jonno12345 Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Unfortunately I don't know of anyone else with a mt-09 tracer to establish if this is just my bike, or something everyone has, but I am finding my gear changes a bit notchy at times. I can't quite work out whether it's much different when warmed up, but I'm veering towards slightly worse. Most notably between 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5, both up and down shifts can be an issue. It's almost like halfway between the gear shift, it catches on something. It doesn't grind or anything, but it doesn't smoothly engage, and so many people talk about how smooth they find their shifts. 2015 Tracer 900 (UK, same as the FJ-09). I've tried tightening the chain as much as I'm comfortable with. Using Motul 5000 semi-synthetic oil, the revised clutch cable (fitted myself and I don't think there's much I could have got wrong with this..?). Doesn't seem to matter how quick or pronounced I make my shifts, how long I hold the clutch in, whether I try and give the engine some revs before shifting or not. And it's not every shift, but probably about 10-20% of them. Any ideas? Some adjustment I've missed? A dodgy box? Or just something they do that I can't find anybody talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 I find the shifts smoother with the chain set much more loose than the manual calls for.. 1-1.5 inches of free play. Many people have described the FJ/MT-09's gearbox as "clunky" doesn't bother me though. I have a '15 as well. '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonno12345 Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 I find the shifts smoother with the chain set much more loose than the manual calls for.. 1-1.5 inches of free play. Many people have described the FJ/MT-09's gearbox as "clunky" doesn't bother me though. I have a '15 as well. Is that free play on the centre stand or whilst on the bike? I've definitely gone looser than the manual says, that sounds insanely tight at 0.2" to 0.6". I guess it's not a serious problem, if it's normal, I just want to be sure mine isn't a sign of an issue. Sometimes I get two clicks in a single gear change (especially between 2-3), almost like it clicks through a 'neutral' there. It always goes in, never jumps out, just doesn't feel very positive at times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 On centerstand. Try adjusting the shifter lever.. a lot of complaints about shifting issues have been solved by adjusting the lever to allow full range of motion of the lever. Many people were unknowingly keeping pressure on the lever between shifts thus not allowing the lever to "reset" between shifts. Usually related to missing shifts but it would be an easy place to start. Along with verifying that the clutch cable has the appropriate slack on both ends. '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonno12345 Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 On centerstand. Try adjusting the shifter lever.. a lot of complaints about shifting issues have been solved by adjusting the lever to allow full range of motion of the lever. Many people were unknowingly keeping pressure on the lever between shifts thus not allowing the lever to "reset" between shifts. Usually related to missing shifts but it would be an easy place to start. Along with verifying that the clutch cable has the appropriate slack on both ends. I'll give it a go, but I'm confident I'm using the lever to max travel. I've tried doing shifts quicker, slower, completely removing my foot from the peg each time, pivoting my foot, pulling it up and stamping down... It's just like it catches something in between the gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonno12345 Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 ...also check that the clutch actuator arm is correctly seated on the splined shaft, i.e. when the clutch is at rest, the dot on the arm is aligned with arrow on clutch cover. One tooth out and you could have disengagement issues.Checked this one today, the dot is exactly on the arrow, so not that one I don't think. I'll double check the lever free play, but it feels like the clutch engages and disengages correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 hmmm... it may have an issue with the shift assembly internally rather than externally... the shift arm that roates the drum could be broken... clutch plate stack up may be outta spec, notches on the clutch plate basket... it sounds like you have done all the things you could do externally by trying different shift speeds, removing foot after each shift, lubing pivot points, etc which leads me to think the problem may be internally... 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 There was also a shifter shaft recall on some of the early models of FJ, MT, etc.... Have you verified that your recall has been completed or that it is outside of the range of affected VINs. '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonno12345 Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 Give the 7100 a try. I noticed smoother shifts coming from the 5100. What weight are you using? Experiences vary on this subject, but something to try. Annoyingly there was a deal on the oil when I bought it so I bought enough for the next service too... That said, I might just try a different one to see if it helps. It's 10w40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonno12345 Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 hmmm... it may have an issue with the shift assembly internally rather than externally... the shift arm that roates the drum could be broken... clutch plate stack up may be outta spec, notches on the clutch plate basket... it sounds like you have done all the things you could do externally by trying different shift speeds, removing foot after each shift, lubing pivot points, etc which leads me to think the problem may be internally... That's the fear..! I hoped a few people would come back and say 'they are all like that, don't worry' but that's not been quite so forthcoming. Maybe I'll take it to a shop where they have more experience in it and see what they think. It shifts successfully, it's just my concern that somethings damaged (or being damaged) and might shorten the life of something serious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonno12345 Posted October 27, 2018 Author Share Posted October 27, 2018 There was also a shifter shaft recall on some of the early models of FJ, MT, etc.... Have you verified that your recall has been completed or that it is outside of the range of affected VINs.Just took a look, seems to be outside of the range of my VIN. Shame it's not that easy ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted October 28, 2018 Share Posted October 28, 2018 Jonno - What was your last bike? The reason that I ask is the shifting on this bike is a bit "notchy" out of the box. You may want to switch with a buddy, or have someone else who has experience with this CP3 engine to see what they think - and whether it's typical or not. Make sure your are setting clutch lever freeplay with the bike COLD and bars pointed straight ahead. Should be 10-15mm of lever freeplay as measured at the end of the lever. Or, the width of a US quarter between the lever and the perch (near where the bolt for the mirror is) when it is pulled lightly. Some earlier models have also been known to eat clutch cables prematurely. If yours is stretching on it's way to a failure, then it also would allow the freeplay to change frequently and require adjusting all the time as the cable stretches just before it snaps. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonno12345 Posted October 28, 2018 Author Share Posted October 28, 2018 Jonno - What was your last bike? The reason that I ask is the shifting on this bike is a bit "notchy" out of the box. You may want to switch with a buddy, or have someone else who has experience with this CP3 engine to see what they think - and whether it's typical or not. Make sure your are setting clutch lever freeplay with the bike COLD and bars pointed straight ahead. Should be 10-15mm of lever freeplay as measured at the end of the lever. Or, the width of a US quarter between the lever and the perch (near where the bolt for the mirror is) when it is pulled lightly. Some earlier models have also been known to eat clutch cables prematurely. If yours is stretching on it's way to a failure, then it also would allow the freeplay to change frequently and require adjusting all the time as the cable stretches just before it snaps. -Skip Had a FJR1300. Can't remember feeling it was that bad really. You're right, I need to try another to tell, but I haven't really seen many of these bikes around. If I try a later one it will have the assist and slipper clutch so probably not a great test either. I suspect it isn't really a major fault with mine, as said, it runs fine it's just not smooth. I'll double check the clutch cable that way, I'm using the latest revision but will have a go, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted October 29, 2018 Share Posted October 29, 2018 Ah. FJR’s have a much smoother drivetrain and shift feel. Makes sense now that I know what you are used to. Good luck. -S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikexsr900 Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Hi, my 2016 XSR900 seems to have a rather notchy gear change too. I have tightened the chain to within spec and that seems to have made it worse, chain is kept well lubed. The clutch cable is lubed and correctly adjusted. Recently returned to riding. In the 1980s could adjust chains so bike wouldn't even "snick" when put into 1st gear. I have tried quicker, slower, preloading the shift lever before using the clutch, ensuring the throttle is fully closed. It is smooth under gentle acceleration through the gears in town, some shifts i hear and feel nothing notchy it can be that smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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