not be exactly what you asked but it might point you in the right direction.

I noticed in the video that it wasn't being filled to the top every time but that's not how I've done it since installing it a couple of years ago. So, fill to the top every time and wind out to the point where the holes at the bottom aren't exposed to the air as the oil level drops as you wind - think bleeding your brakes and it's a doddle.

Yes that's the way it's done as a video description - even though the words on the screen at the beginning say -"First you must twist to the top.....". However, and as can be seen, the body is screwed down to the bottom of its travel first thus exposing the inner oil reservoir. Anyway, otherwise all good. Hope you like your new oiler 2 and 3. 🙂

Hmmm, might be the reason it's been advertised so cheap eh?

FWIW - that sounds just like my 2015 at idle. i.e. perfectly normal - at least in that recording of the sound.

Yea, I've had that problem occasionally too. My cludgy 'fix' is to use the snipping tool (in Windows in my case) on the original photo and that seems to straighten things out when the snip is posted. 🤷‍♂️ Not elegant, but works!

Does this help with what you are trying to achieve?

Yet another in a long line of happy customers after doing this it seems. I bought the new basket too but as yet haven't done the deed as I want to put a few more kms on her before putting her into surgery. Good to hear that the task was a quick and easy one and you now have a 'new' bike back as a direct result. 👍

Remind me, are you going with the replacement part (later version) or the modify what you already have technique? Interested to hear your impressions of the final result either way. 🙂

I actually did say that I have the street naked bars. Mentioned them by name and have a link to their site too. Have a look back in this post and you'll see them on my 'even faster' Grey 🙂 And yes, I should just about have the risers paid off by the time I'm ready to trade the bike - in a few years time! Here's those dimensions...

+1 from me. I've been running one of these since 2021 and find that it does the job admirably and for a reasonable/sensible price. Not complicated at all and that's one of the good things about it. A little tip for anyone thinking of getting one: - One small thing to remember is that when using one of these, the body of the oiler screws down along with the cap as one piece and serves to force the oil out through the line as required. To re-fill, you must hold the body still in its lowest (empty) position while you unscrew the cap. Then fill with oil to the top (counterintuitively while the body is in its lowest position), then unscrew the body a bit, fill some more, rinse and repeat until the body is fully extended to its stop at the top and now full of oil. Then the cap screws back on - don't forget to hold the body again while tightening the cap or it will begin to push out the oil when you don't intend it too. I mention this as I fell into the trap soon after installing until the penny dropped what was going on and why I had bugger all oil in the oiler even though I was filling it - or so I thought. Maybe there is something to be said in reading the manual after all. 🤔