redfjniner

fjindy66: I like these and have been eyeing them for a year now. Nice pics and abv. write up. I have one question regarding the gap you left at the end of the handlebars between the grips and the black spacer that screws into the bar ends. Why did you do this? Or why didn't you move the grips out to line up with the screw inserts?

riverfox: It would be nice if you LINKED your reference to who recommend removing the foam attached to the gas tank for better air flow. If you do this, why not write up a How To and post it. Thanks

Go ahead and log in in the SE, no body is watching or coming with a straight jacket to get you.

How do you keep that thing clean?

I tell everyone this, so don't feel like I'm picking on you. These engines are not like the old engines we used to get new. The manual doesn't say you can't spin it up or blast off, it does say not run in high RPM for a "prolonged" period. Blasting off is anything but "Prolonged". So go have fun, just don't burn it up to long, monitor the heat.

Great ride. Curves are 2,200 in that section of road from Morenci to Alpine.

Would love to hear how those other pads work. Thanks.

Around 12,000 miles I got a vibration and noise that wasn't there before. I was in the middle of a 4,000 mile ride and just lived with it. At 14,000 I changed the chain and the vibration and noise went away. I'm at 11,000 on the second chain and it hasn't returned. Just a thought.

What did you not like about that setup? My plan is to run Power 3CT (or whatever the latest is) on the front and PR4 on the rear. I ran PP 2CT front/ PR2 rear on my 'Busa for years and was quite happy with the combo. The stock Dunlops on the FJ9 just never felt as planted, and I really don't like the Dunlops in the rain... I felt the Dunlops were faster to respond and good feed back, while the PRs on the FJ were slow and vague. The same tires on my FJR are absolutly fantastic. You may be on to a good combination with the 3CT on the front, I haven't tried that. The 3CTs may provide a faster response. I may try that after I go thru the T30s. BTW. a friend of mine has 4 sets of PR2s in his garage because he ran the PR3s and 4s and didn't like them on his FJR, because that is what he ran on his FZ-1. I'm finding each bike to be different and what worked on one bike doesn't feel the same and therefore doesn't work on another, but you should always try what worked best on another bike, just to make sure. Good luck and keep us apraised.

You do not need to remove the tank. You need to remove the vent hoses, then just swing the tank 180 degrees around and set on the seats or on a towel placed where the seat was or on the passenger seat. This worked on the FZ and on the FJ when doing the TBS at 600m. You may have to undo the electrical connection.

I did the exact same. But after running the Michelins for 4000 K, I wasn't as impressed as I am with them on my FJR and went back to the Dunlop Roadsmart 2s on the next tire change. I installed PR-3 on rear and PR-4 on front.

Weight difference would have been negligible, mainly because the cat wasn't removed. They did this for the sound and maybe some hp improvement.

Haven't seen anyone do this or post of doing it. Maybe you could be the first and post pictures of the process. Seams like it would be an easy one, plug and play type install similar to the heated grips, but easier.

Loving mine also, ended up taking my homemade baffle out and leaving it that way for now. Nice to have the choice, and fun to experiment! BTW: I've now done 3 FJ-09's now, everyone happy with the sound and notice the power increase too! I believe leaving the cat in mellows the sound, and leaves just enough back pressure to not kill the bottom end, as your dyno results showed. Cheers, Ty You two still have my vote for best exhaust fix for least cost. Besides, without the actual work completed there really isn't much to talk about. For the rest of you, please do the work and show us how you did it and then give us the results. You might even make the How To Index.

Where are the pics? And will they clear that new windscreen you are about to make? :-/

I took off the grab handles too, but put them back on as it was harder to move the bike around with out them.

Why install factory heated grips when you are stuck using their choice of rubber (which is usually too hard)? There are plenty of aftermarket heated grip tape options that allow you to use your choice of grips. Because they are plug and play. Three settings, H, M, L with each having 10 levels to choose from. I set mine at 2, 4, and 6, as anything higher than 6 is too hot. And if I happen upon a day when the temps are in the low 20's and need to up the heat, all I have to do is change the 6 to 7, 8, 9 or 10. And I can do that on the fly from the menu tab on the left handlebar. That is why. And I like Yamaha grips.

Went back to the Roadsmart IIs. I put on my favorite tires on the FJR, Pilot Roads. PR-4 front and PR-3 rear. After 8000 miles I put on Roadsmarts again as I feel they are more lively and turn in better than the Pilot Roads.

Put on my 4th set of tires.

I just removed the Alum end piece from the handguards and used a shorter bolt and put it back on the end of the bars. Looks okay:

I took the hand guards off before I got home from my first ride. I couldn't lane split with those on. Stock screen had zero buzzing. The Touring one is just obscenely tall. I read about about using rubber washers. Cut it down.

I took off the hand guards because I didn't want the conflict with the windscreen. I do not regreat it. My windscreen is wider and I get no buffeting, it is fairly silent, no back pressure and doesn't bounce around on the mounts. Sorry, you can't buy it you have to make it. DIY Windscreen.

Can you guys do some measuring, Using my diagram as a reference? It would be nice to relate quite with relation to the height of the screen from the seat and the relation to the eyes. You will need a tape measure and a level to be accurate. Thanks, Ken.

Actually the height of the windscreen means little. The relation of the riders head in relation to the top of the windscreen mean everything. That number needs to be determined before you buy a windscreen. You need to measure the distance to the top of the windscreen from the seat and measure the distance from the seat to you eyes. If it is about 2" difference, then you have a good windscreen. There are other factors but this one is the most important if you are thinking about quiet and long distance touring, and if you want to see over the windscreen. I can tell you for a fact that if you allow air to flow under the windscreen on the FJ you will not have bad buffeting and no back pressure. Look at this:

Since you mentioned "perfect" I have to say that the windscreen I cut out of a FJR Touring screen sold by Yamaha, made by National, is perfect. After 230,000 miles on the FJR, I never had a perfect windscreen and I had three. This home made unit has been used on 4 different bikes and modified for each, so it isn't in perfect shape, so if that is as important as the results, it may not be for you. I have been using it now for [strong]15,000 miles[/strong] on the FJ and it is perfect for me at 5'-8". DIY Windscreen.