Removing lowering links going back to stock. Difficulty?

[morkys]

When I had the FJ09 in for some service or other I had the shop install the Yamaha lowering links and lower the forks.

When people install the lowering links I hear advice they have to compress the suspension. When pulling the lowering links and replacing them with the stock links, is it an easier job or about the same?

 

Two specification questions.

 

1) Torque value for link bolts?

2) At what height should I lower the forks/raise the triple clamps?

[Tripletrouble]

I found it easier to put bike on centre stand, and loosen rear exhaust, removed rear wheel(easier than it sounds)  then you can drop swing arm and access lower link bolt a little easier. I didn't have to compress anything with this method. I tightened back fork eye to 44nm and dog bones to 55nm. I have forks so cap is just a fraction proud of top triple trees. Have fun ! 

Edited April 9, 2019 by Tripletrouble

[justplainbill]

One  slight difference with Tripletrouble's  procedure, is that I  set my forks the same distance (9mm)  above the top triple tree as the dog bones  dropped the rear of the bike; just to keep the geometry the same at both ends.  

[Tripletrouble]

Bill. The op is going back to standard, taking off lowering bones. So his forks should be set flush as the rear ride height will be increased. 

Edited May 2, 2019 by Tripletrouble

[skipperT]

Triple - true, but a well-dispensed piece of advice on this forum to improve handling and head shake on early Models with stock suspension is to slide the forks up in the triple tree 5-10mm or so. 

Thats what he is referring to.... you can try it also if you like. 

-Skip

[betoney]

19 hours ago, Tripletrouble said:

Bill. The op is going back to standard, taking off lowering bones. So his forks should be set flush as the rear ride height will be increased. 

Just like @skipperT mentioned, the fork height is adjustable in the triple trees, you can adjust the steering geometry to suit your preference.  A lot of riders choose to raise the fork in the triple clamp slightly (5-10mm) to get a slight forward weight bias, most aftermarket shocks also have a ride height adjuster to accomplish the same thing, I believe my Penske has up to 10 or 12mm adjustability.

[vancuy]

On 5/2/2019 at 12:28 AM, justplainbill said:

One  slight difference with Tripletrouble's  procedure, is that I  set my forks the same distance (9mm)  above the top triple tree as the dog bones  dropped the rear of the bike; just to keep the geometry the same at both ends.  

Any issues with centre stand hitting the muffler after lowering?