Tracer 9 USB port install

[petshark]

I want to install this USB/voltmeter on the 9. I thought it would be the same as on my 900 GT but got stuck when I couldn't remove the plastic around the dash. 

I've now got my hands on the service manual and getting to the DC port requires removing everything below, it is the last step.
Just wondering if someone has found a quicker way perhaps before I disassemble the entire front for such a simple task.

Edited July 9, 2022 by petshark

[HGP61]

6 hours ago, petshark said:

I thought it would be the same as on my 900 GT

That does look like a proper Faff, definitely easier on the previous models. 

[jthayer09]

5 hours ago, KellyL said:

How about one of these for $10 instead?

The stock AUX DC jack on these bikes is 24W with a wimpy 2A fuse that will be shorted by even a tire inflator, and slow charges most devices, putting in a USB adapter doesn't solve that problem.

I personally use a handlebar USB port hooked directly to the battery via my battery tender pig tail, wiring routed under the gas tank:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JM3NWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From the pictures it looks like @petshark wants even faster charging speeds with a USB PD spec charger 😮

[knyte]

6 hours ago, KellyL said:

How about one of these for $10 instead?

I tried something like that in my FJ, and it just rattles it's way out so as it looses the connectivity and doesn't charge at all

[petshark]

16 hours ago, knyte said:

I tried something like that in my FJ, and it just rattles it's way out so as it looses the connectivity and doesn't charge at all

I haven't tried those myself but I have heard that these disconnect themselves indeed. On the 9 the port is completely horizontal so it will be even more likely to happen.

18 hours ago, jthayer09 said:

The stock AUX DC jack on these bikes is 24W with a wimpy 2A fuse that will be shorted by even a tire inflator, and slow charges most devices, putting in a USB adapter doesn't solve that problem.

I personally use a handlebar USB port hooked directly to the battery via my battery tender pig tail, wiring routed under the gas tank:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JM3NWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From the pictures it looks like @petshark wants even faster charging speeds with a USB PD spec charger 😮

That's an awesome solution but TBH I don't care about charging times. I've actually never even used the port on my 900GT. I just like it to be there just in case I run out of battery on my phone and really need to call or if I forget to charge my Cardo (which lasts multiple days). I have a Tomtom and my phone is in my pocket and never runs out of juice, even when listening to podcasts on the Cardo all day long.

What's more I already have the little bugger, just need to get it installed. Looks like I'll be getting to know my new 9 a little better and remove everything in the picture. 

[Bernard]

I'd hold off till you next lift your tank for service but if you want an easier solution, you just need to remove the left hand cowling up front on the lower end to wire into the spare auxiliary port. The spare aux wiring is there with a factory connector which can be used. As others said, be mindful of how much power you're trying to pull through the charger. I ended up using this USB/Voltmeter in place which was plug and play with an extra inline fuse (shouldn't blow since the fuse at the panel is rated for lower amps).

 

Ran the line up to my handlebars where I ziptied around the cylinder and then a ziptie to hold it to the bars. Works like a charm for those moments where you're in a bind.

 

For those of you encountering trouble with the factory 12v port and items coming lose, you can shim the connection with a thick piece of plastic. I had a some around which worked great, happy to measure the thickness if it helps anyone or add pictures of the shim + ziptied usb charger.

[jthayer09]

5 hours ago, KellyL said:

I disagree with the comment re: standard port isn't good enough for smart device charging. 24W max from the standard accessory port translates to a maximum 5V/4.8A on a USB adapter, which is well within USB 3.1/3.2 spec. Plenty for a phone (most of which only draw a max of 3A); even the latest iPad USB-C charger is only up to 20W.

I run an old iPhone SE as a ghetto satnav on my Niken via a USB port adapter and lightning cable. The battery never drops below 100%. Never had a problem with an adapter coming loose, but the plug is upright-diagonal on the three wheeler.

Edit: just had a look at that SAE-to-dual USB power adapter on Amazon - it outputs 5V/4.8A combined max, which is 24W - the same as the cigarette lighter port 😂 (And only 12W max per USB)

You're not wrong that the total output of 24W is the same but I think you're missing the context/usage case; there's a reason why different fuses exist and why different charging standards exist. Getting 24W by using 12v*2A is different than getting it with 5v*4.8A (or in this case 2.5v*2.4A = 12W per port).

Plugging my tire inflator into the stock auxilary DC socket does in fact blow the fuse, I've done it; the inflator is designed to pull more than 2A to get to power needed and being a "dumb" device it doesn't stop itself. And yeah, I'm dumb for thinking that it would work.

Nothing wrong with having a second option for a device you know will eat the 2.0A fuse.

[petshark]

40 minutes ago, Bernard said:

I'd hold off till you next lift your tank for service

...

For those of you encountering trouble with the factory 12v port and items coming lose, you can shim the connection with a thick piece of plastic. I had a some around which worked great, happy to measure the thickness if it helps anyone or add pictures of the shim + ziptied usb charger.

I think I might go this route after all. I got started but then realized that there is even more to remove than I thought;

see number 0:

As I said I don't even actually use it, it's just a backup so I might look into that insert thing and find a way to make it more resilient to coming loose. If it doens't work for some reason I can still install the port when I have to remove all those parts for another job. 

Thanks for the tips everyone!