dazzler24

Congratulations! I for one am eager to hear of your impressions (after some ride time) of how the new beast differs from the old one. Especially what things are significantly different in both good and bad (if any) ways. Enjoy the new ride. 👍

'Oh Zed', I have to wonder, would a taller screen simply do the same thing? I use a clip-on occasionally (no, not a strap-on) on a similar height screen when I want some 'me' time out of the breeze but again, have to wonder if just a taller screen would do the job anyway without the addition of the extra bit? I'm not a fan of the clip-on/turbulence fixer as far as looks is concerned (personal thing of course... a bit like beaks but we won't go there 😉), or do you think that a clip-on or equivalent allows the use of a shorter screen due to the aerodynamics provided by same?

+1 from me FWIW. If you install a hydraulic switch you won't be disappointed - just get a decent quality one. They're not that expensive and you won't ever have to revisit the eventually returning issue of the mechanical switch causing you grief. On a side note - while your CC is not being disabled when your mechanical switch is playing up, you are probably not displaying a stop light either while under braking! Something to consider. ....... Hydraulic switch. NIKE - just do it. 😉

Surely this very much sounds like the throttle, either at the handlebar end or at the throttle end, is physically stuck in the wide open position doesn't it? i.e. A mechanical problem. All the evidence (it would seem) points to it from the OP statements: - 1. "I pass a car and truck in third gear and pin the throttle to get around them." 2. ".... the throttle does not return. it is locked "fully on"" 3. "the Throttle will NOT rotate either open or closed, it is locked into one position." Anyway, like others here, I'm curious to hear what the root cause is in case there is some maintenance that may be required in the throttle area so as to avoid the same potential nightmare.

I should have clarified that the 'snow job' that I linked above requires the use of a pressure washer to apply the foam in the first place which it does at low pressure. I let that soak for a while on all the bugs etc. and then as you guys do, I attach the wide pressure lance/nozzle and carefully get in there to remove 90% of the crap. There is sometimes some hand washing follow up in some areas but probably because I'm also guilty of not washing that regularly either. 😏

Not wishing to hijack what @Warchild might reply, but this is what I use and it's probably a similar product anyway. And just as a heads up, you still need to do some hand washing if your ride's got some grime embedded. HTH.

Thanks guys for all of your sage advice (as usual). New shoes are always nice as a few of you have suggested and it may still come to that but I hate throwing out what otherwise are perfectly good boots - not to mention the fact that they are around AU$250 to replace like for like. @Heli ATP- I do like the look of those Gortex Klim Outlanders mind you .... @bwringer & @knyte - There is in fact a local cobbler and I will ask for a quote as they are the experts in this game after all and with all of the right boot tools and proper clamps etc so .... might be the way to go. That barge cement isn't cheap here! It was around AU$100 for a quart and I couldn't see a smaller quantity to buy but thanks for the suggestion. The shoo goo is available here and cheap enough to waste if it all goes pear-shaped - i.e. if the cobbler option is too extravagant in $$s. @piotrek- of all the posts - it's the beak you remember. 😜🤣 Ha! That tickled my ribs. Again, thanks all for the tips and tricks. I'll re-post when the outcome is known - FWIW.

After a ride today I noticed that my faithful and comfortable Alpinestars S-MX1's have started to part company with their soles! I started to gently pull at them and it's apparent that the original glue that was used has lost its integrity and they were coming away easily so I removed the soles completely. I'd like to try and resurrect them for a few more hundreds of Kms if possible as they're in reasonable nick otherwise. Suggestions for a good quality waterproof boot glue is being sought from those that have been there, done that please.

This would have been a good "The Photo Game Thread" challenge. .... Take a photo of your Tracer/FJ in front of a giant skeleton that's in a suburban front yard. The skeleton must be wearing a yellow duck floatie ring around its middle. Again - WTF!!

I'm glad it's not just me then! What the...?

I think you're referring to this olddawg post and yes, it appears he still has the original clutch - at least at the time of that post!

And this is true I guess and only time will tell. If it's a shorter, rather than longer term recurring issue then there will be more and more people affected and so might create the need for a suitable repair kit that is over and above the current offerings of drill and replace with bolts which is a bit of a hack technique IMHO. Alternatively, some enterprising engineering types with all the right shop gear might be able to offer a mail in service where the job could be done professionally. i.e. where the rivets are replaced like for like so that the basket is just like new again without any countersinking or grinding of bolt heads that seems to be the current home repair technique. As mentioned.... only time will tell.

Just one word from me for the OZ pricing of this new beast..... OUCH! I paid AU<$15K for my base model back in 2016 and sure, have added many bits over time to bring it up to GT specs but just OUCH to the price of this one. I know that it's a completely, well somewhat, different beast to my 'antique' but ..... did I say OUCH?

Yes, considering the number of reported cases out there I'm sure that there are many more that have the issue in varying degrees but either don't realise it or care enough about it to be worth their time and or money. And fair enough. To each their own.

After @Wintersdark's excellent appraisal of the issue and his glowing 'after' results I had no alternative ( OK, I did really 😜) but to bite the bullet and have now ordered all the 'bits' from Webike Japan. Do I have the 'GRONK' as described? After some careful riding analysis based on the earlier data, I believe that I do have the early symptoms. Honest analysis:- Is it a real problem for me? No - not really! The bike rides fine! Could I live with it? - Of course I could! Do I want to live with it? Now, that's the real question. For the OCD in me - the answer is if it can be better or improved then NO. What tipped it for me in the end was the currently favourable exchange rate with the Japanese Yen. The bits have shipped on a slow boat from Japan (much cheaper and I'm in no hurry) so I will either do the job at my next oil change or will at least check the slop in the rubber dampers then and if within specs I will at least have the parts for when it inevitably becomes a problem down the track.

Thank you! Excellent description and video. These things can kind of develop over time and you the user/rider doesn't notice the changes sneaking up over that time. A bit like your kids growing up - you don't necessarily notice the changes slowly happening but someone who hasn't seen them for a while sure does - if you know what I mean with the analogy. A couple of things you've mentioned in the 'before' scenario I'm sure I'm experiencing but I want to be very sure. I'm going to have to pay more attention now to the bike in the described conditions before shelling out for this fix. Thanks for the write up. 👍

G'day 2 and 3 - what are you up to when you say you're "on a crazy schedule"? To answer your question, I'm a very low mileage recreational rider. Only around 26K kms (16K miles). Got a ways to catch you 🙂

How many Kms did you have on her Winter? And it made a significant/noticeable difference? Apologies if you've mentioned it elsewhere.

I happen to have those very same ones (different colour). Have had them for a few years now and agree that they are great value for money and go some way to help with the OPs 'complaint' about lever pull distance.

Actually, (and just for clarity) you were correct in your original statement. The clutch disengages as you pull the lever in. i.e. no power delivery to the rear wheel. I know what you mean though and I too wished (long ago) that the clutch engagement was closer to the handlebars but as the Skipper says - that's not how this one works but you just get used to it.

Once again, some wonderful scenery. Got to get over that way some time. Looks like really inviting countryside.

There comes a time when decisions in life have to be made and I think we all know 'inside' when those times arrive. I know I've enjoyed your input and insights within these hallowed corridors and as you're hanging around I'm sure there will be more to come. All the best going forward for you and yours. 🙂

I know this doesn't really come under the umbrella of what we did to our bikes but since we're already down the rabbit hole...... Ok guys, thanks for the replies and to furthering my education. Just on the point of 'our' scones though, while they might sound similar to your biscuits, they are never (that I've ever heard of at least) eaten as breakfast fare but as a mid morning or as an afternoon snack usually with coffee or traditionally with tea. The quote in 2plus3's screen grab of piling sugar on to sweeten is never done (again that I've ever heard of ) but rather jam and optionally clotted cream is used to sweeten things up if desired or they are simply consumed as is or with a little butter. But now I have a hankering for your breakfast bread! There, now back to what we did with our bikes. 😄👍

For us Antipodeans, please elaborate on what 'biscuits and gravy' consists of. I've managed to work out the runny eggs. 😉

As all before have stated, if you have a choice (and you do) go for the five line set from one of the reputable distributors. You will lose nothing in performance and will retain your sanity in the process. Ask me how I know. If you are hell bent on going the seven line approach I know of at least two companies that do them - HEL and FREN TUBO. There may be more. P.S. go the five line approach.