KeithQ

Current and previous

OMG, I have wondered for years where the hell that phrase came from. Thanks for making something up, er, explaining it!

Hey Joe, didn't see a part number but my VIN showed the recall detail.

I got two! Did I win a prize?! One was for my (sold) previous FJR1300 and one for my 2020 Tracer. Actually had my original dealer from 6 years ago call me to tell me about it before the letter(s) arrived.

Or even an Aerostitch Darien light. They make excellent stuff that lasts for years. I have a Darien that is about 20 years old. I did send it up and had a couple of repairs and some of the reflective strips replaced last year.

I used the Garmin hardwire instead of the 12v outlet because of the same reasons. It is much better to use a switched hot spot. WHy not add a fuse box under the seat? Works great. I have used Blue Sea box on my FJR (lots more room there) and one from Eastern Beaver (smaller) on the Tracer. That way, you have one place to look for bad fuses and one place to connect anything else you want to wire up later. Currently, I have the Zumo, my radar detector (safety reasons only!), Denali lights and my heated jacket all connected. I do use the 12v for my XM radio receiver in my tank bag however. And yes it does occasionally wiggle loose. But I would rather lose the music than my GPS frankly.

I ended up, after some interesting cutting work on the original bolt, replacing with the stock side stand. Yes, it is a little taller but not so much that it is going to fall over. And certainly more stable than the bending one from Soupys. The only one I can think of is Sandy Woods who lives in Mena but she was married to Charlie, STOC#002 who died many years ago. I didn't realize they had police in Louisiana however...

Dremel to the rescue!

As I have seen on other threads, it does seem odd Yamaha used cotter pins on the right side but not on the left side of the driver foot pegs. Got the right one replaced easily enough and went to install my new (FJR style) left side peg and cannot seem to get it off. When I read 'drill out' the pin, does that just literally mean drilling upwards into the bottom end of the pin? I can't seem to get too far. Any thoughts, or am I just too cautious with the drill? Thanks

Well, it would be nice to have some of the extras, but I think my 2020 at about $2500 less was worth it. 2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT Sport Touring Motorcycle - Model Home 2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT Sport Touring Motorcycle

Soupy's said to return the side stand, but now my dilemma is getting it off! 14mm on the outside bolt with a 1/2 socket and a pair of vise grips on the inside bolt and it is loose and turns (the ratchet) but is not coming off. Got the spring off pretty easily. Any ideas? Maybe I should hold the outside bolt and try getting a wrench on the inside one? Right now it is just wobbly and turning.

Someone else suggested having a welder shorten the stock side stand. Soupy's is still researching the issue after pix were sent. They were definitely surprised and asked if I ever stood on the left peg to get on the bike, which I have been known to do. But I also did it with the far heavier FJR that also had the same side stand and never a similar problem. We shall see. Just being extremely careful when getting off now until I can hoist it up onto the center stand.

No kidding. I have made contact with Soupys and they asked me to send pics of the back of the stand. The ne below seems to be damaged where it fits into the upper portion.

On my previous, heavier FJR, I had the same side stand after installing a lowering kit for 5 years without any incident. Hopefully they will get back to me today.

Ordered the lowering kit from Soupy's with the side stand and have used it for the few weeks I've been on the new ride. Yesterday, I thought for some reason the bike seemed to tilt more than usual. I looked down and sort or freaked out a bit. Notice the stand looked to be curved now, as if it had bent. I managed to get off, holding it up with one hand, removed the saddle bags and manhandled it up onto the center stand. Sent an email to Soupy's but so far no reply. Take a look at the pix. One is the pic from their web site and the adjustable part looks quite straight. Not sure if you can tell, but the one on my bike should come straight out of the upper portion but looks quite curved outward to me.

I was only using the connector under the seat as the trigger for switched power. My fuse block is connected to the battery! Thanks

And I appreciate all the advice. Always helpful to visit here!

Well, I may have been successful. Just need to do some aiming of the Denali's after dark. Added to the PC-8 from Eastern Beaver: Denali DR1, mounted on the front forks Garmin Zumo Beltronics radar detector (purely for safety reasons!) Heated vest controller (Warm & Safe) So far, everything seems to work. Hope this wasn't a fatal flaw, but I tied both the trigger wires (Denali and fuse block) into the same aux plug referenced above. You can see from the pix, it is crowded under the seat. But all seems to fit...

Interesting. I found that plug with a cap, near the battery but was unsure what is was for. I will try using that for the PC-8.

Have a few questions about adding the Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse box, as well as some new Denali driving lights. 1) Both say to hook into a 'hot wire' as a trigger and wondering if anyone has any advice on where or which wires. I can see the wires going into the tail light but not sure if I should strip some of that away to get to it or try somewhere else. Eastern Beaver gives you a splice but Denali just has a terminated wire. 2) Oh yeah, if I am going to power the Denalis from the fuse box, should I remove the in-line fuse that came with the lights? 3) And lastly, anyone know which fuses go into which colored fuse holder on the PC-8? There is a white one and a black one, presumably to hold a 20 and a 30a fuse. But nothing on their site (that I can find) advises if which goes where or if that is even important. Hope that all made sense! Thanks in advance for the expert advice I know is available on the forum. Cheers, Keith

I will see if I can locate them, thanks!

I was going to put the block under the bracket as you did. The tool kit, and I use the term quite loosely, is actually embedded under the passenger seat. The issue is how the inline fuses and the relay are close enough to the battery connectors, there just isn't much you can do but keep them close. I will likely end up clipping some of the tie wraps holding the Yamaha relays in place and see if I can scootch them over some. Next trick will be to locate at least two places to tie in for switched power. Need one for the fuse box and one for the fog lights. Trying to get the tail light wires loose, even as we speak! Thanks for the pix. That is always appreciated.

Wow, you didn't even do the 600 mile break-in period?!?! Brave guy

I am going to try the Denali mount brackets that pivot. Hopefully they will be able to hold up the DR1 set. Will upload some pics once complete. Right now, still struggling to jam the wiring harness from Eastern Beaver (PC-8) fuse box under the seat!