Eventhorizon

So here a little story about how old habbits needs to be adjusted for a bike with electronic aids, esp modern ones. All my life riding motorcycles (various kinds for about 30 years) Id say that I was really good about keeping out of trouble for the most part and only a few of times did I get crossed up a little bit and a couple of times almost ate asphalt, one time I did... I always practiced in the parking lots and also while on the streets (no one behind me let me emergency brake right now or pretend that manhole cover is oil and I need to avoid it). I knew when the front ends would start to get uneasy or the tire would sing before losing grip, along with the rear end. I also practiced to a point (and it has saved me) emergency braking in corners, again listening and taking in feedback from the bike working the front and rear to keep the bike going in the corner. This alone saved me once or twice. The Tracer 9 GT was my first bike with ABS and all the electronic stuff. I dont consider them a hindrance and I do not consider them replacement for road skills. I did consider ABS welcomed but not a requirement for a motorcycle. I got the bike and set everything on "2" After I got the bike the same rules come into play like before. Play around in the parking lot and street to feel the limits of the bike with the addition of how the ABS reacts. I still want to know how far I can pull the front brake lever before triggering the ABS, along with the rear, wet or dry pavement. A month later of owning the new bike flying home one day from work on the highway sudden brake lights ahead and I put on the brakes and start braking hard and down shifting, well traffic suddenly brakes harder to a stop and for a split moment I froze worried id lock up a wheel with the bumper of the car ahead of me closing in quick (or I was closing in on that bumper). I was afraid of locking up a wheel and looking for an exit. I snapped out of it and pulled the front even harder and stopped within a reasonable distance and did not trigger the ABS. Even the fact that ABS did not trigger, showed that I was not using the full potential of braking of the bike. And that is what this story is about.. not depending on but discovering the full potential of the bike while still having some what of a safety net there when you go from 98% braking (up right or in a corner) and go to 104% and electronics bring you back over the 100% edge. While there are most likely very few people on this planet that can say ABS, traction control, anti wheelie are a hindrance, for the rest of us they allow us to get on the brakes, squeeze to that 98% potential and not be afraid of the consequences to cross that 100% mark because electronics will help to keep us in check. But I still have ~30 years of habits I need to adjust. I know how to brake in a corner but I'll still poop a little when the electronics kick in. I like to discover capabilities by testing and learning them, not what a video says.

Yea I feel the same way that its just something you don't do, it sets off alarms in my brain. I have braked and pretty hard at times in corners with out cornering ABS, I know it can be done, I just dont want to be the first to take it right to the limit.

Just one hex drive screw that threads directly in line with the valve. I checked them before installing and I dont think that they are going anywhere. Now modifying an existing valve stem to take these I would not do with out taking serious consideration on how it would be done. As you already know a failure could be catastrophic. The work around in that situation is to use an external one, but as noted from my comments above for me its more of a hassle than I think its worth. There is also some concerns about the extra weight (no matter how little) on the valve stem while riding.

Here is the link to the setup that I used https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001245085272.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802Izjqcg I kind of wished I did a build review with more pictures but I'm not sure if you can use a 85 deg valve stem, but the valve stem with the TPMS sensor when installed does sit about as high as a standard valve on the rim (412 I think). If the valve stem can take a sensor that screws straight into the valve it should work I did add a little bit of silicon grease to the rubber cone that sits inside the rim and while they did not offer torque specifications I tighten it down till i could barely rotate the stem twisting from the sensor. The sensor its self is held straight on with a small Allen screw. I included a picture from the website showing the back of the receiver where you can see the brass nut molded into the plastic. I ended up removing this and then sanding what was left of the plastic down and using the 3M dual lock tape on it. If you do still want wheel pictures let me know and I'll get some tomorrow, and answer anymore questions that you may have. Actually here are the tire sensors page with further visual details Only for CAREUD Built in sensor TPMS M3 motorcycle Wireless Internal Sensor TH can not replace battery 0 8 Bar|Tire Pressure Alarm| - AliExpress

Installed the Careud TPMS (Model M3Z-TH) into the 2021 Gt 9 via Aliexpress After taking off each tire and installing the internal sensor (the sensors are already registered to the receiver and are marked (F) front and (R) rear and putting the tires back on I had the issue of mounting the actual receiver. There were two problems with this 1) The location on where to put the mount kit that came with it More importantly: 2) The plastic on the back of the receiver was brittle and any amount of torque to mount this to the supplied mount cracked it and pulled the mounting nut out of the back of the receiver. At this point I knew that I was not going to mount this in the traditional sense because the plastic was giving away and eventually it will fail (most likely flying down the highway) So I broke out the belt sander and sanded down the back side of the receiver till it was flat, and used 3M Dual Lock Velcro and mounted the receiver on the "nose" of the dashboard Perfect place for it. Over all this TPMS seems to be solid and accurate. There are no tenths of a PSI or Bar so if you set your tires to 33.5 it will show 33 till it rolls over to 34 and then display 34. It updates from time to time the changes in the pressure as your riding (I dont know the refresh rate but its a few times a minute). The receiver is rechargeable and can run on switched power if you wish. If you run it on the internal battery it will shut off after your done riding and a little bit of movement of the bike wakes it up again. Some pro points of the system: The receiver seems to have a LCD display that at first seems very basic but it works very well for what it needs to do in direct sun light or dark. If there is a major change in tire pressure (deflation of course) the system alerts you right away and flashes lights and sounds an alarm There are various parameters you can set for the front and rear tire in regards to high and low pressure and temperature limits. Some Cons of the system: The receiver mount on its back is very fragile and any amount of torque to mount it to its supplied bracket basically started to fracture the mount to the point that I would not trust it It took almost a month for this to ship from China to my house. So far I'm liking the system and it does just "fit" on the nose and just kind of blend right in. While using the internal sensors were kind of a pain in the butt to get in, its better than the external screw on ones because I'm always checking my pressure anyway so to take off the locking nut to check air is going to be a hassle for me in the long run.

Short answer .. Yes. Especially if its a stiff head wind. Same with a car too, but not as much as a motorcycle. My previous bike (VStrom 650) was notorious for eating fuel in heavy head winds. I would always do what you did measure mileage and refuel at a certain point. My certain point got a bit more conservative if it was windy or stormy as I was riding.

Yep my bike has both recalls to deal with. The whole "Don't ride the bike unless its straight to a dealer" is a hard no for me. Your taking my daily therapy away from me. I'm going to call my local dealer and have them order the needed part and go in when they have it. If they can't get it for a while, well I'm still gonna ride. My bike isn't going to sit. Any reports on if the reflashing makes a difference before and after? I think that the bike runs fine and I have a slight unreasonable fear that the re flashing will make it run worse. The only thing that I hope the reflash does fix is a hard warm start up, this is the only issue that I have had with the bike. Say for example I'm riding around and need to stop for fuel. After filling up the bike starts but stumbles and throttle is mushy for about 10 seconds and it clears out. A restart after a couple of hours or more does not produce the same results.

I'm an Atheist, but after the bike is warmed up and before I hop on I close my eyes and give a quick prayer asking to keep me safe. I guess it cant hurt.

Installed the FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster LOW Note Horn to replace the standard horn on my 2021 GT. At times it seems that I could yell louder than the factory horn. It was for the most part "Plug and Play" with some bending of the bracket that came with it, cut off the excess, smooth it out and tie it all up with a little bit of blue thread lock. I was able to just plug it direct into the connectors that the factory horn uses. I was able to get it just right where the old horn sat with out clearance issues. I went from a motorcycle "Meeeepppp" to a big car HHHOOOONNNNKKKKKK Next project is Careuid Motorcycle TPMS with internal sensors in the next couple of weeks.

Oh yea this is one of those topics that can go on and on. Here is my experience. I have had a Yuasa from a factory last 8 years no problem and kept on a Battery Tender Jr over the winter and every so often during the summer. I only swapped it out because I figured 8 years was good enough and Just wanted to get another one. I bought a bike that had a Walmart AGM battery put into it before I took ownership of the bike and it lasted a year under similar circumstances as the previously noted Yuasa. I knew it was dying when starting the bike started to sound like a struggle. That bike then got a Motobatt battery. I then had a bike that had a MotoBatt battery that was kept on a tender most of the time and that lasted 7 years before I sold the bike. It was still going strong. Pretty much cheap batteries are cheap for a reason as well as expensive ones are for their reasons, well expensive. The gotcha is that some of the expensive ones are expensive because of the name but not because of top quality (good quality but not best). If I had to pick dont go cheap but you should go towards more expensive but not the top of the line if your looking for expected reliability of the battery. Checking the battery ratings and reviews can help flesh out the duds from the good ones. So Yuasa batteries are made in Japan and are on the higher end, but maybe hard to find (other than on line) and I think have a one year warranty Motobatt (Place made unknown) are a few dollars cheaper and state that they have a little more capacity because they have a way to use "wasted" space in the battery for a little more plates. You can buy direct off their site and their shipping is pretty quick. Just make sure that you do not buy a Yuasa from Amazon (they are not an authorized reseller and will not cover the battery for warranty). If you get a Yuasa make sure you get it from a reputable dealer. I depend on my bike as a daily during the 3 seasons that don't have snow and for the sake of knowing my bike will start and that I wont damage my charging system dont go with a cheap battery.

Sorry about that, I took a test ride back in July at a Demo event and even though the ride was only 15 minutes long I knew I wanted the bike. In august I got a 2021 fresh out of the shipping crate, and rode 110 miles (one way) to a dealer that got one in. Coming from a 09 650 V-Strom, I was trying to change the V-Strom into the 9GT over the years with seat being redone, suspension upgrades, and fixing the buffeting. Found that I was turning my "SUV" V-Strom into a sports tourer, but you can only sport out a SUV so much. Started looking at the FJ-09 back in 2015 and started saving my money planning on buying the bike. You almost got me with the 2019 model but held out for some reason. The in line 3 has me hooked, cant live with out a quick shifter now (good for traffic), no buffeting, sportbike baked in, I want to hate the T32 tires but I really cant, light clutch pull, you guys have really been hiding a decent all around platform from years of refinement and not letting others know. Almost 4k miles later its stored for winter for now, till March or so when everything thaws out, and the roads are washed clean.

Former VStrom rider here. I can confirm that I (along with others) get long life out of the chain with out cleaning it. I got 28K miles out of my chain and sprockets before I sold the bike. The chain was good for about another 3 - 5 K miles (it was showing signs of needing to be replaced soon) This chain was a X ring RK chain and sprocket set. I also used DuPont chain wax. Never cleaned the chain, lubed up every 2 refills on the tank regardless of rain or shine. I flipped the front sprocket at 15 K miles to allow it to wear evenly. Thats it. 90% street riding. For the Tracer that I just got (2021 GT), I'm changing things up a bit, I'm going to use Yamaha synthetic chain lube, and after spraying down the chain for a semi decent soaking, I wipe off the excess with a rag and let it dry. What ever dirt comes off comes off. Again every two tanks it gets lubed. The previous bike I didn't even wipe off the excess. Cleaning the chain does nothing for the life of the chain (Street riding), but makes it look nice. Aggressively scrubbing the chain and tearing at the rubber O rings is what shortens chain life. Its a fact. The only real wear that your taking care of is between the roller and the pin. Even then its very little movement. I digress a little bit, cleaning the chain does allow for inspections of the chain for issues. If your lubing every other day and cleaning once a week and your not getting at least 15 to 20 k out of a decent quality chain, something is wrong. Not trying to start another chain debate, but I think that I read somewhere someone reported doing a did a not lubed chain run and got 10K out of it.