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Brake bleed screw


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I was bleeding my brakes today for the first time and notice the left side bleed screw sticks out more then the right. The right is flush and the left shows 2 threads. Does anyone else have the same thing?
 
My brakes work better then before but alittle concern how many threads show on the bleed screw.20170627_175524.jpg
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I was bleeding my brakes today for the first time and notice the left side bleed screw sticks out more then the right. The right is flush and the left shows 2 threads. Does anyone else have the same thing?
The two front bleed screws differ more than that. I was able to use a vacuum pump to bleed one side (clutch side), but not the other. The bleed screw on the throttle side passes air if you try to use a vacuum pump to bleed. I had to use the old-fashioned method on that side.

2015 red FJ-09: Cal Sci screen, Sargent seat, ECU flash, slider combo, cruise, Rizoma bars, Matts forks, JRi shock, slipper clutch

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The front left caliper bleeder screw is weird, almost like it has a spring-loaded ball check valve in it like a "SpeedBleeder". You can take the left front caliper bleeder screw out and not have brake fluid leak out, which may be due to the effect of the ABS system. Late last year it seemed like the front rotors were "warped" (often actually caused by glazed brake pads or hard spots on the rotors) and that the pads were consequently being knocked back and the pistons in turn were being pushed back in their cylinders, as it took a pump or two to get braking effect. I then checked rotor run-out both laterally and radially and they were well within spec. So then I figured air somehow got in the front brake system which was causing the front brake lever to go soft and require a lever pump to get pressure so I bled the system, and the problem then went away. I put yellow natural gas Teflon tape on the left bleeder screw but still had an issue with my vacuum bleeder when I flushed and bled the front (and rear) system(s) when I later installed Vesrah RJL front brake pads but I can't remember which side was still sucking air though I see no Teflon tape on the right front bleed screw; so I presume it is the still the left or it could be the right based on what you guys have said but then why did I not put tape on the right bleeder screw?
 
Try wrapping a couple of turns of yellow Teflon tape pre-stretched so it's thin on both side and let us know if the right still sucks air.
 
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  • 2 weeks later...
Has anyone used the Motion Pro Mini Bleeders? 
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0529
Neat tool... but I don't see much point if you already have box end wrench in the required size... 10mm in the rear, and 8mm in the front I recall. This tool will do only the rear.
Correct, would need the 8mm & 10mm tools. With multiple bikes, thinking this would be a better way to go than installing Speed Bleeders in several calipers. The Mini Bleeder works similar to the Speed Bleeders-no need to open & close bleed screws to exchange the fluid.
 
 
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Still debating on the mini bleeder tools or to go with Speed Bleeders.
 
For those who have used Speed Bleeders, is it worth the extra money for the stainless steel version?
 
Does the thread sealant seem to last quite a while before the need to re-apply?
 
I'm still leaning towards trying the M-P Mini Bleeders as I can use them on a several bikes.
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