Yamajank

28 minutes ago, NormR said:

I'd be curious how that comparison turns out in a side by side run??

Like a race?  The other two aren't GT, so I guess I'll have to "promise" not to use the quick shifter.  haha

50 minutes ago, SKYFLIX said:

 If you aren't already considering an aftermarket exhaust, then that will be in your future as well. The cat is going to get clogged over time. Not today, or tomorrow or possibly next year, but *eventually*.

I did not know this.  I really don't want to do an exhaust.  What happens if the cat gets clogged?

Early review of Ivan's flash

The snatchy throttle is 99% better.  There is less engine braking.  It is smoother (almost too much) in every gear and at every RPM.  The speedometer is the same (shows 1.5-2mph fast).  I swear there is less whine in gear 5&6.  There is more power, though I can't say I'm tapping into it on the street...much.  

Negatives:  I think my fuel economy dipped 20%.  I've only gone not quite two tanks, and the first one I thought maybe I didn't reset the ODO, but now coming to the end of this second tank I think my MPG is going to go from at least 50 to more like 40.  I asked Ivan about it, and he immediately claimed that he makes no claims about MPG, and that it shouldn't really have been effected.  He blamed the colder temps.  55-65 degrees should not be a factor IMO.  And here is straight from his website on MPG

Set main timing tables for maximium power and driveability across the entire rpm range and all throttle positions.
This also helps provide better fuel economy, and less vibration when cruising and moderate acceleration.

Anyway, I think I read someone else have with this issue of a smell.  It's kind of like gas, but also just like maybe when chain lube is burning on the engine, but it is a distinct smell that I only experience when I pull into the garage and turn off the bike.  I did not experience this before the flash.  It crossed my mind that maybe I switched the tubes on the underside of the tank when I reinstalled everything, but something tells me the bike would not run or run correctly if I did that.

So I'll keep an eye on the MPG, and a nose on the smell, but overall because my main goal was to get rid of the jerk of power with the slight throttle, I'd have to say it was worth it...probably.  And maybe on a trip with more cruising miles the mpg will improve, idk.  

Just confirmed, 42.5 mpg.  That makes an effective range of only 191 miles if you risk going to 4.5 gallons used.  

Luckily I have two friends with unmodified triples to compare and see if I really think it's worth it.

On 2/13/2020 at 8:56 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

Again, being a15 I bought new in 16, and having heard about the CCT issue (even though there is a TSB fix) and tight valves, I shopped around and bought the 4 year YES for like under $350 from dealer in MO.  I may check my valves myself again before it's up this June.  I was putting on the miles until 18 when I changed jobs, so I have only 35k miles now but with my luck something untoward will happen as soon as it expires.

So $443 four years later is probably as good of a deal as we're going to find.  I kind of like the "trip" insurance aspect of it.  But I realize it's a gamble.  The one that has me thinking about it is another post that listed prices for some of the electronics.  Those are the things that I don't see a "bush fix" for.  Go ahead...I just set someone up for a good joke.

23 hours ago, Warchild said:

Obviously tires make a huge difference - my factory D222's were replaced within the first two weeks for a set of proper Dunlop RoadSmarts IVs.

But the factory suspension is another matter altogether. If one is a scrawny little 140-lb solo rider, you can make the factory suspension work for you once sag is properly set, etc.

But if you are a 225-lb linebacker, have a 125-lb pillion and 40lbs of gear between side cases and top box, the factory suspension ain't cutting the mustard whatsoever. Even with pre-load set to the max, that factory rear shock, in particular, is not up to task, and neither are the factory fork springs. Not if you are going to tackle the mountain passes and hairpin turns with gusto.

Fortunately, this can be readily corrected with enough determination and $$$.

So what do the (scrawny) 150 lb riders out there have the preload set to achieve proper sag?  Mine is zero on the rear, and between all in and 4 lines out on the forks...doesn’t seem to make much difference on the front so I opt for a little more softness there.  The forks seem to be quite soft.  This is without bags.  With bags I’m usually starting with 6 clicks rear preload.  Just curious if anyone has a different take.

Had the switch recall done Monday.  I had made an appointment months ago, and they ordered the part and had one for me.  I think it took 15 minutes.  They tried to sell me an extended warranty that was like $1600 for four years.  No thanks.

I just rode a friends new xsr 700 and it was like a toy.  A fun little toy, but not something I could see doing much more than the 10 mile commute.  If it doesn’t give you at least a smile when you ride the tracer then maybe it isn’t the best one for you.  Good luck.

I ordered S22s. If they’re good enough for @betoneyand @fjray, they’re good enough for me.  Rear is on back order and even then I might just wear the OEM to the bars, but I’ll update when I have them on.

5 minutes ago, draco_1967 said:

I finished wrapping today. Man, that is tough stuff. The vinyl is very forgiving. It takes a lot of planning and technique to get it looking even halfway decent. My job looks great from 10' away...

 

Then I installed the Super Tenere pegs I bought off fleabay back in December. Took some filing, but they feel great.

 

 

Looks good. Now just get rid of the goo...just my opinion. I gave up wrapping and more or less made decals.  

On 4/26/2021 at 7:19 PM, PhotoAl said:

I wondered about the snatchy throttle until a few weeks ago.  Have ridden a lot in B but then switched to A after trying STD.  Was messing around a bit on an uphill twisty section where the pavement was not so good.  In A mode when I made large movement like from throttle to full closed to back on a fair amount it was very jerky!  Almost caught me out but being the phenomenal rider I am, I was able to control it :-)   Seriously it spooked me a bit.  I must say B mode is much better and even in A mode it is not bad as long as you learn how to not make large throttle changes to and from a fully closed throttle.  From what I can tell the Tracer GT has an improved throttle response from the FJ09.

A funny thing about that.  Some of you might have followed that I went to YCRS (riding school) in March.  I was lucky enough to get their only Tracer.  I paid no attention to any set up other than after the first time out, I asked that the brake levers be moved a little bit.  Then about the end of the first day, I looked down and it was in B mode.  Smart guys.  They wanted to make sure it was as smooth as possible.  I do ride in mostly A mode at home, but I also have an Ivan flash now which really improves the on throttle lurch.  You can still get it slightly if you're not smooth, but it's the best upgrade of the flash that I can attest to at this time.

I know, I know.  You say you can’t get a bad tire, but if I was choosing between Bridgestone S22, Bridgestone T32, and Roadsmart 3...which ones would you steer me toward.  Or does anyone say it’s worth the money to pop for Michelin or Pirelli?  I’m in the straightest most boring part of the globe, but I intend to take at least three trips a year to twisties and hopefully 2 track days.  And...go...please?

Quote

I’m still hoping to do a more thorough review of ivan‘s when I get more seat time.  

I find the chain tension can actually make a difference. I think mine likes to be right at 45.  And not to hijack but the ecu flash also makes a difference. 

3 days of good weather in a row coming.  Just need a little time now!  

6 hours ago, Salish900 said:

I have to say that of all the bikes I've had, I just can't imagine how my 900 could be any smoother. The darn thing is so smooth in 1st gear off the line and at all speeds 0-30 that my wrist feels magical. It's one of the most remarkable things about the OEM ECU and engine that it is so smooth at all speeds, and spins right up to the rev limiter like butter. It pulls like a bull, and is stead like eddy. My Concours, FJR, Capo 1200 and Versys all had much worse throttle response and smoothness. This darn 900 amazes me. I've heard the earlier FJ09's had a snatchy throttle and maybe an ECU flash would really help that, but for anyone thinking of a newer 900 I would suggest they ride it a good long while before thinking they need a flash. That's my $.02. 

I would mostly agree with you accept for the fuel cut issue.  I won't try to explain it.  It's on Ivan's website.

16 minutes ago, Mattf said:

How does the tune affect gas mileage? My speedo is only of by 1 mph at 65. Most accurate of any bike I've owned.

Too soon to tell on mpg...the claim fro Ivan’s site is that it will be better.  The flash does not correct the speedo...off by 1.5-2. 

So I got the ECU back from Ivan.  I'm waiting to go for a few more rides to give my final verdict.  With the weather and not having time, it's been a struggle to get out there.  I'll say this so far.  It does feel smoother on throttle.  It does feel like there is less vibration when cruising.  Engine braking at least after 2nd gear does seem more tame.  I'll leave it at that for now. 

I never found a particularly appropriate place to put them (on the bags).  Tried for a while in the “boot” areas, but eventually took them off.

4 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

My GT seemed to really like dropping the front 7mm - I'm pretty sure I don't ride as hard as you but it helped along with setting the suspension.

I know I don’t ride as fast as he does, but I try to keep up as best I can.  I think he needs to get to the track with me this summer...no matter what bike he ends up with!  

I don't know if they were copping out but probably not because like someone mentioned, it's a revenue opportunity, however my dealer said they hooked up their little data cable and it didn't need a sync.  I'd rather do it myself anyway when the time comes, but I was willing to let them while it was so new.  I still don't really know if they're able to tell sync or not sync with their little plug in.

I wired mine with the signals so I could get rid of the pumpkins. Also I drilled holes in the guard for a more built in look. Filled the holes with clear jb weld to make it look like little lenses.  They are white when in running mode and amber in signal mode. 

Is that the consensus then concerning brand/type of coolant for after 2017 models even?  The Pentosin A3 still the go to?  My research suggested that a Zerex product like Original Green or the Asian Red might also work.  I have the 2019 GT and the fluid is green (I know it's just a color).  I'll visit my local shop tomorrow and see what they say.  I'm still waiting on the ECU to arrive from Ivan and I figure I have access to the cooling system.

Does it work if you say, “have you heard of this guy Ivan?”  

43 minutes ago, CRFan250 said:

Thanks for that Info.!  Yeah I plan on getting Ivan’s flash after I get the bike broken in, etc.  Just deciding on the exhaust.  Ivan’s flash has you disconnect the O2 sensor correct?

No.  Mine is on the way back from Ivan.  Only instructions were not to alter the air box.  At least that’s what I understand.

How NW are you?  I'm in Granger. Welcome!