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  • 1 month later...
Shell Rotella T Synthetic. 5-40 about 22.00 USD per gallon. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-Full-Synthetic-5W-40-Motor-Oil-1-gal./102646780?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3739&adid=22222222227055632279&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=159238221490&wl4=pla-268486119081&wl5=9029578&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=102646780&wl13=3739&veh=sem
 
Works and works well.
Run a good filter with it.
 
Purolator PL14610 works great. If you really want the best however, the BOSS is PLB14610, same filter size, but with 100% synthetic depth filtration media that will catch all the debris your bike can throw at it for 15,000 miles claimed. (And I believe it, it's a depth filter, so they really don't clog up, they just continue to filter as the larger debris builds up on the outer layer, and the deeper you get into the media, the smaller the debris is, down to a much smaller size, measured in microns.)
 
You really want to stop stuff that's larger than 10 microns.
 
Most paper filters don't do that very well. They do great with 20 or 30 microns. But once you plug the hole in the paper, it's plugged, so you have to change the filter when all the holes in the paper are plugged up. (And the holes have to be large enough to flow oil, so the 10 micron stuff just goes right past the larger holes, and wears on your engine.)
 
With depth filtration, you catch not only the really large stuff you can see, but the smaller stuff down to 10 microns or better on most depth filters, including the PL and PLB that I listed.
 
When I run out of my supply/stash of PL14610 filters, I'm only going to buy PLB14610 filters going forward. Why not, they are only a few bucks more, and they filter all the oil, all the time due to the design of the media. (But they do have a bypass valve, just in case, but you should never have it bypass with this filter, on this bike, unless you did not change the oil in the life of the motorcycle...)
 
Ah, the smell of oil threads in the morning! :)

 
 
Been using rotella T on all my bikes since 2005. I have 50k hard miles on my zx10R street/track bike and 13k on my FJ, I never use motorcycle oil.
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  • 8 months later...
I saw an oil thread to resurrect, so I said, what the heck it's Monday....let's mess up the week!
 
You guys put Rotella T as in the same stuff I put in the Duramax in your bikes? That would be awesome.
 
The PO said he changed it with yamalube 10-40 conventional....thinking I want to change it before I put any more miles on...thoughts? Is everyone using Yamaha filters?
 
Thanks
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I saw an oil thread to resurrect, so I said, what the heck it's Monday....let's mess up the week!  
You guys put Rotella T as in the same stuff I put in the Duramax in your bikes? That would be awesome.
 
The PO said he changed it with yamalube 10-40 conventional....thinking I want to change it before I put any more miles on...thoughts? Is everyone using Yamaha filters?
 
Thanks
Yes, the same Rotella T you use in a diesel, but make sure you have the correct viscosity.  When I changed the oil on my bikes and lawn mower over the winter, I looked at what oil specs the manufacturer required, and Rotella T met their standards.
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How many miles you got now? I think oil is very personal. I use synthetic for peace of mind and because science. That said, conventional is just fine if you change it when you're supposed to. Someone on the forum here has 100k miles w/ routine dealer oil changes which I'm almost positive is Yamalube conventional.
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I have approx 1500 miles. PO changed the oil at 600...gave me the receipt for oil and filter, but dang I wish he had forked up for the dealer on round 1 just so I was garunteed coverage. It was Yama conventional. So anyways, I want to change it before I start commuting it 70 miles round trip every day, and figured I would see what's good for the yammy. I used to use conventional with some additive in my 72 XS650 because syn was to slippery. .that said, my knowledge base for bikes is pretty short. I'll probably just go with yamalube synthetic unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise.
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Go another 1,500 with dino oil. Then switch to synthetic @ 3,000 to 3,500 with K&N #204 filter. Castrol Power 10 x 40w full synthetic is what my oil cabinet is full of. Run the crap out of my FJ in 50-105 temps. Don't ride below 50 cause I'm spoiled.
Everyday's a good day when your able to ride
 
15 FJ-09 - 2WDW ECU flash, Givi SV201, Nelson Rigg tail bag, OES sliders, Koubalink extenders, Ermax Sport, Vista Cruise, OEM seat mod, (smiles)
07 Honda ST1300A (sold)
06 Kawi KLR650 - Big Gun full exhaust, Corbin, Givi, PMR racks, carb mod (keeper)
97 Honda VFR750 - Traxxion Dynamics, Penske, Givi 3 piece, carbon exhaust (keeper?)
20+ years of snowmobiles
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I ran T6 5W-40 in previous motorcycles.. But I found I like Mobil 1 5W-40 a lot more. The bike *feels* like it revs faster. On my old Husky supermoto(s) (I had 2), both of them wheelied much easier with the Mobil 1 oil in them. The guy below does great videos. He also did one regarding the testing and development of Mobil 1's 20,000 mile annual oil. I'm hugely impressed how Mobil 1 develops their oil.
 
tYkg0oDUXs8

'15 FJ09

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I will never ruin my engine because of what kind of oil I use. I put 143,000 miles on my first FJR and in the end was using Rotella T6 5-40 mixed with Rotella 15-40, 50/50. I usually change filter with every oil change. Only time I don't do that is if I just changed the oil 3-4 weeks earlier and am doing it again in a short period of time. Change the oil before winter and new filter and oil in the spring. I use a schedule of 5,000 miles between changes, or at the end of a trip of over 5K, so once in while it may be 7-8K on the same oil. If that is the case, I will use just the T6 5-40 full synthetic oil prior to the extended ride.  Hardly anyone uses up their engine because of bad oil or not changing it often enough.  Never heard of a case of the engine going bad because of the oil.  I have noticed that the FJR's oil will look cleaner than the FJ's oil for the same period of time.  My current FJR has around 80,000, but the first 8K was by someone else, so I don't know how it was broken in.  I feel most of the time that I am giving good oil to the recycler every time I change it.  

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  114,000 m (Replaced engine at 106K)

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All good points taken. For those of you who use a motorcycle synthetic oil, where is your preferred spot to buy from?
I find Walmart has a good selection and prices to match
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