Best threads, about 1) swapping rear shock from another bike 2)Raceteck gold valve/ spring fork upgrades

[dazzler24]

On 10/29/2023 at 11:23 PM, 2and3cylinders said:

Thanks D-Man!

I thought it was weird that the lowering links would be longer, as I had not seen the thread you linked.

One thing you did not respond to was ground clearance, as "How low can we go?".

Yes, the bike did look and feel much lower under the belly - so there is that to consider (I didn't go to the trouble to measure it though).  I never touched down anywhere, however I was very cautious over the larger speed bumps and took that sort of thing real slow.  There are even shorter bones from Lust Racing and the like to get you down even lower but the OEMs were as far as I would like to go given the underbelly clearance issue.

Also the effect on turn-in without lowering the front.

I lowered the front a similar amount at the same time as doing the dog bones so to me the bike 'felt' the same as far as handling was concerned.

My objective is to be able to mount and dismount without using the Cowboy technique; which I've finally just about mastered; except when I'm fairly tired. Then I sometimes catch my right heel on the left pillion grab bar or nick the top case when dismounting.

A more vertical stance though would make the Cowboy technique that much more precarious, and I'm always very conscious of the angle of my dangle everywhere I park as it is.  Don't want to go over Starboard side, nor flip both of us down on the Portside!!!

I have, on occasions, done the 'Cowboy' in the bikes current configuration and TBH I would be more comfortable when the bike is more upright (i.e. lowered) performing that maneuver.  I feel that I'm more likely to pull the bike over when the bike is leaning more.  Not that it's a concern, but more of an observation. YMMV of course.

My custom Sargent saddle is up about 3/4" but also a bit wider at the front.  I also have pilot pegs that are down less than 3/4" and forward under 5/8".  I don't want to run the saddle in the low position either, as I need to maximize leg room for my back and hip issues.  So shorter dogbones my be my only option. 

Yes, I think I understand what you're trying to achieve.  Maybe not take a lean too deep with the lowered pegs AND the lowered bike though?

I was going to shorten my Razor. R the maybe 1.5 threads or so left to slow the turn-in anyway and not drop the front; which may or may not be necessary with the dogbones.  I'm not sure why my turn-in is telepathically too quick.

Maybe it's my extended belly and probiscus...

Ha!  As an engineer you should be able to do the mechanical calculations on that with the moment of force that's applied. 😉

This will be a good winter project, as I'm sending my Razor-R in for a refresh anyway.

Do you think minus 15mm is enough, as I see 20 and even 30mm shorter dogbones available?

Only you will be able to answer that but as mentioned earlier - ground clearance considerations?

Thanks once more. 

I have long been aware of the fickle weather at PI, and wonder why they don't schedule the MotoGP races farther into your summer like Superbike does.  I know that MotoGP needs to group their regional flyaways logistically but it's still a bit of a nutter.

My responses are inside the quote 👆

[2and3cylinders]

14 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

My responses are inside the quote 👆

👍

[OZVFR]

I’ve got the Yamaha lowering links on my 15  and dropped the front by the same amount (15mm). No problems with the stand scraping but I’ve cut the ridiculously high stop rubber as can be seen in this picture, and have replaced my suspension on both ends  

I do however scrape my pegs even though they have a lot shorter feelers. They do stick out a bit more and this might be the cause. 


 

No difference in handling and much better with no front end dive. 
I’m a bit careful though with speed humps, otherwise no problem at all even fully loaded. Actually it is worlds apart from the stock set up.