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Clear fault codes on 2017?


anubi

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Does anyone know how to clear fault codes on a 2017 FJ-09?
 
I just had a bad experience I'm hoping to not have to repeat.  I performed the 600 mile service, including performing the throttle body sync myself.  FYI, the middle throttle body was just slightly out, took about 1/8th turn or less to get it perfect.  At the same time I installed the OEM heated grips.
 
I put everything back together and had a check engine light.  Rode it about a mile or so and the light stayed on.  I grumbled and complained a lot to myself as I stripped the bike all down again to double check over all the connections I could think of or find.  The light was still on.  I searched the internet for common faults, checked those, searched for ways to clear codes and could not find anything for 2017.  Diagnostic mode appears to be locked out.
 
With even more grumbling I begrudgingly took it into the shop where I was informed it would be a minimum 1hr charge ($115) to plug in the computer and read the code and it would be 7-10 days before they could get to it.  An excellent way to re-affirm why I do all the maintenance myself.  On a positive note they had a cancellation and got to my bike the next day.  
 
The dealer informed me, "It had a code for IAP disconnect while key on / engine stall. We cleared the code and everything is fine now.  That'll just be $115.  And we strongly recommend we have the tech redo the throttle body sync."  Me, "How much is that?" Dealer, "$210".  Me, "No".
 
Thanks a lot Yamaha, great way to drive dealer service business while really pissing off customers.
 
So my original question, anyone know how to clear codes?  I've read people speculating about disconnecting the battery and shorting the wires, does anyone know for sure if that really works?
 
 
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The 2nd gen FJ-09 (2017+) lost the dash board diagnostic feature...must have been the trade off to get 2 more modes of TC...
 
Edit: the 2017+ bikes are gonna take a bit of time to fully understand... Biggest difference so far is ECU reflashing( I bet FlashTune has a few 2017 ECUs on the bench to crack open for the ECU coding) and as for the dash board diagnostic/adjustment features it seems like the 2017 owners are a bit outta luck till someone finds a solution...
2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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Try this:
 
https://fj-09.org/thread/4376/clear-codes
 
Not calling you out, and lots of folks just ask the question, but if you click on Search at the top, right under the red FJ-09 logo, you can type in your search parameter and find all kinds if neat stuff.........
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I'm struggling with the same thing. Changed my oil and got a check engine light. It seems on the 2017 model you can no longer enter diagnostic mode and clear it yourself. Now I'm stuck having to deal with my local dealer and their terrible service.
 
Did they explain what that code meant? I wonder if mine is the same reason.
 
I'll be honest, if it happens again I'm just going to put black tape over the light haha.
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The dealer informed me, "It had a code for IAP disconnect while key on / engine stall. We cleared the code and everything is fine now.
So, what does that mean in plain English?  Was it something unplugged?  something set wrong? a result of the TB sync?  Hopefully this can keep others from going through the same ordeal. 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Try this: 
https://fj-09.org/thread/4376/clear-codes
 
Not calling you out, and lots of folks just ask the question, but if you click on Search at the top, right under the red FJ-09 logo, you can type in your search parameter and find all kinds if neat stuff.........
Thanks for trying to be helpful David, but I did use the search, I did read that thread, and it is not helpful.  As I said in my OP, and other have pointed out, the diagnostic mode has been removed from 2017 bikes.
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The dealer informed me, "It had a code for IAP disconnect while key on / engine stall. We cleared the code and everything is fine now.
So, what does that mean in plain English?  Was it something unplugged?  something set wrong? a result of the TB sync?  Hopefully this can keep others from going through the same ordeal.
I believe IAP means Injection Actuation Pressure sensor.  Which is probably the big connector blocking access to the vacuum port I needed to connect my gauges too to perform the throttle body sync.  I unplugged the connector, connected my vacuum tube, then plugged the connector back in.  Of course the engine was not running when I did this.  However it's possible the key was on, I wouldn't have intentionally done it with the key on, but I may have overlooked that, I really don't know.  I'm assuming here, but apparently that caused a fault code to get set which does not automatically clear once the fault condition has gone away. 
That's why it would be so helpful for a way to clear codes.  If it's an ongoing problem the light would come back on.  
 
 
Some cars I've worked on you could clear the codes by just disconnecting the battery then hitting the brakes.  The current draw from trying to light up the brake lights would completely drain any residual charge in the system.  Depending on the electrical design it could accomplish the same thing as shorting the disconnected battery leads together, but with less risk.  Could also try disconnecting the battery and just letting it sit overnight disconnected.  I'll definitely try that if I run into a situation like this again.  
 
 
 
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It seems to me that on these new bikes you have to disconnect the battery before disconnecting any other electrical connection for any reason or you risk having an engine light that you cannot clear. I'm hopeful that someone will come up with an OBD2 type device which will allow you to communicate with the ECU to clear codes. But for now, 2017+ owners appear to be out of luck.
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