DIY suspension adjustments

[wordsmith]

Thank you, pattonme. The 'no diss' is just me being polite in a shorthand kind-of way, not intended to suggest I'ma street rapper, or whatever the term is!   I must say that although I sort-of frown upon them, at the same time I do find many of these acronyms such as 'IMHO', 'IIRC', and others, useful in a Forum such as this!  
[em]W - 77yo fuddy-duddy[/em]

[wordsmith]

No diss: what does lulz mean: never seen or heard it before this!   [em]W[/em]

 Seems it's been in use since the 1850s, and had several periods of fashionable use in the 20th century https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=lulz&oq=lulz&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3837j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

No diss, Wessie - but these sources are only of value and help if one knows that they exist!   We've only just had electricity connected, so have a way to go to bring us into the 19th century!   But thank you... [em]W[/em]
 

[robbgt]

For anyone out there that prefers to learn from video instead of reading (like me), Here are a couple of videos that explain the basics on preload/sag and compression/rebound adjusting: 
 
Preload/sag:

 
compression/rebound:

[omarf]

I was experiencing the Death Wobble, so started investigating how to fix it. I saw that some people were using steering stabilizers and others were tweaking their suspensions. I figured I have to optimize my suspension at some point anyway, so did reading up here and other places on sag and dampening. I was a bit lucky also that I had a performance shop set up the suspension on my Indian Scout just a few weeks ago, so have it for a frame of reference for how a tuned suspension feels and sits.
 
I weigh ~220-225 with full gear on. My FJ was set to all the middle values listed in the manual, upon delivery. Only difference was that for the front rebound adjuster, my screw clicks between 1-14, more than the manual's stated 1-12. The manual also does mention that their may be some variability. So I set that one to 7, which should be dead middle for me. I get a little rumble through the bars now, so may soften it up a notch, but for now these are my settings:
 
5' 9", solo with no baggage. 220-225 lb in full gear.
Seat set to low position.
 
Front preload: set to 10mm (3 bars showing). [Factory was 16 mm / 5 bars]
Front rebound: set to 7 clicks back from A setting (on a 1-14 scale)
 
Rear preload: now set to position 5, which is two notches back from max of 7, one notch tighter than default of 4
Rear rebound: left at factory setting for middle position.
 
After these changes, absolutely no Death Wobble at all. And bike feels tighter and more stable overall. Slight sloshiness at original factory settings with fast corners and quick lane changes, now gone. Nose dive with hard breaking vastly decreased. Bike rides smooth and solid, couldn't ask for more.
 
The reasoning I had behind setting my rear preload to 5 was this. I assume middle position is set for a medium size Japanese man, in full gear with factory bags and some light luggage. Assuming 180-200 lb range. Bike's maximum weight limit with two up and full luggage is about 400 lb. I assumed setting of 7 would be for the max weight limit, so way beyond the tightness I would need. That leaves me 5 or 6. Being that I have no luggage and am closer to my presumed middle position's weight, I figured 5 would be about right for me, and lo and behold, it is. I wouldn't want the backend any tighter right now.
 
I set the front preload following instructions posted on here, where person describes halving method. So, I took the factory max (4 mm) and subtracted it from the factory medium, where the bike was set since delivery (16 mm). This gave me a difference of 12 mm. Half of that is 6 mm. 16-6=10 mm. Brought both left and right down to that halfway mark (halfway between middle and max, of course, or 75% point), and don't see a need to decrease or increase at all. Feels very comfortable--a little bit stiff, probably a bit more than the backend, but not by much at all.
 
By sitting up and down on bike, was able to visualize and feel about a 1.5" (40 mm) sag--again, I have my Scout for relative comparison. Will buzz by the dealer in a few days and get the sag officially measured by them, see how far off or on I am. But again, the proof is in the pudding. All headshake previously there is gone, and bike feels great to ride. Also worth noting, a hard push to the front handlebars, or a hard butt bounce on seat, produce only one well-controlled bounce from the respective front and rear suspensions. 
 
Hope this helps someone,
Omar

[nnamssorxela]

Since this is the thread I found all my information on, I figured I would post my questions/results here.
 
I attempted to set my sag today. As I understand it, the sag should be set to ~40mm front and rear. I put the bike on the center stand and got a starting point for both the front and rear with the wheels off the ground. Then I hopped on the bike all geared up (and almost no gas) and had a friend get the new measurements. I made adjustments until I was close to 40mm on both ends. I ended up with the shock on its softest preload setting (smallest "ramp"), and the forks on the hardest (all the way in).
 
I haven't had time to really test the bike in the twisties, but it felt fine on the way back to my place. I'm somewhere between 170 and 190 lbs and I sit pretty much with my nuts against the tank.
 
This doesn't seem right to me. What is everyone else seeing?

[bruceintucson]

Since this is the thread I found all my information on, I figured I would post my questions/results here. 
I attempted to set my sag today. As I understand it, the sag should be set to ~40mm front and rear. I put the bike on the center stand and got a starting point for both the front and rear with the wheels off the ground. Then I hopped on the bike all geared up (and almost no gas) and had a friend get the new measurements. I made adjustments until I was close to 40mm on both ends. I ended up with the shock on its softest preload setting (smallest "ramp"), and the forks on the hardest (all the way in).
 
I haven't had time to really test the bike in the twisties, but it felt fine on the way back to my place. I'm somewhere between 170 and 190 lbs and I sit pretty much with my nuts against the tank.
 
This doesn't seem right to me. What is everyone else seeing?

Ya, can't talk about the rear shock because we have a Penske. But IIRC it was on the second preload setting & rebound 2 turns out from hard. Front forks: I've got 7 lines showing with about 38mm rider sag, rebound out 8-9 clicks; so yes full preload on the front doesn't seem right. 

[gimbertt]

Hello,
 
I am setting up my 2016 Tracer and had to use the same settings as @nnamssorxela. I am about 77kg, in a state of undress so a bit more dressed, and with the front preload maxed out I have 45mm of rider sag. With the least preload on the shock about 28mm of rider sag.
 
Full tank of petrol but no helmet or jacket while I did this as it was 37 Celsius. 
 
This seems very odd to me.

[pattonme]

The front springs are way too soft out of the gate. The rear shock spring is too soft too, BUT Yam pulled a fast one with the '16 FJ/XSR and threw in another 5 or 6mm of preload that you can't dial out. That's why the rear sag is giving a low number.

[gimbertt]

The front springs are way too soft out of the gate. The rear shock spring is too soft too, BUT Yam pulled a fast one with the '16 FJ/XSR and threw in another 5 or 6mm of preload that you can't dial out. That's why the rear sag is giving a low number.

Thank you pattonme, 
So seeing how the spring rate wont change if I add preload I should keep it on a low setting to get more sag....even though it still isn't quite enough?
 
I am still learning and setting up. My Tracer is new but it is a 16. It appears the 17's didn't get to Australia.