greyghost38405 Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 I’m about to install the Partshark kit in my 2015 FJ-09. Comparing the 2017 FJ-09 parts fiche with the 2015, and recognizing the additional parts to be installed from the Partshark kit, I have compiled a stack order as below.Could someone who has plied these waters before confirm my stack order assessment and, if it looks OK, answer my remaining question? In order, from the inside out, (using 2017 parts fiche reference numbers), I get: 13 4B1-16324-00-00 from PartShark kit 12 1TD-16383-00-00 from PartShark kit 5 B90-16331-00-00 from PartShark kit 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 6 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 14 5VY-16325-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #5) 4 STA-16321-00-00 re-use from 2015 clutch (2015 #4) 15[span] [/span]4B1-16324-00-00 (T1.6) [span] [/span][span] [/span]5VY-16325-00-00 (T2.0) [span] [/span][span] [/span]4B1-16325-00-00 (T2.3) 5 B90-16331-00-00 from PartShark kit 7 1TD-16324-00-00 from PartShark kit 5 B90-16331-00-00 from PartShark kit (installed offset) My question is: The parts fiche for #15 shows 3 possible part numbers, listed above. Of these part numbers, the only part I have available to re-use is a (2015 #4 or 2017 #6) 5VY-16325-00-00, at thickness 2.0. Can I assume that this is the correct part to re-install in the stack at this location? Thanks and Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member 2and3cylinders Posted July 17, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted July 17, 2018 Yes but soak the friction plates and them tamp them dry before measuring each friction and drive plate at 120 degrees three times to derive total pack thickness. I bought the 2.2 mm plate just in caseso I could finish without having to wait if it was needed. I ended up not requiring it. Grease the center throw out thingy as it is a pain to keep centered when installing the pressure plate. Great mod with adds more controlibility and enhaces safety. This along with brake pads and lines, a 09~14 R1 front brake master cylinder, a Sargent saddle, lower bar and different wind screens for the 3 seasons make this bike along with the ECU flash! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyghost38405 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Share Posted July 20, 2018 Well, the install seemed to go well. All back together, clutch actuator lever in the right spot (it seems). However, I now have a situation where there is insufficient cable travel to completely disengage the clutch. I can move the lever on the spindle to different positions, adjust the clutch cable accordingly but, no matter which combination of lever locations (even 90 degrees to the cable at first engagement) and cable adjustments I come up with, I cannot get the clutch to completely disengage. Any ideas on what to check next? Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Just to clarify- by the lever in the correct position, are you referring to the clutch lever on the handle bars? Or on the Rh crankcase? First, you should have 10-15mm freeplay as measured at the end of the clutch lever before the cable begins to be pulled. Next, the dot on the lever where it attaches to the spindle on the engine case should (roughly) line up with the mark on the clutch cover. If those 2 items are adjusted correctly, and the clutch won’t disengage - you’ll need to take the clutch back apart because something else isn’t correct. Sorry for the news, -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerdawg Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 I can't see the full details of the image but was there two inner rings on the inside of the clutch basket with one ring labeled "outside"? That ring has a bend to it and the outside needs to point outward in the basket. I had one on my FJR but not sure on the fj. I'd imagine if there is one it would cause a problem like you're facing if installed backwards. 2019 Yamaha Tracer 900 GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyghost38405 Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Thanks for your feedback. I will take the clutch apart and see if there is anything obvious. If nothing jumps out out at me, I will remove the current (slipper) stack and measure the thickness. I will reassemble the original (stock FJ-09) stack, measure it, and compare thicknesses. I'll let you know what I find and, hopefully, what steps I take to make it work. Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyghost38405 Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Well... I removed the stack, measured it, carefully replaced the bits. The stack measures 43mm, which is within spec. The second metal part faces 'out' as mentioned above. Apart from one of the new friction plates possibly in the wrong location, (now corrected), all looks OK. Spline is connected, actuator arm lined up with the dot. After reassembly, I have the same issue I had before - the clutch does not completely disengage. Any other ideas before I take it in to my local shop? Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 If your stack width meets the spec in the book, only other items I can think of off the top of my head causing this issue would be some sort of assy error. Things to check: -That the inner friction plate which is “narrow” to allow for the judder spring and washer to fit into, is not present/in the wrong spot. Sounds like you checked washer/spring orientation should be: (clutch cover). \\| (Primary inner gear) where this represents the view of judder spring and washer from the outer circumference on top of the \\| and —————- Inner is below this crude diagram. -the outer most friction plate wasn’t rotated one slot cw before being installed. -missing a washer or incorrect assy in the release bearing/pressure plate area. -Pressure plate not fitted into the clutch basket correctly. It MUST be mated so that the friction and clutch plates can slide freely in that area. For example, the slots of the inner part of the plate must be even with the slots of the clutch basket. This step is tricky to do perform correctly, and then keeping it all together while installing the 3 clutch springs (and ramps IIRC). Difficult to analyze without seeing exactly what you are seeing. Good luck, let us know what you find. As a last check before putting the cover back on, see if the complete clutch pack assy is tight between the pressure plate and clutch inner hub. The clutch springs should force everything tightly together. If you take a pick on opposite sides and gently try to move the clutch pack toward and away from the inside of the engine - and it moves back and forth - you definitely have an assy problem. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 Just thought of one more thing: is your clutch cable stock? Several members have had “stretching” issues right before they snap, which would cause the symptoms you describe. Data point: over 27k miles on my 2015, stock clutch cable. -S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerdawg Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 Did you change the clutch boss and pressure plate assy + bolts/springs for the slipper? They are separate part numbers from 2015 to 2017 but I don't see them listed above. The boss for example is different between the years. 2017 - B90-16371-00-00 2015 - 1RC-16371-00-00 On the FJR they have to be changed. Here is everything on the FJR needing to be replaced to upgrade to a slipper clutch. They are circled in red. http://twowheelobsession.com/2016/04/28/upgrade-2015-prior-fjr1300-2016-slipper/ 2019 Yamaha Tracer 900 GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyghost38405 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Share Posted July 29, 2018 Gerdawg, Yes, these other parts were also part of the kit. My concern was getting the stack order correct, hence my original post. Cheers, Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerdawg Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Got you. I didn't know if this was an actual "after market kit" designed for slipper or just stuff people were putting together. On the FJR there isn't a kit someone just figured out all the pieces and bought them separately. Sucks that you can't get it to work. Hope you get back to riding soon. 2019 Yamaha Tracer 900 GT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reiny Posted August 31, 2018 Share Posted August 31, 2018 I can't see the full details of the image but was there two inner rings on the inside of the clutch basket with one ring labeled "outside"? That ring has a bend to it and the outside needs to point outward in the basket. I had one on my FJR but not sure on the fj. I'd imagine if there is one it would cause a problem like you're facing if installed backwards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greyghost38405 Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 I discovered I had the spring plate installed backwards. Otherwise all else was OK. All well now. Works a treat. Thanks for all your ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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