njfj Posted December 31, 2021 Share Posted December 31, 2021 Hello, I recently bought a set of stainless steel brake lines to install on my 2016 FJ09- I had seen around the internet that you need to "cycle" the ABS module to remove the old brake fluid when flushing brake fluid or installing new brake lines. Is there any way to do this at home? I'm trying to avoid yet another expensive dealer trip. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member texscottyd Posted December 31, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted December 31, 2021 Hi @njfj- You can definitely do it yourself with a bit of patience, and I’m not even sure there is a formal process for ‘cycling’ the ABS pump by the dealer. After draining, removing, and replacing the lines (tedious, but not difficult… search for threads here on the process), you can fill and bleed the system just like any other hydraulic brakes. My 2015 FJ took a bit of persuasion to get fluid moving initially, but was easy from that point on. A one-way bleed tool (speed bleeder screws or an external bleed hose) really helps. After you’re convinced it’s bled (no bubbles, clean fluid, firm lever/pedal), go find some low friction surface, like sand or gravel, and CAREFULLY activate the ABS. Do it at low speed, obviously, and use appropriate caution. The rear is easy, the front took me some faith to intentionally activate. Once back at your garage, bleed them thoroughly again to get any last bubbles that may have pushed out from the ABS. I got a small bubble from the rear, nothing additional on the front. Good luck, and let us know how it goes. You’ll like the brake feel improvement with the steel lines. -Scott 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted December 31, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted December 31, 2021 1 hour ago, njfj said: Hello, I recently bought a set of stainless steel brake lines to install on my 2016 FJ09- I had seen around the internet that you need to "cycle" the ABS module to remove the old brake fluid when flushing brake fluid or installing new brake lines. Is there any way to do this at home? I'm trying to avoid yet another expensive dealer trip. Thanks! @texscottyd pretty much summed it up. When you have the new lines installed, it might take a bit of effort to initially get new fluid flowing through the system, a vacuum pump helps a lot, take your time and have patience. Once the system is filled with fluid you do not need a vacuum pump to further bleed the system, just bleed normally with speed bleeders or a check valve bleeder. https://www.jbtools.com/mityvac-mv8000-automotive-vacuum-test-and-bleed-kit/?wi=off&wi=off&wi=off&wi=off&wi=off&wi=off&wi=off&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=cpc_a10-d50&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bqOBhANEiwA-sIlN2XQlGK-5egqkh9z0SVtxgDt2RmTteU0JzhGXt6eV9I3h1GXxiBPHxoCxMcQAvD_BwE 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njfj Posted December 31, 2021 Author Share Posted December 31, 2021 Thanks both! This isn't my first time flushing brakes or even installing stainless lines- just first time on a bike with ABS! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 1, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 1, 2022 I disagree that a vacuum bleeder should not be used through completion if the lever is still "soft" (can move beyond normal MC piston stroke travel), at least on a bike with any miles / age on it. Corrosion on the MC bore and hard micro contaminants in the "bottom" of the cylinder can damage the piston O-rings / seals when it travels deeper into the cylinder than it normally goes. Using speed bleeders and check valve bleeders permit the piston to stroke down into the cylinder where it never has gone before. Consequently, I was trained to use vacuum or pressure bleeding equipment, and not pump the lever / pedal; or at least not beyond the MC pistons normal stroke range of travel; which is very difficult to control and gauge. Master cylinder piston O-ring / seal damage / failure is almost always why they need to be rebuilt or replaced. Just my 2 cents based on a few (48) years of experience... 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted January 1, 2022 Premium Member Share Posted January 1, 2022 HNY BTW! I pray 22 is better than the prior two! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanquick Posted January 1, 2022 Share Posted January 1, 2022 Hi - just fitted stainless lines to rear brake - had to remove metal lines from ABS unit & put in a vice to slacken nipples - ABS light still on- bled using vacuum pump - Could anyone please confirm which line goes to right hand ABS unit connection - ie - from rear caliper or brake pedal master cylinder- As an engineer embarrassed did not mark them properly. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted January 2, 2022 Supporting Member Share Posted January 2, 2022 5 hours ago, allanquick said: Hi - just fitted stainless lines to rear brake - had to remove metal lines from ABS unit & put in a vice to slacken nipples - ABS light still on- bled using vacuum pump - Could anyone please confirm which line goes to right hand ABS unit connection - ie - from rear caliper or brake pedal master cylinder- As an engineer embarrassed did not mark them properly. Thanks This is a diagram I drew when I replaced mine. 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njfj Posted January 12, 2022 Author Share Posted January 12, 2022 Thanks all- the install went well, I was shocked at how hard these brakes pull now! I was only able to take the bike out for a few minutes (damn arctic blast!) and will bleed them one more time after a long ride and a few hard stops. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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