Brentinpdx

I have a question about the Skyjack and the FJ09. It says that it uses the swing arm points on the bike. On my bike I checked it out and there is a bolt head in the way, the access is D shaped and nut on the other side. Does the sky jack have adapters that work on this? I don't want to order one and send it back as I can't use it.

Wax is made for paint not for visors. Use a product made for the visor plastic. RainX or Plexus work very well. NO paper towels should be used either. They can scratch the visor . Use a wet wash rag or microfiber cloth to clean it.

My FJ came with Shad SH36 side cases from the original owner. A tad spendy , however they are roomy enough and have the liner bags inside. I've seen some on Evilbay a few times. They go fast.

I've got a pair of Moto Centric soft side bags and a tail bag I don't need anymore. They are not brand new. They have several thousand miles on them. They are in good shape . rain covers are water proof. It looks like I need to post this in the classifieds. I don't qualify yet. Admin - delete if not appropriate.

I went and looked at the service manual for my FJ. I wonder if you are reading it right. The diagram shows the measurement to be 5-15 mm of deflection from center. Not from the bottom of the swing arm. My FZ1 was to measure from the bottom of the swing arm, a buddies Ninja is the same. The FJ is from the chain in a relaxed position with the swing arm in its lowest position on the center stand. The instructions in the manual say that it should never be more than 25mm.

A local seat builder once said to me when I was looking for a more comfortable seat for my Kawasaki Ninja 500. He said-If you lack the natural padding in your own seat. I can not build you a seat to make up for it. That said I bought my FZ1 with a Corbin and it was fantastic. Firm yes. Wide and holds your butt in place . Anyone who rode my bike said that the seat was great. I found it to be comfortable enough to put 500 miles in day and never get sore. My knees complained before my butt ever did.

Batteries whether AGM, Gell or standard lead acid do not like to be on a tender all the time. Charge them once per month or less. These types of batteries will sulfate over time. Being on a trickle charge will accelerate that process. AGM batteries seem to last a bit longer than Gell. Some other things to make sure you are using a standard battery for your motorcycle and not a deep cycle. Deep cycles are designed to go low , however do not do well in a standard charge system like a motorcycle or car. This constant charge cycle will kill a deep cycle quickly. I was out on the fence on lithium batteries when looking for a battery for my Fj. There are a lot out there and many do not have the circuit that prevents overcharging and exploding. You will pay more for this safety device and it is recommended that your battery have it. I would not buy a lithium battery without this safety device. Since you are sitting on top of the battery. A budget lithium battery might say it has one. My question is - if it does ,where was it made? Answer - most likely China. Like many things coming out of China there is a percentage of error that somethings will fail and eventually do. Don't skimp on the safety device. I went with AGM battery from Batteries plus as I have had good experiences with their batteries

Sky lift .. Excellent . I watched their video.

Braided lines are worth the investment. They will greatly reduce the need to replace your lines every 4 years like the Yamaha scheduled maintenance recommends. I have Galfers on my FZ1 and they are great. I plan on adding them to the Fj too. Some things that can greatly help you in making it easier. Buy some brake line wrenches as they are specially made for the brake line fasteners. The most aggravating things is rounding off the brake line fasteners whether removing them or tightening them. It's not a must , however when you round off the first one you will remember this posting.

Some things to consider when using a fuel stabilizer. Here in the PNW I don't use them as our winters are not long enough or cold enough. My FZ1 which was carbureted sat in the garage with the petcock on for the duration of winter which was about 4 months. I never experienced any issues when starting and running the bike . Most fuels are stable for 45-60 days. Unless you are going to winterize the bike for longer it might be a good idea to use one. Fuel stabilizers also have a shelf life. An unopened bottle is good for about two years. An opened bottle a lot less, as O2 begins to degrade the product once it is opened. So don't buy a huge jug thinking you'll be saving money. On fuel injected bikes, old fuel is less of an issue than on carbed bikes. My 1995 Chevy pick up with its Throttle body fuel injection sits for months with old fuel in the tank and has never had an issue.

Revzilla has a good video , explains the myths about winter storage.

When I bought my Fj09 it came with this huge Puig touring screen. Looked really odd, and it felt weird pushing the wind. Made the front end seem unstable. I like to ride fast. Put the stock screen on. Terrible. I'm 6'2" and the screen made the buffeting on my helmet more than I could stand. Even with it lowered to the lowest setting it was awful. I figured out that it needed to be lower by 2" at least. I bought a smoke tinted Puig racing windscreen. Its was 15" high. Set at the lowest setting. My helmet has clean air to go through and the is a slight burble against my shoulders. Almost cant tell.

only for 2016 and up.

Thanks oregonian, I'll check them out

Seriously though.. The best advise is to check your valves before or at the specific interval. Not after. Just because many replies on this thread have gone longer and still in spec. Doesn't mean yours will. Intakes wear less as they are cooled by incoming fuel and air. Exhausts get hot and wear due to seat recession. Once they are tight, they will begin to stretch. Because of the lack of lash between the valve stem and the shim/ bucket and cam lobe. They stretch because they are slamming shut. This accelerates the seat wear and they will eventually burn. The other side is that they can stretch and break. At that point your day is done. Your valves should make some noise. If it is quiet , they are probably getting tight.

Here is a pic of my FJ09

Hello, On my 3rd motorcycle since starting to ride in my late 40's. 2005 Kawasaki Ninja 500, 2001 Yamaha FZ1 , and now a 2015 FJ09. Currently 62 yrs Still have the FZ1, doesn't currently run. I bought the FJ09 to begin lots of touring. The FZ1 is fine, but the aging carbs , availability of parts and reliability of the bike is waning. Purchased this 2015 FJ09 with 3700 miles , Shad cases , top case, and touring windscreen for $8900. I put the stock screen back on. Replaced the 7 year old hard as bricks oem Dunlops. Did the 4000K service plus brake fluid change. I have replaced the oil drain plug with the VW one. Sawed off the little protection flange. I am adding a skid plate from T-rex racing. I will probably do a ECU re -flash from Ivan's.

I have recently purchased a 2015 FJ09 with 3800 miles. I have read a lot about the re -flashing the ECU. Which flash tuner are ones to stay away from?