dazzler24

2 plus 3, I bought the outrageously priced but very high quality Gilles Tooling 2DGT way back when I was actually earning an income and could (just) afford them.😲 You can see all of the dimensions and configurations in the link above. The Gilles risers allow some customisation in height by adding or subtracting 'washers' from the base of the stems. Here's some photos below that I took back in the day showing the Gilles against the OEMs for comparisons. It was a while ago but I think the risers went on as configured in the photos. I do recall that my cables were at or near their maximum comfortable lengths but I could still left to right with the bars with no effect on increasing revs or binding etc. IIRC the only real adjustment that I made was cracking the bolt on the master cylinder brake banjo and tilting it down a bit to relieve the little bit of tension that was there.

As 2 and 3 said - no. Having said that, I am using mine with bar risers to suit my preference and have them up and back towards me as far as the risers will go and the bars just touch my tank bag at full lock so all good there - if that helps.

Suggest you just do a search on "hand guards" and you'll come up with lots of options. e.g. have a look at this long thread.

Do you have a user manual? It should show you exactly where your signalling/parking and headlight fuses are. Mine (2015 model) are located under the right hand front covers and are shown in the attached pic. I believe (from an earlier post) that you have a 2019 GT and so location may be different. Have you tried plugging the OEM tail light back in (without reinstalling it) to prove if you've actually lost power? Double check your wiring to the blaster if that checks out. i.e. make sure you've plugged the connectors all the way home.

You're a brave man. Well done. Now get ready for the anti-vaxxers...... err..... anti-beakers to descend upon you with their righteous wrath and indignation! 😜🤣. And verily, they will say unto you.......

My responses are inside the quote 👆

Actually 2 plus 3, the shorter links are the lowering ones and the 1RC labelled bones are the stock links - see this earlier post. There's bugger-all difference in length between them but as noted the effect is magnified by the geometry. Here's a pic of them both, one on top of the other. And just to be clear, I used to run the lowering links but that was a few years back. I changed back to the stocks around about the time I got the Bagster seat as that was lower and I did some shaving off of the rubber mounts to go even lower. When I was originally 'lowered' with the bones (by about 15mm IIRC) I also lowered the front a similar amount and the whole effect was quite noticeable in the saddle. I didn't have any issues with the side stand as some have reported but I was also more discerning/conscious of the ground level where I would park. It was more upright for sure but not teeteringly so - for me at least. Using the centre stand did require a little more effort to deploy but just add more oomph and it'll pop right up. 🙂 And as you've noted, the Razor-R is adjustable so I could fiddle further with that to change my heights (and turn in) if I wanted to but I'm happy with the way it performs now so have left that length same as stock. The weather you ask? Yes, starting to warm up in my neck of the woods. Down south, some big highs and lows conspired to turn up the breeze for the Island race. Not entirely uncommon down there mind you. They don't call the wind down there the "Roaring Forties" for nothing. I don't recall exactly how I got those link nuts off but pretty sure it was not a struggle

Not exactly what you asked but FWIW, this is what I went with for front and back on my 2015 bike. As already stated, any/most aftermarket suspension makes for a huge improvement. Also, lowering dog bones is an option as well as per OZVFR suggestion. Last photo is of OEM lowering links next to standard links.

Sage advice as usual. 👍

Aha! That's interesting. Always something else to learn! Thanks knyte. 👍

If you have access to a multimeter you can check that the sensors are within specs: - 5.4 - 6.6 kohms at 0 C and 290 - 390 ohms at 80 C You can immerse the probe part in a container of water to test at those temperatures. If that tests OK then I'd be looking at your connections within the wiring. i.e. plug/s all the way home and or electrical contacts within those plugs are clean and free from any corrosion. Do you have an error number come up on your display when you turn the ignition on? 22 is the air temp error number. .... better still, here is the diagnostic procedure from the service manual - good luck and please report your finding. Pray that it's not #6 !!

Great job, really neat and thanks for all the info and feedback. Questions if I may: - 1. Did you use a drill press for all of the drilling and countersink work or did you do by hand? 2. IYHO do you think blue threadlocker would do the job instead of red or not worth the risk? 3. Specifically what 90 degree countersink did you use? Cheers and thanks again for the write up 👍

Skip you mention that "if the cooling system can’t build pressure, it will overheat and boil-over." which of course makes sense but that doesn't tie in with the coolant levels being fine as per the shops report back to the OP? i.e. -"...they just called me saying that fluid levels and everything are perfect ...". Unless it's all going into the reservoir and then being sucked back in when cooled? It was that statement about the levels being perfect that steered me away from the radiator cap being faulty even though I mentioned it earlier as a possibility. Happy to be corrected of course.

.... or that the thermostat was not open or only partially open. I have to wonder - how did they check or know that the pump was not pumping enough water at idle? (assuming the bike had been running long enough to be at a nominal operating temperature range) AFAIK A reasonable test would be to hold the water pump outlet pipe with a bare hand to feel if the temperature was rising or not as the bike was warming up. Again - the possibility of the thermostat not opening or opening completely? I'm interested in knowing the outcome. Hopefully it's not - "we changed both and it's now fixed - end of discussion."

Hmmm.... I would have thought trying a new thermostat and or radiator cap first to see if that resolved the problem would be the sensible approach before diving straight in for a new water pump?! Much cheaper and more often than not are the things that cause this kind of problem rather than a water pump. And assuming the bike is at operating temperature and the shop reports that the water pump is not pumping enough still could mean a thermostat that hasn't opened or not opened enough to allow the required flow rate - IMHO. Not saying it can't be the water pump of course but much cheaper and quicker to try the other two first - my 2 cents worth.

FWIW - Before my last bleed I was experiencing a less than satisfactory front brake feel similar to what has been described - OK but not awe inspiring. However, the last one I did was a similar technique to what has been described by the skipper and now have a front brake lever that is consistent and much firmer than before. Now it only needs minimal squeeze to get the brakes actuating compared to 'before' and is consistent with no discernable fade. I did spend a bit of time on it though to ensure every micro bubble of air was out. First did the usual suck and top up to get a coarse flush and then took my time to do the pump and bleed, wait, pump and bleed, wait etc. After several of those I used a cable tie to keep the squeeze on between the bleed cycle. And when I say wait it was for at least and hour or more every time. Even waited overnight after the initial process with the cable tie on and repeated the whole pump and bleed process the next day. Don't know if that was the trick but it was certainly a noticable difference at the lever. So much so that initially I thought I'd stuffed something up it was so firm. That was done in August 2022 and still all good to this day. HTH P.S. I didn't go out and purposely actuate the ABS on that bleed occasion either even though it has been activated since, both front and back, while on the road.

OK and wow. That's pretty good mileage then out of any battery!

Watching with interest. I learned something from this after researching why use the 90deg countersink and that is that metric flat heads are 90 deg in taper. For everyone else who didn't know - If you want the head of the screw to maintain contact on all the surface area of that taper than only use a 90 degree countersink. I'm sure that's common knowledge for the machinists/mechanics out there but new info for me. Also, did you need to remove the oil sprocket? I only ask as I'm sure I've seen where it can remain on if you remove the bearings from the clutch shaft first to allow it to drop down enough to clear the teeth?

Out of interest/curiosity, how old was the battery when you changed it?

I've never tried this on my current bike and it may be a silly question/statement to the wider brain's trust but is there any reason that you can't push/bump start these 'modern' bikes like we used to be able to do in the 'olden' days? I'm talking about a time when those bikes were simple with magnetos and carburetors and no ECUs etc. i.e. Ignition on, select 2nd or 3rd with clutch in and push your bike (downhill and with help preferably) until you reach a pace conducive to dropping the clutch as you dump your weight on the seat and pray that the bike fires up. It sounds like your battery was not completely dead as you mentioned that the bike fired up again after getting fuel so I'm assuming (never good) that the battery had something left in its tank, when it let you down, to power the electronics so I'm thinking (also never good) that this push start method may have been worth trying? My logic may be off??

I'm far from being an expert in oils (and many other things!) but I tend to believe what my oil manufacturer says on their product that I use. The Tracer (FJ09) user manual indicates that JASO MA is what's expected as the minimum for that motor. Quoting from the oil manufacturer's application guide (Penrite in this instance): - "PRODUCT BENEFITS MC-4ST 10W-40 is the superior performance premium engine oil with 100% PAO & Ester, synthetic base oils combined advanced additive technology including *FULL ZINC + (exceeding 1800+ ppm levels) for maximum engine, gearbox & clutch protection against wear, corrosion, oil oxidation, piston deposits and sludge under all conditions. It exceeds the requirements of API SN/CF and JASO MA. APPLICATION MC-4ST 10W-40 is designed for use in most modern four stroke road & sports bikes, dirt & enduro bikes, ATVs/Quad bikes and 4 stroke scooters that require a full synthetic engine oil. It is also equally suitable for use in transmissions with wet clutch systems where engine & gearbox oils are combined. It has optimum clutch slip prevention in these systems being compliant with JASO MA as is suitable for use where JASO MA1 and JASO MA2 is specified." HTHs

Yes, I'm sure I've read that some who wear glasses favoured modulars because it made it easy for them. Not all heads (and lids) are made the same I guess. 🤷‍♂️

I hear what you are saying and of course it's horses for courses. There's no denying that they are $$expensive$$.

So, I see that the Shoei Neotec 3 is now out in all its expensive glory. As well as a few tweeks over the earlier version, it will also integrate (for even more of the folding stuff) with the latest SENA SRL-3 mesh comms unit. I've had the previous iteration, Neotec 2, since 2020 and have been very happy with it. Personally, I'm not looking to 'upgrade' so soon but if you're thinking of a new quality modular style lid and don't want to have to re-mortgage the family home to get the latest, this might be a good time to keep your eyes peeled for discounts on the Neotec 2 as the retailers clear them from their stocks?!