Tools Required for Rebuilding Forks

[kilo3]

After exhausting my local resources for someone to rebuild my front forks, $500 dollars plus, seems excessive.

So in reality, what specialty tools are required to tear down my forks and swap springs/fluid?

In addition, what tools are not so much required but make life a heck of a lot easier?

As preface, I have no qualms about tearing apart an engine and putting it back together but suspension always seems like black magic to me with oil weights, measuring crap...ect so that's my background.

[RaYzerman]

How many miles on these forks?  This can determine whether you need to go whole hog or a partial.  I have not specifically done Tracer forks but they're not all that complicated by the looks of it.  I'm sure some Tracer-experienced guy will come along soon.......

Read up on the service manual procedure.... depending on how far you go will depend on tools needed.  There are aftermarket tools or many times you can make your own.

Whole hog - total disassembly, optional take cartridges out, but replace bushings and seals.  Bushings may be damaged on disassembly.

Partial - only springs, flush and fresh oil, no seal or bushing replacement (thus minimal disassembly), uisually low mileage so bushings are not worn

Buy the fork spring compressor and wrench tools, definitely necessary, have a third hand to help you compress the springs.  You can swap out springs with only this.  Many places to buy these.

New springs may not be same length as OEM, thus you could be making new spacers, adding preload washers or.... follow instructions of the spring maker.

If seals are leaking, you need to disassemble further by slide hammering apart, could damage bushings, so the seal and bushing kit recommended as far as parts go.

Cartridge removal - IF you're doing this, first loosen the bolt at the bottom of the forks, before you remove the top fork cap.  You most likely need a cartridge holding tool, which can be DIY in the thread below.  You only need to remove it to upgrade valving or installing aftermarkets.  In my experience, most USD forks do not have dirty oil, thus I'd drain and flush with some fresh fork oil, then add new oil.  IMHO, no need to remove cartridges unless you absolutely need to or are replacing them.

Before you take the forks off the bike, loosen top pinch bolt and loosen fork cap until the upper O-ring is exposed.  Easier now than later (in a vice). 

Once off (and cartridge bolt loosened if you're going there), undo fork cap and drain the oil.  Then proceed with the remainder of disassembly, flush with solvent if oil dirty, then with some fresh oil, drain and refill to desired oil level (spring manufacturer recommendation) but no higher than OEM level.

Use oil volume as rough guide, but do a physical level check..... fork compressed, no springs, from top of fork tube to oil.... OEM spec. 175mm.  You can vary this (down) if you want more air gap.  No need to be perfectly precise a mm or two means nothing.

IF you're doing seals and bushings, need bushing and seal driver tools..... make your own from plumbing fittings and PVC or ABS pipe, whatever fits ID of bushings and OD of seals.... use old bushings/oil seal retaining washers as tools to drive bushings (hint order an extra oil seal washer).

IF this is a low miler bike and seals not leaking, I'd just put in my new oil and springs and call it a day.  If the seals leak or if you simply want new ones,  then go whole hog.

https://www.fz09.org/threads/diy-damper-rod-holder-tool.64128/

 

[piotrek]

To only remove/install spring and change the oil you will need:

• 24mm socket (fork cap)
• Simple spring compressor/holder fork, like this or similar
• 14mm wrench for the fork cap jam nut
• OPTIONAL 17mm wrench to use on the fork cap just above the jam nut to counter rotation
• Damper bleed tool, like this or similar
• Extra pair of hands to insert/remove the spring holder fork
• Oil and level per manual or as you wish
• Oil level tool, like this or similar

...assuming things are dimensionally the same as the FJ... 🤔

Edited December 12, 2022 by piotrek

[kilo3]

I mean it can't be that difficult.... Alright I'll order up some tools and see if I can't break something. Either way I'm going to make a mess it seems.

[OZVFR]

18 hours ago, kilo3 said:

Either way I'm going to make a mess it seems.

That I can nearly guarantee.

Every time I've rebuilt, valved and resprung forks I've managed to find a new way to make a mess.

The last time while doing my 1050 Sprint forks, I was very pleased that I finished and managed to not spill or spray oil anywhere. I then proceeded to put my foot in the oil pan and kick it across my driveway while wearing new sneakers.

Pretty sure it's  one of the laws of physics.

Edited December 13, 2022 by OZVFR

[PhotoAl]

I did them on my FZ6, not as difficult as would have thought.  I bought the fork seal tool - one time use but if I ever need one I have it LOL!  I believe it is 41 and every bike since then has been 43 so go figure.

You can do a dump and refill which I probably should do at 26,000 miles if everything is working OK.  Other things are restringing and then all the way up to guides and seals.  Good idea to check for stiction while you have them off. I really need to service mine but only a bit over 2 years old so a dump and refill would probably be good enough for me.  I'd like to go the full Ohlins route but then again suspension is OK (not perfect) and I do a lot of long trips and will probably trade the bike in 2 to 3 years (or less if something catches my eye).

Edited December 14, 2022 by PhotoAl

[fr8dog]

On 12/12/2022 at 9:32 AM, kilo3 said:

After exhausting my local resources for someone to rebuild my front forks, $500 dollars plus, seems excessive.

So in reality, what specialty tools are required to tear down my forks and swap springs/fluid?

In addition, what tools are not so much required but make life a heck of a lot easier?

As preface, I have no qualms about tearing apart an engine and putting it back together but suspension always seems like black magic to me with oil weights, measuring crap...ect so that's my background.

Stoltec moto has a lot of aftermarket parts for the fj. They rent a tool kit specifically for the fj to work on the forks. Last I checked it was around 50 bucks.

I'm all for diy just to get some tools, but renting seemed a bit more practical for me.

 

[bwringer]

I used this $30 spring compressor kit from the Brazilian River. It worked great. It's strong, well-made, and overall it made for a much higher-quality forking experience all around. Yes, I've made and used homemade tools for upside-down forks, but a purpose-built tool works so much better than anything you can achieve at home without a lathe and/or mill.

https://www.amazon.com/UNIVERSAL-MOTORCYCLE-COMPRESSOR-SREETBIKE-AIRCRAFT/dp/B08FT2CR5R

 

I already had a damper rod tool -- this is also essential. Mine was from Pit Posse, but there are others.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptm-pp2730?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAheacBhB8EiwAItVO2zBJ-_aPguU3kqeMIT1STy7hfJ8Up2_RKbAqzTIcwbqLAgZpR1uBiRoCpGYQAvD_BwE

And you'll want a decent fork seal driver set. Mine's a cheapie adjustable set from Cycle Gear. Works just fine.