redfjniner

I do experience the same. I must have the windscreen down in lowest position and looking over the top so I can see the road in front of me, not just a 1/8 mile away, but the whole corner. I was able to play with this on my FJR and would always lower the windscreen when coming to corners that would go on for a mile or more. I also noticed that I must always put my sun visor up when doing corners, especially when sun is shining and there is a lot of contrast between the shadows and the sun lite sections. Dark sun shades block the clearity of the road surface. Very important when riding fast, to be able to see everything.

I tried to get some basis for comparison and to make it easier to understand why one windscreen works and another doesn't by doing a drawing that would allow us to uniformly measure and then compare. Here it is again:

Holy crap! It's trending on Reddit! A friend who lives in Spain, messaged me last night with that picture posted on Reddit. Holy crap is right.

Scary. Was the pic with you wrapped around a pole/post staged or did you end up like that? May I ask how much it cost to repair the bike after that?Not staged. I wrote it up 8 days later here. The bike settlement was $7300, including $1000 for accessories, like the FJR saddlebags. My neighbor just picked up a 2015 red just like mine for $7200 with 900 miles, and a Yamaha top box on a givi tail rack, lights and a few other things. The bike work just fine and will be getting new shocks soon (paid for from the settlement).

Look at my deer strike at 74mph. 250 ft slide, 50 ft tumble. No engine damage and just a little scratching, that is hardly noticeable. Higdonian cage with skid plate. I also had bar ends that stuck out as far as the OEM brush guards do. They are made of SS and a good 1/2" was removed. Sliders would not have faired as well in my opinion. Sliders work good for drops and minor falls at parking lot speeds.

Why do you want to do this to your bike? Understanding this can help me give you good advice.

Are you sure that the front fender won't bump the horn?

Friends don't let friends ride on Dunlops! Why would you say that? If you don't mean it, use the winking smily face:

Last summer I put on a new set of Angel GT's and went out for a ride to scrub them in. I stopped to get gas and noticed a large nail in the new rear tire, after only 30 miles. I used my Dynaplug to plug the hole and continued on with my 300 mile ride. I usually ride fairly aggressively, but took it easy on the plugged tire. When I'm leaned over ripping through some flowing sweepers at 80-90+ mph, I have to have 100% confidence in my tires. Some will say they have a few thousand miles on a plugged tire, I personally don't want to chance it. I ordered a new tire when I got home that afternoon. betoney: Please inform me, what is going to go wrong on that plugged tire at full throttle in the corner? Meaning riding at the pace you ride at.

I didn't replace the sprockets until the second chain. Fist chain went 14,500 miles, second went 17,550 miles and I streached that for 2K. I changed to EK chains with the second one meant for 150 hp bikes. We will see how long it lasts.

I got a whine when I replaced the OEM sprockets, along with install of my third chain.

I picked up the seat from another poster on this site. It wasn't even broken in, Lucky I was first. I have only used it around town and haven't put any real miles on it. It seams fine, don't know if it is an improvement or not, as you may have noted, I found the stock seat fine and used it for 38K without issue. You sit slightly lower with the Sargent and it is wider, like it was made for a guy with a big butt, I have a small butt and getting smaller as I get older. There is also a recess under the tailbone so that may help in long distance riding especially if you lean back like on a cruiser. I don't lean back so it may not do much of anything for me. It seams that Sargent does this on their cruiser saddles, and it works so they do it on all their saddles, but isn't necessary on a sport or sport touring bike unless you mount forward pegs and lean back. I haven't experienced sliding forward like I could do on the stock seat. It will be next summer before I put some real miles on the seat to break it in, so I will post up my impressions then.

Update: Just in case you wanted to know what happened to these wonderful saddlebags after the deer strike They didn't handle the crash very well. They still held the inner bags, and the inner bags didn't get trashed. The right side wore a hole in the cover and the left side received both the back and the cover breakage and are not repairable. So I looked on Ebay for two months for other FJR bags. At one point I tried to negotiate the purchase of a 2014 FJR 1300ES so that I could use the saddlebags on either bike, as they are the same color. When the deal fell through, I was lucky two days later to catch a post on Ebay for a pair of 2008 FJR saddlebags. They looked good in the pictures with a note that one had some scratches due to a drop. $450 including shipping. I jumped on it and was first to respond. Note: Shipping was $84. I feel this is a very good deal, even with the scratches. They came and one is in perfect condition, no scratches at all, and the other only shows if you are looking down towards the underside. I buffed them up and you can't even notice. The color is very close to the matt color on the fender and side panels only the bags are gloss. You can't tell they are a different color unless you clear coat the matt, at which time the fender is warmer and more bronze or browish, but if left matt, hard to tell. (I clear coated the damaged front fender, but didn't like the color as a gloss). I'm very happy with these and would recommend the 08 FJR or 09's as an alternative to the red FJR 14's on the red FJ's and as a very close use on the Gray FJ's.

Picked up two 2008 FJR saddlebags last week and put on the FJ. Color doesn't match but is close and almost un-noticable when looking at the color of the side panels and front fender. Matt vs. Gloss. I will not be painting these (and you know how much I like designing and painting my bags).

Higdonian Cages: After deer strike where I went down and slid for 250 feet then bike tumbled after hitting the shoulder, and the right side cage was damaged due to wear on the tubes, almost through the tube wall, Kris Higdon offered to replace that unit for me on his dime. He said he couldn't get better real life testing. Besides the fact the cages totally protected the engine and other parts, thereby keeping the cost below being TOTALED, the product does the job and looks good to.

Post your experience with a supplier, manufacturer or dealer that went out of their way to service you. Let us know what they did and how that became exceptional. Your subject should be the name of the product.

Ah ok. Both those make sense. I think it would look good though. Maybe combined with a dirt bike style front brake line mount and a rad guard? idk just curious.And, you still need a fender. I don't think the beak provides any protection of water spray coming up through the fork tube opening. Would be pretty messy in the rain.

Usually bags run around $250-400 to have prep'd & painted. I have painted saddlebags and top boxes with great success. Usually in the summer when it is hot and sunny outside. I recommend that you try painting them yourself. Paint will run you $45-80 and you can get in shaker cans. Get extra nozzels. You do not need to remove the old paint from the bags. Sand the covers with a 200-220 grit to provide a good rough surface. Spray with a automotive primer filler, 2 times. Sand with 300-400 grit. Paint the boxes the color you want. Here is the trick, do not try to cover in one coat, do light coats and do three coats. Remember, you will cover in three coats. Wait 10 minutes between coats. Follow that within 2-3 coats of clear coat immediately allowing 10-15 minutes between each of those. Let dry in warm room or in the sun. Don't worry about imperfections because nobody else will even notice. If you use a matt finish clear coat. Test it first. You might want to have a gloss clear handy or to use on the first and second coat of clear. Apply a light coat of matt for the final. Do some testing on this. Do some research and it won't be that hard. Use a grease, wax remover after sanding. Just remember, never start the spray aimed at the bag cover, aim away and bring the spay across the bag and stop after you pass the bag. Only direct the spray on spots with quick press/release, repeats or you will get runs. I would walk around the bag applying paint at the edges first, then spray the top, followed by doing the edges again lightly thereby completing one coat. You want to get as much paint on without runs. By applying coats in 10 min intervals the paint will not be totally dry but will be dry to touch and when the next coat is applied, it will soften and meld together. Good luck with what ever you do.

Back together, minus new windshield, saddlebags, topbox. Yahoo

For what it's worth - I looked into this and, at least based on parts diagrams, the FZ-10s connectors are not the same as the FJ-09. They're also obscenely expensive, at $125 per light http://www.yamahapart.com/oemparts/a/yam/5762d2cf87a86610f0f77648/flasher-light The Tenere lights, despite looking to be almost the same exact thing are apparently only around $55 per light - at least for fronts. The rears are $80 - not sure what the difference is that makes them more expensive. I'd like to replace my pumpkins and have been struggling with what to get - really like the look of these. Save $50 by buying here: http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/5762d2cf87a86610f0f77648/flasher-light

Mine also has no unusual noise at 12K miles. I hear a rattle for about 2 seconds after a cold start and then it quiets down. I figure it takes a few seconds to distribute the oil and that stops the rattle. I have been wondering if my FJ has already had some tensioner service because it has a white dot painted on it as shown in the photo. Does anyone know what the painted dot indicates? Mine is a very early production unit and it has a white dot. Means nothing.

The FJ will be out of comish into the middle of Oct. Its down due to a deer strike. I won't get the parts for a week or so and will be leaving on a 17 day ride to VA next Thurs. Easier to photograph now with out all the stuff on the bike.

38,000 and no unusual noise. Took it to the dealer before my trip at 35K and they listened and it was okay. It sounded better there then what I hear most of the time. So I am good for now. Not all FJs have this problem.

I ordered $2000 worth of parts to correct the deer damage. There's a half dozen other items that I am going to live with. Since I plan on putting at least 105K on this bike, a perfect this or a perfect that isn't going to make much difference, so the paint chips on the tank will be touched up with paint, and the minor crack in the rear black panel, behind the side bag bracket will be left or glued, and the scratches on the front forks between the triple trees will be left, as you can't see them. Those will save me enough to get a new rear Ohlin shock and cartridges for the fronts and a few other things.

Installed Rox Speed Antivibration Risers. I could live without these, as my hands rarely buzz to sleep, but I have noticed that 5-5.5K vibration and it can be bothersome. Someone else had a problem with the buzz and installed these 2" risers on the OEM mounts and noted no vibration at all. I had to try them, right? If I don't like them, as they are making the handlebar post have a rubber link, so they may make the handling vague, I will sell them. I will give it a go and let you all know what I think. I also used a 2" high mount left over from when I bought the GPR4 for my FZ 09. It worked perfect to keep the handlebars in the same location as stock, which I like. I went ahead and bought these from Rox Speed as they were only $3 more than Revzilla and Cycle Gear, and with free shipping (cut out the middle man).