Best threads, about 1) swapping rear shock from another bike 2)Raceteck gold valve/ spring fork upgrades

[arthur]

Hi,

. Good day to you!

Well my seasonal job ended today, and I need something to do

I would just like to know if there are any threads that people would particularly recommend  regarding putting another- better rear shock in from another bike, or threads that discuss front suspension upgrades.

I don't mind reading through all the threads, but in the past I've found that one are two threads are outstanding.

Thank you

 

2015 FJ09  8000ish Kms

[texscottyd]

Not sure if it qualifies as a best thread, but here’s some content and discussion about the Ohlins/RaceTech combination I did on my 2015 FJ.   

I’m not aware of great options for swapping the factory shock from another bike, but there are several strong aftermarket shock options available off the shelf (if you can justify the $$$).   

 

[RaYzerman]

Swapping shocks from another bike usually doesn't gain much if anything with damping, but maybe you'll get a bit better spring...... why not just re-spring the shock you have, springs are ~$100.  The other thing you can do is see if there's a local suspension shop that does rebuilding of OEM shocks, and can possibly revise the valving as well as re-spring.....

What I've also done is buy a HyperPro progressive spring... they don't publish their spring rates, but it will be better than what you have.

Edited October 28, 2023 by RaYzerman

[betoney]

5 hours ago, arthur said:

2015 FJ09  8000ish Kms

With the first Gen FJ a suspension upgrade is an enormous improvement, the best money you will ever spend on the bike.

[arthur]

Thank you to all,

 

I looked on progressive website - interesting stuff - they have a 25mm lower rear spring which presumably drops the back end down 15mm or so. 95 euros is affordable too (for the rear shock). Actually, although I have owned 15 motorbikes or so, I am least comfortable on this one partly because how high it is (I've dropped the front 7mm) so the idea of my bike sitting a little lower is very appealing..

 

 

when you say you put a progressive spring in - I'm guessing you are talking about the front..? Racetech states the stock is 0.70kg/mm, and that I should go with 0.93 = I have to choose between 0.90, and 0.95

I'm thinking of 0.90 because 95% of the time I am riding solo without luggage...

 

Thank you all

 

 

[Heli ATP]

14 hours ago, RaYzerman said:

What I've also done is buy a HyperPro progressive spring... they don't publish their spring rates, but it will be better than what you have.

I second this. Hyperpro is a reasonable priced solution with lowering options also...

https://www.webshop-hyperpro.com/en/products

[RD52]

5 hours ago, arthur said:

Thank you to all,

 

I looked on progressive website - interesting stuff - they have a 25mm lower rear spring which presumably drops the back end down 15mm or so. 95 euros is affordable too (for the rear shock). Actually, although I have owned 15 motorbikes or so, I am least comfortable on this one partly because how high it is (I've dropped the front 7mm) so the idea of my bike sitting a little lower is very appealing..

 

 

when you say you put a progressive spring in - I'm guessing you are talking about the front..? Racetech states the stock is 0.70kg/mm, and that I should go with 0.93 = I have to choose between 0.90, and 0.95

I'm thinking of 0.90 because 95% of the time I am riding solo without luggage...

 

Thank you all

 

 

Luggage and passenger weight don't play into the fork spring rate very much, all that weight is over the rear axle.

Go with 0.95s

[thanks4thefish]

I'm now working on buying a rear shock from a bike that has a remote preload knob. I see them on eBay for 60 bucks and right now trying to do research to see if it will fit in same spot as the FJ-09 space. It's just a royal pain to have to adjust the rear for 2 up with a heavy load to all bags and box off for the sport bike that lurks under the skin of the FJ. 

 

[RD52]

On 10/27/2023 at 4:55 PM, arthur said:

Hi,

. Good day to you!

Well my seasonal job ended today, and I need something to do

I would just like to know if there are any threads that people would particularly recommend  regarding putting another- better rear shock in from another bike, or threads that discuss front suspension upgrades.

I don't mind reading through all the threads, but in the past I've found that one are two threads are outstanding.

Thank you

 

2015 FJ09  8000ish Kms

Finding a shock from another bike that will be an improvement is difficult.

A shock needs 3 things in order for it to be better.

It has to fit. Right type of mounts both top and bottom, and the reservoir and/or preload adjuster have to fit in the space available. 

The spring rate has to be in the ball park. The Tracer shock spring is very soft (at least on my 2020, and I'm only 165lbs) so I'm thinking about 30% stiffer, at a minumum.

The length has to be right. And "right" doesn't necessarily mean "the same as stock". This is what most people miss, shock length is a crucial parameter in chassis geometry. And because of the linkage ratio magnifying things, even small differences are important. 1mm can be felt on a race bike, 3mm the average street rider will notice, 6-7 is a big change. Most street bikes will handle better with a slighter longer rear shock, but there are exceptions. 

Good aftermarket shocks are expensive, but if you want a combination of comfort and handling they're likely your only option.

[OZVFR]

8 hours ago, arthur said:

Thank you to all,

 

I looked on progressive website - interesting stuff - they have a 25mm lower rear spring which presumably drops the back end down 15mm or so. 95 euros is affordable too (for the rear shock). Actually, although I have owned 15 motorbikes or so, I am least comfortable on this one partly because how high it is (I've dropped the front 7mm) so the idea of my bike sitting a little lower is very appealing..

 

 

when you say you put a progressive spring in - I'm guessing you are talking about the front..? Racetech states the stock is 0.70kg/mm, and that I should go with 0.93 = I have to choose between 0.90, and 0.95

I'm thinking of 0.90 because 95% of the time I am riding solo without luggage...

 

Thank you all

 

 

You can also swap out the rear linkage dog bone with a stock or after market lowering link.

Then you won't lose lose suspension travel, much better option than shorter spring.

And also agree to go with the 0.95.

[dazzler24]

Not exactly what you asked but FWIW, this is what I went with for front and back on my 2015 bike.  As already stated, any/most aftermarket suspension makes for a huge improvement.

Also, lowering dog bones is an option as well as per OZVFR suggestion.  Last photo is of OEM lowering links next to standard links.

 

 

 

[2and3cylinders]

So you run the longer (counter-intuitive) 1RC OEM lowering links yourself. 

I presume you like them but what are your observations?

What is their effective drop?

They only look about 6mm longer but with the geometry that could equate to 25mm.

How much more does it lean on the side stand; is it scary?

And what about the tire / tarmac clearance on the centerstand?

I'd guess it slows down steering which can be counteracted by raising the forks and/or maxing out the Razor R length (which defeats the original intent).

How much is road ground clearance reduced (we're already too low)?

Your weather should be heating up but it sure blew up the PI races!

Thanks

[2and3cylinders]

Oh and how did you get the link nuts loose? I tried when I changed the whole assembly out with a low-mile used set and was going to clean and grease my originals for spares.

Bugger tight but I didn't try using a hot air gun or micro-torch.

Would these do the trick?

15mm seems like plenty.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172714421336

I've got a lot of maintenance to catch up on this winter but I usually can ride till mid-December.

[dazzler24]

Actually 2 plus 3,  the shorter links are the lowering ones and the 1RC labelled bones are the stock links - see this earlier post.  There's bugger-all difference in length between them but as noted the effect is magnified by the geometry.  Here's a pic of them both, one on top of the other.
 

And just to be clear, I used to run the lowering links but that was a few years back.  I changed back to the stocks around about the time I got the Bagster seat as that was lower and I did some shaving off of the rubber mounts to go even lower.

When I was originally 'lowered' with the bones (by about 15mm IIRC) I also lowered the front a similar amount and the whole effect was quite noticeable in the saddle.  I didn't have any issues with the side stand as some have reported but I was also more discerning/conscious of the ground level where I would park.  It was more upright for sure but not teeteringly so - for me at least.  Using the centre stand did require a little more effort to deploy but just add more oomph and it'll pop right up. 🙂

And as you've noted, the Razor-R is adjustable so I could fiddle further with that to change my heights (and turn in) if I wanted to but I'm happy with the way it performs now so have left that length same as stock.

The weather you ask?  Yes, starting to warm up in my neck of the woods.  Down south, some big highs and lows conspired to turn up the breeze for the Island race.  Not entirely uncommon down there mind you. They don't call the wind down there the "Roaring Forties" for nothing.

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

So you run the longer (counter-intuitive) 1RC OEM lowering links yourself. 

I presume you like them but what are your observations?

What is their effective drop?

They only look about 6mm longer but with the geometry that could equate to 25mm.

How much more does it lean on the side stand; is it scary?

And what about the tire / tarmac clearance on the centerstand?

I'd guess it slows down steering which can be counteracted by raising the forks and/or maxing out the Razor R length (which defeats the original intent).

How much is road ground clearance reduced (we're already too low)?

Your weather should be heating up but it sure blew up the PI races!

Thanks

I don't recall exactly how I got those link nuts off but pretty sure it was not a struggle

3 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Oh and how did you get the link nuts loose? I tried when I changed the whole assembly out with a low-mile used set and was going to clean and grease my originals for spares.

Bugger tight but I didn't try using a hot air gun or micro-torch.

Would these do the trick?

15mm seems like plenty.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/172714421336

I've got a lot of maintenance to catch up on this winter but I usually can ride till mid-December.

 

[2and3cylinders]

Thanks D-Man!

I thought it was weird that the lowering links would be longer, as I had not seen the thread you linked.

One thing you did not respond to was ground clearance, as "How low can we go?".

Also the effect on turn-in without lowering the front.

My objective is to be able to mount and dismount without using the Cowboy technique; which I've finally just about mastered; except when I'm fairly tired. Then I sometimes catch my right heel on the left pillion grab bar or nick the top case when dismounting.

A more vertical stance though would make the Cowboy technique that much more precarious, and I'm always very conscious of the angle of my dangle everywhere I park as it is.  Don't want to go over Starboard side, nor flip both of us down on the Portside!!!

My custom Sargent saddle is up about 3/4" but also a bit wider at the front.  I also have pilot pegs that are down less than 3/4" and forward under 5/8".  I don't want to run the saddle in the low position either, as I need to maximize leg room for my back and hip issues.  So shorter dogbones my be my only option. 

I was going to shorten my Razor. R the maybe 1.5 threads or so left to slow the turn-in anyway and not drop the front; which may or may not be necessary with the dogbones.  I'm not sure why my turn-in is telepathically too quick.  Maybe it's my extended belly and probiscus...

This will be a good winter project, as I'm sending my Razor-R in for a refresh anyway.

Do you think minus 15mm is enough, as I see 20 and even 30mm shorter dogbones available?

Thanks once more. 

I have long been aware of the fickle weather at PI, and wonder why they don't schedule the MotoGP races farther into your summer like Superbike does.  I know that MotoGP needs to group their regional flyaways logistically but it's still a bit of a nutter.