skipperT

Anytime 2and3, I broke my hip on Monday so I’ll be riding couch for awhile healing. Happy to help. That all looks good. I may actually have asked you for data from one of the wrong channels, I was going from memory while in the hospital - but your pics tell it all. So when you took the pic of channel 62 data (above) was that before and after the code clear? if so that’s what I would expect. Meaning, 01 reflects an occurance of 1 code happening, period. Remember our DIAG systems aren’t sophisticated enough to know if the same fault has occurred more than once. then data from your pic of 62 shows fault code 59 as you detailed. so everything you’ve written makes sense, yes I think? in summary, if everything is cleared - Channel 61 and 62 will both read 00 if all are cleared. Then go ride it again and see what may or may not trip. IMHO you’ve got an intermittent dirty connection causing your issue. -Skip

Ok, good stuff, Draco. -S

Report back with what is displayed when you select DIAG channel 60 and 61 -S

How are your cruise wires spliced in @draco_1967 ? I only ask because some of those connections that are supposed to be weather proof might not actually be. And all it would take would be a bit of corrosion in the TPS/APS wire tap to cause the symptom you describe. HTH, -Skip T

No those pics don’t reflect a DTC. check in channel 60 and 61 If you clear the codes and the code count is still 01, that means you have an ACTIVE DTC as opposed to a historic DTC. -Skip

Yes best of luck with it. btw - based on your view in that picture, your sprocket nut doesn’t look staked. Make sure it is! -S

Lolzzzz, Piotrek and none taken. Funny thing is, most techs make more time on things like services and valve adjustments and lose their shirt on engine jobs. The work just takes 2-3x as long as “gravy work”. Motors are very satisfying to tear down and repair, but aren’t encountered as often especially if working on Yamaha. -skip

Follow their advice and replace the TPS on the throttle body end. It’s more common for that one to be the culprit of the symptoms you are describing, and it fits with the code you have tripped and had cleared, but sets again intermittently. -Skip

You’ll need to replace the crankcases - which will also mean all new plane bearings, rod bearings, rod bolts (1 time use), head bolts, all the gaskets, orings etc, and because the pistons are installed in the upper crankcase you may as well put a new set of rings on it to freshen the engine up. Yamaha doesn’t sell sets of things, so it’ll be piece by piece your other options are JB or cold weld (which isn’t recommended will continue to leak) or find a motor out of a wrecked bike. That will probably be the cheapest. sorry man. -Skip

Usually this happens when the battery connections are hooked up backwards or from a voltage surge such as from a jumpstart/batt pack or arching ie from grounding the pos batt terminal accidentally (screwdriver touching ground. All possibilities and there’s more I’m forgetting. @johnmark101 gave you good advice, get the codes cleared before worrying about what may or may not be going on any further. -Skip

Yes it’s different than the 2015 book you found. Browse around here for a Slipper clutch upgrade thread where theres a bunch of back and forth about re-assembly and where the different thickness clutch plates go, and measuring the stack height. i’d search and post a link here but on my mobile device this am. -S

Oh sorry, factory service manual. There’s a specific order to all those plates fitting together on the slipper-clutch assys, gotta follow the book. -s

Glad you like the bike. Next time you bring it in, ask them to re-program the quickshifter settings. This requires XC_2 so it’s not something you can do yourself, but it may smooth out some of your shifts. The 1390 is a beast. It also adds fine control over suspension settings depending on mode selected and purchased acc. packs. The new shift-cam tech in the cylinder head smooths out some of your complaints WRT around town low rpm cruising. -skip

Sorry to hear that. Good luck with whatever you decide. -Skip

I’m not sure happened to cause that plate to bend like that (probably improper assy) but it’s pooched. All the clutch plates should be flat, and no “blue-ing” or discoloration should be present on any of them it’s recommended to replace all the plates if one is damaged. Are you using a FSM? If not, you need to get one. -Skip