nhchris

Thanks @betoney.    I respect you knowledge and experience.

What confounds me is the counter intuitive nature of the adjustment.  If we are seeking improved high speed stability (+100 mph) why would we ever reduce the trail value?

I think most road race bikes are equipped with steering dampers. Maybe these nullify any reduction in straight-line stability caused by moving the fork tubes up in the clamps and resulting reduced trail.

I might try this as an experiment just for the fun of it.  (Can someone tell me the torque spec for the triple clamp pinch bolts?)

This topic makes my head hurt.  Please help!

By sliding the fork tube UPWARDS in the clamps the stock rake and trail measurements are both REDUCED.   Correct?

Reducing both these measurements has to make the bike more unstable, especially at speed (less trail).    Correct?

Take a look at this series of diagrams to see what I mean.

But... does the increased weight on the front wheel offset the instability caused by the reduction of rake and trail?

And...  has anyone actually (accurately!) measured the real-world increase in weight on the front wheel caused by a 10mm raise of the forks?

Or is this fix another internet  urban legend? 

And no fair saying "I did it and it just feels better."  Of course it feels better YOU did it!!

Thanks for the help getting my bean around this topic.

There  is a weird state in the drivetrain when the bike is moving yet all drivetrain forces are neutral. There is no positive load driving the bike forward and no negative load slowing the bike down.  This occurs for me cruising along a straight and level section of road.

In this state my 2016 is its noisiest as the drivetrain components rattle about and freewheel.

I assume an undamped front sprocket would only add to the cacophony since it is one more metal-on-metal interface joining the chorus.

So this issue is why I've switched from expensive helmets to economy helmets.

I am wearing a Bilt modular that costs $119.  It is DOT (FMV55 No218) and ECER22-05 certified, but not Snell.  I plan to replace it every 3 years.

While the fit n Finish is not quite as good as my old $650 Shoei, it is pretty darn good. 

What do you folks think?  Are you really buying more protection with an expensive Arai, Shoei or Scubeth lid?

For those interested, here is a link that describes how the various helmet certifications are performed and what they mean.  I admit I used to be a Snell snob, but I've evolved into a DOT dude!

3 hours ago, alquimista said:

There are several posts on this forum regarding vibrations. For me was a pain to find after several months of doing research etc., that the cause was very simple: chain tension. 1 to 1.5 inch slack must be measured you being ON the bike, specially if you are heavy weight . With the proper tension and slack, vibrations disappeared for me. Motor softness can be even improved if you use full synthetic oil, like Motul 

Ok. So what does 1.5 inches of slack with sag taken up by rider weight equate to with the bike on the center stand?  I assume a larger number, correct? 

How much larger?

Mt Equinox is a great ride in central VT.  Don't miss it if you have the time.  

Also, the ride up Mt Washington in NH is a classic.

cb

Yes, slack creates noise, but you gotta have it!

Rear wheel alignment right on?

I have never used undamped primary sprocket.  Maybe someone here can chime in regarding noise factor of damped vs. undamped.

I assume Yamaha uses damped as OEM for a reason: less shock on drivetrain for sure, and possibly noise?

When I pulled my rear wheel I was amazed at how many pieces of rubber fell out of the rear sprocket!

How much chain slack are you running?  (1-1.5 inches recommended)

Same noise in neutral with clutch out and baskets freewheeling?

Is front sprocket damped?

That should fix the decel pop.

Every British bike I've owned would tell me when an exhaust header was loose by popping on decel!

Tighten em back up and all would be good.

To put the bad flash idea to rest...

Is there another FJ you can swap ECUs with?  Just replace yours with another and ride and you'll quickly have an answer to that question.

cb

Attended a memorial ride for 7 riders killed in NH last week after a pickup truck crossed the centerline and plowed into their group.

About 3000 bikes participated in the ride and there  was a good mix of brands and styles of machines.

The weather was very hot in the 90s deg F and sun unrelenting. But the caravan of bikes took 45 minutes to pass by nevertheless.

Fitting tribute to the victims who through no fault of their own were in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Driver of the truck had a history of alcohol and drug abuse and should have had his license pulled months before.

You just never know who's behind the wheel of that approaching vehicle. Stay alert out there!!

It is pretty common for high performance sport and race bikes to be equipped with a steering damper.

So why not the FJ or GT?  What's the big deal here?

Egads, I had you pegged as a Nikken early adaptor Wordy!

But, now you can join the chorus on suspension, oil filters, throttle snap, ECU tweaking, tire pressures and the like.

Oh wait... you're already a member in good standing of that chorus!

Best of luck with the new girl mate!;)

Don't forget to convert your Ausi pounds to U.S. pounds when you report th weight @wordsmith!

I was shocked at how much the GT cost down there until I ran the currency conversion. At first a just figured the extra $5,000 was shipping:)

Here's what we need an enterprising forum member to do....

Someone with TWO accurate scales needs to put an 09 or GT to the test.

Get the bike front and rear tires up on the scales and note the weights indicated for each.  F + R = (469???)

As an added bonus, lift the forks 10mm and see  how much (if any) the front weight increases.

(I have only 1 scale and when I stand on it it reads way high.)

cb

I think if you look at overall cost of longterm ownership the Duck will be  A LOT more expensive than a GT.

Valves, belts, it never ends!! (assuming you can find someone to wrench in Italian:)

Did a 250 mile ride to scrub in my new set of Mich Road 5s.

Played with pressures a  bit and ended up running 38 / 36.  Hope that's a good compromise for ware and grip.

Tires felt good when I pushed them and a treat to have totally oval tires again.

cb

Thanks guys.

I ran 37/34 yesterday on a 230 mile scrub in ride and they felt fine.  I'll up pressure a bit and see how they go.

Very predictable at good lean and solid in high speed sweepers.

But, they seem a bit noisy compared to the OEMs I replaced. Maybe all those sipes?

cb

For those of you running Michelin Road 5s,  what pressures do you run front and rear?

(I am about 250 pounds kitted out.)

Thanks!

That's a good strategy @betoney.

I am spoiled by my old ST 1300's 7.2 gal tank and 45 mpg.  I could do 300 miles before refueling. I usually had to piss well before I need gas!

I tried  my Garmin on the bike but could not read it in normal daylight. I spent way too much time looking at it rather than the road ahead.  Was a real distraction.

To me the ideal rig would be iPhone Nav with blue tooth audio to a head set. No visual access required at all.

In the car the latest iPhone Nav is better than my Garmin.

cb

I ran out of gas the first week I had my FJ.  I ignored the flashing fuel gage  just a bit too long.

My new attitude is as soon as it begins to flash, find a gas station fast!! 

To maximize range I stand the bike up straight when refueling and fill to above the baffle in the filler neck.

On a good day I might see 200 miles before doing it all again.

On an extended tour in unfamiliar areas this is one touring bike that I can see carrying a liter bottle of extra fuel.

cb

Unfortunate there is no centerline painted on that street.  Looks like a residential loop with a narrower than normal width.

He is well over on your side for sure. Was he trying to avoid a kitten or something?

I have some sympathy for UPS guys who's bosses work them like Mexican mules until 8 PM in many cases. Bad job!

You got the plate number.

cb

On 8/24/2018 at 8:58 AM, comsym said:

I've a 2015 that I picked up (used) a few months ago and just did my first oil change on. It seemed the ideal time to do the mod to the pan. I used a magnetic, hex head plug with a Dorman washer, sold for the R1, but it fit fine. Torqued to 20 lbft with a little thread sealant.
 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F311557082474

That sealing washer looks a bit trick. Where do you get another one at next oil replacement? Ebay?

cb

I think what the Niken needs is an AMA racing class of its own.

Once folks see that rig all leaned over and sliding the myth of the "bike for the disabled" will be blown.

However, if this board is a microcosm of the overall motorcycling public, Yamaha gets a major FAIL in setting expectations and providing perspective for the Niken. Why should we have to figure it out?

Like many of Honda's motorcycle initiatives over the years, it leaves one shaking their head in confusion.

Good recent Niken article by Kevin Cameron here.

Watch a Niken knee-dragger shred in the alps (jump to the 3 minute point unless you speak Italian)

cb