dbeau

Did you paint your ktm handguards? Mine are like half gloss where yours look uniformily matte

Added a bunch of stuff over the months... Higdonion cage w/ highway pegs Grip puppies, Vista Cruise throttle lock, KTM handguards.. Givi E22 bags, Corbin seat... Also just received and installed my new ebay special windscreen but didn't take a picture yet. Ill post that later.

Any idea if your valves were within spec?

After some research it appears that the only difference between the 14610/14612 is the length. The 14610 is a little longer. - http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html#5

Just noticed there is some mis-match of numbers going on here. The OP filter list shows the Purolator 14612 is the compatible FJ-09 filter but you've linked the 14610 part. Not sure if this is an error or if both fit but thought it important to point this out so someone doesn't get the wrong one. I have in fact ordered and used 2 PBL 14612 filters now with success for the record.

Honda 94109-14000 Oil Drain Plug Gasket Pack of 50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JKPUUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CNMXzb53B0KVV All the crush washers you'll ever need for under $10. Just make sure you buy from "genuine parts planet" otherwise you won't get the real thing.

So I had the same problem but I finally found an adapter that fit well enough that it stays put. Plus I route the USB cable behind the tach so it kinda helps keep it in place. Id add a picture but can't seem to do that on mobile..

I've been reading about issues with the Boss filters. Specifically that there are sharp burrs on the inside of the anti-drain back holes that cut into the silicon valve. So maybe not the greatest filter after all. All that said, I too have always been an anti-Fram guy but I'm reading that the current Fram Ultra filters are highly regarded these days. Maybe times have changed. I have the Boss filter on my bike right now so I do intend to cut it open next oil change and check the silicone for cuts. Hoping for the best.

I'm about the buy a new filter. If the -50 model is offered should one insist on getting a -60? Or is the -50 still OK? Thanks for advice... Now this is a bit of a fuzzy memory but I recall looking into the diff between -50 and -60 and I think the -50 might be a little bit bigger of a filter but Yamaha had some bikes using -50 and others using -60 so they just decided to consolidate and have all the bikes use -60..... Or something like that.

Well I tour-a-fied my FJ today. Received my Higdonion Urban engine cage and put that on. I then bolted a set of highway pegs to that. Then added grip puppies to the handles and finally added a Vista Cruise throttle lock system. On the highway this puppy is gonna cruise like a crown vic! I'll throw some pictures up later. I think it turned out pretty well. The highway pegs fold up and they are all black so I don't think they look too silly.

You don't need to worry about the OBDII scanner as you can access diag and erase faults through the dash see below...

69 lb.ft.

What year is your bike? I'm assuming pre-2017 otherwise you wouldn't be able to see the error code in the first place. You should be able to clear codes through some process of pressing buttons on the guage that I am unfamiliar with but there is a write up somewhere on the forum here.

Success! I've updated original post to show how it's all done. Maybe a mod can move this to How-To's?

I agree that sounds better but thought OP might understand his own lingo better So if you're seeing signs that you are "rebounding too fast" then you want to increase rebound dampening by turning the screw clockwise. This will make you rebound less fast. And yeah, the Harden/soften crap in the manual is ridiculous.

I believe by turning the screw clockwise you are increasing rebound damping meaning there is more resistance for the suspension to return to a non-compressed state. More damping means suspension stays compressed longer. Less damping (counter-clockwise) = "Rebound too fast" ...if that's any less confusing haha

So after buying a few things and wiring them up I am now able to read and clear fault codes from my 2017 FJ-09. This should also work for XSR/FZ models. I purchased the following items for a total of approx $30 4-way plug to connect to bike: OBDII cable: CAN Compatible OBDII scanner: Now you don't necessarily need the plugs, you can always just affix the wires in place but the plugs make it easier and more secure. The following is the pinout info: Yamaha -> OBDII Scanner 1 (blue/white) -> 14 2 (blue/blue) -> 6 3 (black/white) -> 4 4 (red) -> 16 Here is the OBDII pinout: Apparently not all OBDII scanners will work. The first one I bought wouldn't link up so I returned it and got the one shown here. This also begs the question whether or not other advanced scanners may be able to access/change certain parameters like the pre-2017 could through the diag menu. Will look into this over time. Anyway, hope this helps! Previous Update: I stumbled upon a thread (linked below) where XSR owners have found a way to access and erase codes using a CAN OBDII reader and an adapter cable to plug into the diag cable under the seat. There is a factory cable adapter that can be purchased but it costs $75 or so and I'm not going to pay that. I'll attempt to find a cheaper option or maybe fabricate my own along with purchasing a cheap OBD scanner. I'll update once all that comes together. http://www.somefz09forum/forum/69-xsr900-general-discussion/11853-xsr900-no-more-local-diagnostics-mode-warning-prospective-owners-2.html Original Post: I wanted to let everyone with a 2017 model know about something that I've unfortunately discovered.... If you do anything to the bike that causes the check engine light to come on there is no way to clear it outside of taking it to the dealer to have the codes wiped. Situation #1: 600 miles on the brand new bike, During routine maintenance I let the rear wheel spin under power while on the center stand. This threw a front wheel speed sensor code (obviously). Check engine light appeared and was only rectified by the dealer clearing the codes. Situation #2: 3500 on the odometer. While syncing the throttle bodies I unplugged an unknown connector near the throttle body clamps to get more clearance. I forgot to plug this connector back in before starting the bike to check sync. I suspect this is why the check engine light came on and now, just like before, the light will not go off by itself. Some facts about 2017: -2017 model no longer allows the user to enter diag menu -pulling the battery has no effect -apparently anything you do that initiates a check engine light is permanent until dealer intervention I'm very dissapointed in this discovery as I do all of the maintenance on my bike personally. I find it very annoying that any slight mistep you take during maitenance will cause an irreversable (outside of dealer intervention) CEL. My dealer is a complete PITA to deal with and I do not plan on dealing with them to rectify this issue. I'll more than likely be breaking out the black electrical tape to hide this from sight and try to put it out of mind.

2017 Galaxy Blue

Shined her up!

Who makes these? Edit: nevermind, found them to be crazy iron brand