Which model Throttlemeister fits the FJ-09???

[Guest bruinfj09guy]

Does anyone know? Thanks in advance!

[wessie]

this is simply the best "throttle lock" device I've used. There are other, prettier versions of the same thing available
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121937032035?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Very easy to use and easy to take full control by simply rolling the throttle either way

[foxedupone]

http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/kaoko-throttle-lock-yamaha-fj-09-2015-2016
This is the one that screws into the weird Yamaha bar threads and works with a hand guard.

[sk8nsanta]

I think I might pick this up and a good, simple solution for the time being: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZVZFA/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp

[zachd]

I think I might pick this up and a good, simple solution for the time being: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZVZFA/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp

 
 
Yikes that is pricey. This is the one I have.....and much less expensive.
 
Go Cruise/2wheelride GCA1bk Universal Throttle Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ERXG4TM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_bywexb88SCC6Q

[jimf]

I think I might pick this up and a good, simple solution for the time being: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYZVZFA/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp

Yikes that is pricey. This is the one I have.....and much less expensive.
 
Go Cruise/2wheelride GCA1bk Universal Throttle Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ERXG4TM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_bywexb88SCC6Q
I've been using the Go Cruise unit for almost a year now.  It's very nicely made out of machined aluminum, I think quite fairly priced, and the tension adjuster is not only a nice size to work with gloves on but it also has a retainer spring that will keep the wheel from slipping and losing tension over time, no matter what kind of vibrations it's being subjected to.  You put it on, get the clamp tension the way you like it, and completely forget about it until you need it.  (Well, more or less.  But I'll get to that.) 
To set it, you twist the throttle and then push the clamp against the brake lever with your finger.  Easy!
 
So: Inexpensive yet well made, a simple and effective solution.
 
The thing I did not expect is that it would irritate the hell out of me.
 
With any kind of throttle lock you're going to have to tweak it regularly any time the incline in the road changes or else you'll keep slowing down or speeding up.  Even really small changes in incline can cause substantial velocity differences over a few minutes.  So, there will be little micro-adjustments to get the throttle set just right ... and a minute later another some more, and a minute later some more, etc.
 
A Throttlemeister, the likes of which I've had on most of my previous long-distance bikes, works by having a spring that pushes a friction ring against the throttle tube.  No matter which direction you twist the throttle the action is the same.  That makes those micro-adjustments really easy, just take a couple of fingers and tweak the throttle a bit in the proper direction.
 
With the clamp-type throttle locks you can only do that kind of easy tweak in the "slow down" direction.  For "speed up" you have to hold your finger on the clamp while you twist.  That makes it quite a lot harder to do really fine adjustments in that direction (at least for me).
 
You're thinking, "geez, dude, are you really bitching about how hard it is to hold your finger on the clamp while you twist the throttle?  seriously?  what are you, one of those OCD nutcases?"
 
I know you are, because that's what I thought too before I spent something like four hours straight puttering through Ottawa corn fields at a constant 75mph, constantly adjusting the thing because the road isn't truly flat, it slowly rises and falls, rises and falls, and you're either dropping speed and not getting up into the mountains you really want to be riding in fast enough, or gaining speed and gaining speed and wondering when the mounties are going to run out of the cornfields and put the beat-down on the fat-ass American.
 
Ok, my imagination might have wandered awfully close to hallucination in that period, but I'm serious, that was a boring section of road. I literally spent a half an hour on one leg sitting bolt upright on the bike, hands at my sides, leaning this way and that to keep it within the lines ... just to keep myself entertained. Even six hours in the CA central valley wasn't anywhere near that boring! At least there the scenery had some variety, not just acre after acre of corn.  You really want a throttle lock or cruise control or SOMETHING so you don't have to hold your wrist in the same position for several hours straight.
 
(No I have not ridden through any of the flyover US states where the terrain is even MORE boring, with the road literally disappearing over the curvature of the earth without ever showing any hint of a bend.  If it ever comes to it, I will find a way around those states that isn't so damn boring, even if I have to go all the way up to the Arctic circle or down to the Gulf Coast to do it.  As far as I'm concerned the only reason to ever be on a road like that is the ability to pin the throttle and run the bike flat out for all it's worth, but you're robbed of that simple pleasure by the likelihood that somewhere along that god-forsaken stretch of road there's some townie cop who's got nothing at all else to do but wait for bored-as-shet out-of-staters to scream by on their way to anywhere else as fast as they can possibly get there and write them a nice six-year insurance increase.)
 
Seriously, though, after a couple of hours straight making those adjustments you start thinking that the $30 you spent on that throttle lock really wasn't that great a deal, and wondering if Throttlemeister has started making throttle locks for the FJ-09 yet, even though the last time you bought one you thought $200 was kind of insane for what it was, but dammit it sure did work a lot better didn't it?  And that night you swear a lot because no, they still only make the FZ-09 unit and that's not going to work with the handguards, which for some bizarre reason you do actually like TYVM.
 
Anyway, the only halfway decent looking throttle lock for the FJ seems to be the Kaoko unit.  That seems decently made, but if the Throttlemeister seems expensive for what it is then the Kaoko is even moreso; there's not even a twist-release spring mechanism in there, it's just a glorified $130 screw.
 
Last year I felt kind of guilty for the amount of money I spent on the new bike and related doo-dads (screens, lights, grips, luggage, crash bars, engine guards, etc etc etc) so by the time I decided I really had to have something that wasn't that clamp thing I didn't want to drop more than a C-note on something that I don't use all the time.  Now that it's a new year with a new budget, and I'm pretty much just planning to buy new boots and the throttle lock this year (the previously planned top case is probably going to be a new guitar amp instead, that tube-type analog sound has really grown on me), I've gone and ordered it anyway.  It should show up next week and be on there in plenty of time for my first spring tour in mid-May.
 
Even if it doesn't work any better than the clamp lock at least it will be less obtrusive, because the OTHER thing that I never expected would ever drive me nuts is the fact that the clamp pushes my hand further away from the controls.  It's a stretch to that starter button, every time, and while this is admittedly also a rather a tiny irritation it is a tiny irritation again and again and again.  Over the course of the year I got to hate it.
 
Now, one other benefit of the clamp-type locks is that they're easy to remove and put back on, the work of maybe a minute. YMMV, but I have this weird psychological quirk where I never remember to put stuff like that on the bike before a tour and I will literally ride all day grumbling in my helmet that I ought to stop and put it on and yet never actually do that, even forgetting to do so at each food, fuel, and pee break.  If it's not on the bike already it might as well not exist.  (This is true of the GoPro too; once I get to that super twisty road I'M NOT STOPPING FOR ANYTHING and dammit now I'm working too many hours and why the hell didn't I bother to stop to put on the camera before that last run down Tracey Road so I could re-live that little moment of joy?)  So, the fact that you can easily take it off doesn't really count for a lot for me.
 
(Geez, it's 2:30am and I am seriously rambling.  Time to shove the cat off my legs and go to bed.)

[zachd]

I leave mine on all the time. No sense in taking it off.
 
Yes, the adjustment can get annoying sometimes, like you mention. But I deal with it simply due to the price I paid for it. I dont expect perfection from it.

[wessie]

I leave mine on all the time. No sense in taking it off. 
Yes, the adjustment can get annoying sometimes, like you mention. But I deal with it simply due to the price I paid for it. I dont expect perfection from it.

Exactly. 
The one I recommended is simple to operate and a gentle prod with your index finger is all that is needed. The main thing, it achieves what I want, in allowing me to release my grip on the throttle, aiding my ageing collagen

[Guest bruinfj09guy]

I considered the clamp style. The thing is I've pulled my handguards and am hoping I can find something to serve both as bar-ends and lock, i.e. Throttlemeister. They don't have a specific model, but I figured one or the other must fit in the threads of the handlebar and would work. Not sure though. I had a Throttlemeister on one of my FZ1s, but it was on when I bought it and I never took it off to see how it worked. Anyhow, if I figure it out I'll let you all know. If I wind up taking any long rides in the near future maybe I'll just go ahead with the clamp style, or tough it out with a Cramp Buster.

[jimf]

I considered the clamp style. The thing is I've pulled my handguards and am hoping I can find something to serve both as bar-ends and lock, i.e. Throttlemeister. They don't have a specific model, but I figured one or the other must fit in the threads of the handlebar and would work. 

I believe they have a fitment for the FZ-09, which would likely work on the FJ-09 if you've removed the handguards. 
It's been awhile since I installed one, but it seemed to me that they have a couple of difference sizes and include spacers for narrower bolts and washers to adjust the fit of the friction disk.  The Daytona unit was, IIRC, a little short in terms of the friction disk but I had no trouble locating washers locally.  As long as the Throttlemeister has the right diameter for the bars/throttle tube it is likely to be easy to adapt.
 
For that matter, given that most of the unit is a solid lump of metal, it probably wouldn't be that hard to take e.g. The FZ-09 unit and slice or grind off bits of it so it fits in the gap inside the handguard.  (Take that with a big lump of salt, though, last time I installed one I wasn't thinking of this kind of thing and I'm going completely from memory as to how much extra metal there was on the end.)
 
Back to the Go Cruise, all my meandering prose and grumping aside, at about $30 it is a hell of a buy.  It really is nicely made, about the best made I think you'll ever find for such a thing, and unless I'm droning for hours -- which I try very hard not to do -- it's just fine.  Mostly I just briefly lock the throttle so I can stretch out or use my right hand for something and there's no fiddling involved.
 
I gave some thought for trying to put some kind of contraption on the handguard that would trap the clamp in both directions as well as move it to the pinky end where it wouldn't interfere with the controls.  It would probably look bodged up, especially since there would have to be some kind of ersatz release mechanism, but I don't see any particular reason why it couldn't be done on the very cheap and work just as well as a much more expensive ThrottleMeister.
 
It was a pretty nice late night rambling grump, though, wasn't it? :-)

[Guest bruinfj09guy]

...stock cruise would be ideal. I know Yamaha knows how to do it. Lol.

[jimf]

...stock cruise would be ideal. I know Yamaha knows how to do it. Lol.

Yes.  In fact, the existing electronics know how to do it; they're the same as for the Super Tenere, as I recall.  The software inside may not be, it depends on whether or not they load new software for each application or simply reconfigure the software. 
Given the way the grips are plug-and-go, it's entirely possible that simply having the controls would activate the software.
 
This is one of those things where Yamaha could make some good money selling an upgrade package with the new control cluster and maybe a software upload.

[Guest bruinfj09guy]

Definitely. It is possible they may require some work on the ECU or other components, but I'm sure they could figure it out and put together a package for a few hundred, just like the heated grips. I actually suspected the 16s might have it, but I still wouldn't be surprised if it shows up in the next year or two. Maybe not, though. I don't think the FJ-09 is known quite as the distance runner the FJR and Super Tenere are. We'll see.
 
Edit: Then again, maybe not. Cruzin's people seem to have figured it out. Anyhow, I'm not so much after full on cruise; Throttlemeisters would just solve a couple of issues for me.

[jimf]

Today I fitted the Kaoko to an FJ-09 with Yamaha heated grips.  I took some photos so I thought I would share them in case others are looking at doing this.
 
First some explanation: The Kaoko really does not fit with the Yamaha heated grips installed.  The grips come with modified control hardware that moves the throttle body outboard by around 1cm to give enough space for the wiring inside the throttle cable block.  This causes two problems:
 
1) You can't screw the Kaoko all the way in, it locks up the throttle tube before it's tight; and
 
2) If you compensate for this the handguard won't fit (if you care).
 
Luckily both are easy to deal with.
 
The obvious way to fix the first problem is to insert a spacer between the bar and the Kaoko to push it outboard.  I considered about a half dozen different things for spacers, but almost everything I found either didn't fit around the bar-end threads on the Kaoko or was too big to fit inside the throttle tube and modification to make them fit would be a pain.  Here are a few of the things I looked at:
 

 
The solution I settled on was a length of copper pipe that is intended to be used to join lengths of household plumbing.  I found short lengths of this at my local hardware store for $0.50-0.99 (the cost difference is whether or not the pipe has detents in it to help center the pipes it's meant to join, and oddly the more expensive one DIDN'T have the detents).  I just walked down the row until I found one that fit over it, and bought a few just in case I screwed it up when I cut them down.
 
A small pipe cutter makes it really easy to get an accurate cut.  With some basic measurement and a little experimentation I found that 10mm was the perfect length.  9mm is too short, it's not possible to fully disengage the Kaoko, and 11mm is pushing the limit of the engagement range.
 
 

 

 

 
Obviously this means that you're going to have about half of the threads engaged versus Kaoko's original design.  Given that this isn't really a load-bearing junction and the Kaoko's steel core is pretty tough I don't see that this is a problem, but it might be that this makes the Kaoko more susceptible to crash or tipover damage (so, you know, don't do that :-).
 
This is the result:
 
 

 
The Kaoko instructions for the stock handgrips say that you have to stretch the handguard a bit to get it to fit, but with the unit pushed out 10mm there is no way this works.  You have to cut down the handguard to 5mm, about a 12mm reduction:
 

 
After that it fit just fine, but I didn't like the way the unit looked with the spanner flats showing.  I found some washers that fit pretty nicely:
 
 

 

 
The end result looks like this:
 
 

 

 
The final issue, which I unfortunately forgot to photograph, is that the stock handguard bolt and the sleeve it fits through are now too long by 10-12mm.  I just dug through my bolt box until I found an 8mm allen bolt that fit [update: It's an M8 1.25x60, and amazingly you can get the right bolt on Amazon].  While a more proper solution for the bolt sleeve/spacer would be to cut down the sleeve to fit, or to manufacture a new spacer, I chose to simply just leave it out.  My feeling is that the handguard plastic is pretty tough stuff and provides more than enough strength on its own.  [update: I picked up a steel spacer at the hardware store, but nothing they had was quite the right length.  I'm not sure if I will care enough to cut or grind it down, it's working well enough for me.]
 
It works like a charm, plenty of adjustment from allowing the throttle completely free movement to locking it up good and tight, and everything in between.
 
The Kaoko's threaded engagement, as opposed to the spring used in the Throttlemeister, means that you might have to turn it quite a lot to start engagement.  The throttlemeister is only ever a partial twist.  That's less convenient, but the ability to completely control the friction level is I think a big advantage.  I've had Throttlemeister units where the spring wasn't strong enough to keep the throttle from slipping and that's just not a problem with the Kaoko.
 
Hope this helps someone out.