pattonme

I'm guessing CAD cycles is now replaced by AK? You can tell how often I get up to that area...

I would start with fork springs and damping fixes. A mediocre shock can be ridden around as previously opined by @smifff et. al. However jarring spinal inputs is generally the fault of the shock so fork fixes won't help in that department. If you *really* want to go all-in on least-cost DIY, I can provide say $20 worth of shims and you can re-configure the stack - the OE pistons aren't really the problem. The $330 (netted) includes the springs.

$500 all-in is going to be a little difficult. Stoltec has both remanufactured and upgraded cartridge option (swap out right leg guts) as well as (or did) just the "valve assemblies" option which is analogous to one of the GP suspension kits referenced. the DIY cartridge swap option from me nets out to around $330 (bring your own tools, oil) and exchanges both cartridges. I could provide a "valve assemblies and misc parts" shimmed for your use for something around 150(TBD) but you'll have the joy of doing all the work which isn't entirely trivial. I have half-dozen of ZX6 (high+low comp, rebound) shocks headed to Norwest for rework. Those will price-out to about 400 shipped with new EIBACH springs and internals rebuilt/revalved.

that's a bit courageous.

depends WHICH year FZ09 you used, but the problem with the 2015+ XSR/FJ is that Yam added 5-6mm more preload to the shock but did nothing useful with it otherwise. The damping pretty much blows all around no matter which year, but the 2014 FZ09 was atrocious. at 190lbs you're still riding around on the 95N/mm spring when you really should have a 100 but it's not like you're way off.

I gave the Andreani option (suitably modified) to give you a fully commercial option to maximize the price point. Your local currency situation will change the price and I don't know how customs/duty works. I can send you the upgrade parts for either the Andreani or my in-house and you or your mechanic will have to do the work.

@sheridan, do you like to tweak/experiment or once set leave things be? Do you change your load-out a lot? are you taking the bike to the track? For 1200: * Andreani + Ktech Razor Lite or Ntrion NTR1 * my in-house + Nitron NTR2 or K-Tech Razor

gotta think outside the box. put your bike under the 3d printer gantry and just print yourself a fully embededded, perfect fit solution. *ducks*

Nitron NTR2. So, you bought the Ohlins NIX-30 for the forks?

BBB's post was plausible-sounding gibberish driven from a jargon word cloud. Much like many a "peer reviewed" academic paper which lines up words resembling an English sentence but is utter nonesense if you try to parse it. That or he cut/pasted from the Brexit negotiation documents written by some back-bencher. At least I hope he was typing in jest... (if not, my apologies)

Given your's state of tune I'm surprised you don't run around rotating the dead cylinder every 10 seconds or so unless you're in <3rd gear, over 4K rpm and past 1/2 throttle. Do you even get 80 miles to a tank?

it's a flared nut, the washer is gratuitous.

because they didn't recess the one side? I'm guessing the other side was flat too with no protrusion?

sure, just need to go get the measurements.

I have a lathe. I have the aluminum. I can run these off no problem. Do your own painting. So I need to put an order into McMaster/Grainger for suitable bolts too? I'm not a fan of Hex socket for these bolts. Do people have a preference for socket vs head?

I second Vesrah. If you want to downgrade to the 'JL' (note no leading 'R') that's a less race-focused compound. Also not a fan of EBC. I prefer DP Brakes. But Vesrah is my favorite. For Vesrah I do all I my business with www.kurveygirl.com

It's an NTR1 with a 550lb/in (95N/mm) spring in Titanium *color* for a <170lb rider. I can get different spring rates but they won't necessarily be their trademark blue or dark gray, but rather dark red or yellow. Love the Gen1 'priller @vex.

Sorry to have confused you. I was describing the slope of the rebound curve and observed value at 10 in/sec not that you wanted to maximize rebound by closing off the needle. It's "typical" of street use to have rebound rates in the ~6 in/sec speed. I'll have to line up the OE vs K-Tech curves to see where they end up. What I can say though is that just 1 turn out on the OE shock covers a little more than 60% of the damping difference between fully closed and fully open. In other words, the best compromise setting is likely to be within 3/4 turn (and definitely inside of 1.5 turns) of fully closed. @com3 posting wrong information doesn't help anybody. The FZ/FJ09 shock very clearly has a rebound needle adjuster (in theory it could affect comp too - but since the comp is so lacking basically doesn't) and the spring is a straight rate. Aside from cruisers and a handful of other models, it's actually uncommon to find a progressive spring on a shock anymore.

Because the article is talking about race tires which in a day or two of running will wear as much or more as street tires do in 15,000 miles. And also by virtue of the "extreme" forces being put into the carcass actually can show suspension effects.

like most things in life; lefty loosy, righty tighty. You're moving a needle in/out of an orifice.

a couple PSI low is no big deal. measure cold, go do some decent (not start/stop) riding for 10-15 minutes. measure. If pressure difference is inside 10% you're fine. Check again after another 30 min. If the pressure keeps climbing, add 2 psi. repeat test sequence on next ride. 32/32 or 32/34 cold (~70F)should be plenty fine for 230lbs. It depends on the tire how much they warm up too. But we're talking like 3-4psi range.

The OE shock is a useless pile of junk. I've started a thread on that "other" FZ09 forum about comparative analysis of various rear shocks. I'll replicate it here hopefully later this week. It has f'all compression damping and the rebound even at fully closed is about the same as 1/2 way open on the K-Tech or Ohlins. A constant rate spring by definition moves the same X distance for same Y force no matter how much you preload it. What preload does is alter the balance point (pushing war between gravity and spring's potential energy) provided the spring doesn't have so much preload the shock is topped out. At that point then the 'Y' has to be big enough to overcome the potential energy. Some good reading: http://www.sportrider.com/technicalities-spring-rate-and-preload http://www.worksperformance.com/html/tpl_desc.html

its important what year shock you have. tank interference normally isn't the problem - battery box might.

oh speaking of, I do happen to have a new one sitting on my shelf due to a cancellation earlier this spring.

Nitron shocks are built in UK and take (sometimes a good) while to show up State-side. There is a decent service network in USA but say you have a local (ride up) service center for Ohlins or Penske vs having to send the Nitron thru the post. That's what I was referring to. In some countries non-Ohlins techs are few and far between. I can get you a modest (compared to what I can do on other brands) discount on Nitron and if you want him to, one of my sources can adjust the valving to suit your desires. Just ask @xlxr about his customized Ohlins.