Tracer 9 GT Trunk Install Issues...

[cgreaseman]

Hi all,

I spent the morning of this beautiful 4th of July attempting to install a rear luggage rack and case for my 2022 Tracer 9 GT (Shad case and rack). All was going swimmingly until I attempted to remove the T30 Security bolts located at the back of the grab bars just above the rear taillight. I got the left side bolt out no problem with a L-shaped wrench, but the throttle side wasn't budging. I worried about stripping it, so I bought an impact-rated bit for my (fairly low torque) electric impact driver. The bolt bent the Milwaukee bit to shit and still wouldn't move, and the bolt was much worse for wear since the bit started spinning in the head. There's no way I can keep going at it with the same bit, so I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion for getting it out in this state? Or if I should just take it to the shop? The nut the bolt goes into is welded into the frame, so there's no way I can get it off from the bottom. I dunno who installed the bolt, but they used too many ugga duggas. I'm thinking of filing away the sides and trying to get a wrench on it, but if that fails I'm not sure a shop would even be able to get it out.

Photo of the mangled bolt is attached.

 

Edited July 4, 2023 by cgreaseman
changed 'drive' to 'throttle'

[skipperT]

48 minutes ago, cgreaseman said:

Hi all,

I spent the morning of this beautiful 4th of July attempting to install a rear luggage rack and case for my 2022 Tracer 9 GT (Shad case and rack). All was going swimmingly until I attempted to remove the T30 Security bolts located at the back of the grab bars just above the rear taillight. I got the left side bolt out no problem with a L-shaped wrench, but the throttle side wasn't budging. I worried about stripping it, so I bought an impact-rated bit for my (fairly low torque) electric impact driver. The bolt bent the Milwaukee bit to shit and still wouldn't move, and the bolt was much worse for wear since the bit started spinning in the head. There's no way I can keep going at it with the same bit, so I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion for getting it out in this state? Or if I should just take it to the shop? The nut the bolt goes into is welded into the frame, so there's no way I can get it off from the bottom. I dunno who installed the bolt, but they used too many ugga duggas. I'm thinking of filing away the sides and trying to get a wrench on it, but if that fails I'm not sure a shop would even be able to get it out.

Photo of the mangled bolt is attached.

 

Hate to say it, but right tool for the job.

You need the proper Safety Torx bit, a hammer and an impact driver (not a power tool). Heat the head of the bolt carefully to loosen the loctite and have at it. 

-Skip

 https://shop.snapon.com/product/Impact-Drivers-(3-8")/3-8"-Drive-Impact-Driver/PIT120

[PhotoAl]

Hard to tell but looks like the center part is still there.  Either drill or grind it out or get the proper tool like @skipperT says.  Looks like mangled part is at the top and the rest of the "flats" are still in good enough shape to get a proper tool on.  Many years ago my brother and I were trying to get the case screws out of a small Honda motorcycle.  We weren't doing well and my dad came over and showed us how to use an impact driver.  Its a cherished memory as my dad has been gone almost 25 years.

If it is too mangled for the proper but to fit on it is time to get out a drill and drill out the head.  You could drill it out and use an easy out on it but I would probably drill it out, very carefully, so the head of the bolt comes off.  Take off the hand rail and then use vice grips to remove the threaded portion of the bolt.  Sometime tonight get on Partzilla and order a new bolt.  You will want one even if you are successful in getting this one out - it looks bad.

Don't worry too much about messing it up this time.  Next time you do it is your fault.  Always get the right tool for the job.  I don't know why they used a security bolt there - worried about someone stealing a girlfriend off the back maybe haha.  A lot of fasteners are not torqued that tight but sometimes ...  For high torque stuff it is even more critical to have the right tool.  I tried to take my rear sprocket nuts off with 12 point sockets.  I was very careful and no problems till the last one - LOL well I was a bit careless and mangled the nut.  Bought a set of the sockets from Northern Tool that will grip almost anything and they took it right off.  Also I tossed my 12 point sockets.

 

Edited July 5, 2023 by PhotoAl

[cgreaseman]

5 hours ago, skipperT said:

Hate to say it, but right tool for the job.

You need the proper Safety Torx bit, a hammer and an impact driver (not a power tool). Heat the head of the bolt carefully to loosen the loctite and have at it. 

-Skip

 https://shop.snapon.com/product/Impact-Drivers-(3-8")/3-8"-Drive-Impact-Driver/PIT120

I did have the proper tools. A T30 Security Bit and a Craftsman handheld impact driver. The bolt was so tight that it bent my Milwaukee T30  bit and the piece started to spin inside the bolt. Shop time?

 

Quote

Take off the hand rail and then use vice grips to remove the threaded portion of the bolt. 

I'd love to, but the handrails are attached with this bolt. I took the rear light out to try and get a better vantage point but there's not enough space for any tool to get in there and grip the bottom of the bolt.

Quote

You could drill it out and use an easy out on it but I would probably drill it out, very carefully, so the head of the bolt comes off.

If I couldn't get the bolt out with the T30 bit and an impact driver, I doubt I'm going to get it out with a set of vice grips.

[GT09]

Hi cgreaseman

Yes I had the same problem, snapped T30 bit. So what I did was remove the pannier holders and the plastic's around the rear. This allowed enough room to get a spanner in so I could bolt the rack on nice and tight.

I did this job a couple of years ago, and on reflection I think Yamaha make these bolts hard to remove so people like us don't do the fitting ourselves and risking 50 L boxes flying down the road.

Good luck

Greg

Edited July 5, 2023 by GT09

[OldBikers]

I'm glad I had the shop do it for me.  The mechanic was sweating and swearing.  They replaced the security bolts with slightly longer ones and bolted the rack slightly different from the instructions.  Overall they charged me 1.5 hours to do the job and they have the right tools.

[skipperT]

10 hours ago, cgreaseman said:

I did have the proper tools. A T30 Security Bit and a Craftsman handheld impact driver. The bolt was so tight that it bent my Milwaukee T30  bit and the piece started to spin inside the bolt. Shop time?

Yup. 
a bit of heat back at the beginning may have helped. Too late now. 
-S

[PhotoAl]

I was thinking that the front bolt came off and the head the grab bar would come right off and you would have the remains of the bolt sticking out and easy to deal with.  Certainly a hassle for sure

[miweber929]

Impact driver, not powered impact wrench:

https://www.northerntool.com/products/performance-tool-3-8in-impact-driver-with-4-bits-model-w2500p-9094203?cm_mmc=Google-LIA&utm_source=Google_LIA&utm_medium=Hand Tools > Screwdrivers&utm_campaign=Performance Tool&utm_content=9094203&ogmap=SHP|LIA|GOOG|STND|c|SITEWIDE|||||857741010|42214670543&gclid=Cj0KCQjw756lBhDMARIsAEI0AgmdAYZ7g78oJrpIeIra56I_GSqRLGjTk5gqL4MuyEYLsBhQV5sb03IaAsWjEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Best $20 tool you’ll ever have. 

[TracerNed]

I know my response is late to this problem.  The exact same thing happened to me when I was installing my trunk.  I slowly drilled the bolt head off and the was easily able to remove the threaded section that remained.  It was a fairly quick process.  I did stop a couple times to sharpen the drill bit. I vacuumed the shavings from the bike when done.

Edited August 6, 2023 by TracerNed
added picture